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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | OK, I finally finished making my Bluetooth Dongle. (pictures below)
Thanks to Radioteacher, I didn't have to wait for the plug I ordered to arrive. He just happened to have one, and graciously let me use it. Thanks Paul!
The good news first.......
It works. I can now listen to everything that is coming through my stereo (AM/FM/WX/Ipod) using my bluetooth headset. (I have a Cardo Scala G4 but any bluetooth headset should work)
Compared to the Victory version, it's cheap. As best as I'm able to tell, the Victory Dongle and required harness is going to run about $200.00 or so. Mine is between 30 and 40 including S&H. I'm sure you can get it done for quite a bit less.
You can run a set of plug in earbuds with it, but they need to be fairly good quality as the line out connection just doesn't push much wattage. They will also need to have their own volume control.
The only bad new so far as I can tell is......
You have to build it yourself which means that you have to source your parts and spend a little time putting it together. I've done the hard part of that, and I'll put the sourcing info at the bottom of this. The actual assembly is pretty easy, but you will need to make three solder joints to wire in the audio plug.
You can't control the volume with the stereo. I'm not sure you're going to be able to do that with the Victory dongle either. You do have control over your bass and treble controls.
Obviously, you're going to need a bluetooth capable headset. I know it works with the Cardo system. Bluetooth is a standard, so it should work with any bluetooth headset out there that complies with the A2DP (stereo) standard. You can find bluetooth headsets with noise reducing earbuds on ebay for less than $20.00 if you don't want the full blown intercom system.
There are a LOT of words here but the project is actually pretty simple. Really, all you're doing is putting two plugs on the ends of a group of three wires. From there, it's basically just plug and play.
****Before going to the trouble of putting this together, disassembling your dash, and so on, I highly recommend that you test your bluetooth dongle with the headset(s) you plan to use. Make sure they sync. To test, I just plugged it directly into an Ipod to make sure it synced and worked with my helmet headset. Once you sync it, you generally don't have to do it again.****
Here's what you'll need if you want to put it together.
1. Bluetooth stereo transmitter dongle. I bought mine from http://www.bearworkscorp.com/ through ebay but there are quite a few other versions available.
2. A 26 pin automotive grade plug. You can order from http://www.mouser.com
a. 1 ea. part number: 571-3-1437290-7 TE Connectivity Automotive Connectors 26P PLUG 4 ROW
b. 5 ea. part number: 571-3-1447221-3 TE Connectivity Automotive Connectors S-SEAL SKT 18-16
3. 1/8" in line stereo jack from Radio Shack. You could order it from Mouser too, and it would probably be cheaper, but I don't have the part number.
4. 3 28" pieces of 20 or 22gauge wire. You can get it at radio shack in a three roll bundle of red, green, and black. Doesn't really matter what color though. You could get away with just about any 20 or 22 gauge wire you have laying around. Stranded wire is going to be more durable, but you could get away with solid wire like they use for telephone and thermostat wiring.
5. Various bits of heat shrink tubing. Optional, but I like to use it as strain relieve and to keep the harness neat.
So, here's what you do.........
Decide where you want the blue tooth dongle to live. Mine is going to live under the cover directly in front of the seat. It's easy enough to get to if I need to. I can also run a wired headset from there if I want. I built a little power supply for the dongle that will live there too. Building the power supply is fairly easy if you're fairly good at precision soldering. If you're not, or just don't want to be bothered, you'll either have to periodically recharge the dongle, or buy a cigarette lighter USB power supply adapter and figure out where to plug it in. You could put the dongle in the trunk and use that supply if you want. Of course, you would have to run the wiring there. It's up to you.
If you want to know how to make a power supply for it shoot me a PM and I'll share that with you too. It will cost less than $10.00 in parts but fits under the cover. It draws power through the same plug that hooks up to the radio so you never have to worry about charging or turning on the dongle. Power is supplied when you turn the ignition key to run or accessory.
1. Build your harness.
A. Put on the connectors.
B. Strip about 1/8" of insulation from the end of each wire.
1. Remove one of the little silver connectors from the strip, lay the wire in until the insulation touches the crimp wings. Unless you have a professional crimper (not the little yellow handle plier looking POS you got at Autozone) you're better off using your thumbnail or a small diagnal cutter to start the crimp. fold one side over all the way, then using a very small screwdriver, push down on the end of the wing, trying to get it to dig in to the wire strands a little. Be gentle, it's her first time! Don't overdo it. Use the same technique to fold the other side over on top. Now you can use your little yellow handled autozone crimper. Be very gently, but work around the crimp trying to get it as reasonably round as you can. Make sure that when you're done, you have closed the crimper all the way, using the 22 gauge position.
2. Use the same technigue for the set of wings closest to the top. If you look at them closely, you'll notice that these are not supposed to lay on top of each other. They lay side by side. Other than that, do it the same way you did the first crimp. These crimps have to be pretty round because the need to fit in to the small holes in the plug.
3. 1 down, 2 more to go!
C. Put on the audio jack.
1. Strip about 1/8" - 1/4" inch from the other ends of the wires.
2. Tin the wires (touch the end of the wire with your iron, touch your solder to the wire near the insulation. The solder should wick up to the iron. don't overdo it.
3. If you are going to use heat shrink as a stress relief, slide it over the wire now. I used two different diameters. A smaller one that fits over the skinny part of the audio plug cover, and a bigger one that fits over the larger part of it.
4. Slide the wire through the audio plug cover. Don't forget to do this or you'll have to unsolder everything and do it all over!
5. Thread the tinned tip of the ground wire (I used black) through the little hole on the bottom center of the plug. Make sure that the insulation goes all the way to the hole so that you can crimp it later.
6. Thread the other two wires (I used red and green) through the little holes on the small terminals. These are your left and right audio wires. Pull them tight so the insulation is touching the terminals.
7. Solder your three wires to the audio plug. Be careful not to use too much heat, or take too much time or you can melt the insulator on the audio plug. My technique....make sure the iron is fully heated. Melt a small drop of solder on the tip of the iron. Touch the tip of the iron to the end of the wire. Touch the solder to the inside of the terminal and wire. The solder will flow towards the iron. As soon as you see the solder flow up the wire, stop!
8. Crimp the three wires into the audio plug. This isn't as critical as the other crimps, but you still want to get a good crimp or all your work will be for nothing when the jack falls off and bounces down the highway.
D. Assemble the connector.
1. Press fit the silver contacts into the plug.
a. The common wire (I used black) goes in to #11 Left goes in to #4 and Right goes in to #5. It doesn't really matter which is left or right unless your are very anal.
b. Push each wire in as far as it will go. It will seem to stop before it's all the way in. Keep pushing but don't break a wire. Go a little at a time. You will be able to clearly see the silver tip of the connector at the opening of the plug.
2. There are two little white buttons on one side of the plug and one long white button on the other side.. Once you have pushed the wires in all the way, push the little buttons in. If you have the wires in all the way, you will feel the buttons positively snap in to position. If it doesn't snap in, you don't have one or more wires in all the way.
E. Have a beer. I highly recommend Moose Drool, if you can find it. If not, I'm sorry for ya!
2. Remove the radio. There are links and manuals available that tell you how to do it. It takes about 5 minutes and is very simple. Just be careful when removing the gauge bevel. Also, it's a good idea to lay a towel or something on the left side of the fairing to keep from scratching anything. You don't have to completely remove the console. Just remove all the screws and allen bolts. Lay the console on it's left side, protecting it with a towel. Be careful that you don't accidentally unplug any of the switches at the front. They come off pretty easy. If they do, just remember to plug them back in later.
3. Install the harness.
A. Look under the radio and you'll see a big bunch of wires plugged in to the radio. Just beside it, there is a socket. It's might be covered with a rubber cover. Remove the cover.
B. The plug that you assemble will only fit one way. Install it with the little catch facing you. It should slide right in like it's been made to be there. (It was!)
C. Route your harness down to where you're dongle is going to be. For me, under the panel just in front of the seat. It's long enough so that I can run it up between the seat and cover if I ever want to plug in a wired headset.
4. Turn the key to ACC and turn the radio on, make sure it's all working to include your Ipod, XM, etc., then turn your speakers off. The magic is about to happen!
5. Plug your Bluetooth transmitter dongle in and turn it on.
6. Test it! Make sure the headset you are going to be using is on. You should have already synced it, so it should automatically connect. Make sure everything is working. If you have an Ipod, XM, CD, 8 Track, or whatever, try them all. Remember, the volume control is not going to work. It's probably best to just turn your speakers off.
a. Now is a good time to enjoy another of those Moose Drools while you're jamming to your favorite old music in high quality stereophonic sound. MORE COWBELL! And right in the center channel where cowbells are supposed to be!
b. Show it off to your wife, girlfriend, husband, boyfriend, kids, neighbor. She's going to ask if it works with hers. Right now, no. but you could probably install a "Y" and add another dongle. But really, she's better off with her own Ipod, right? Offer her a Moose Drool.
7. Almost done. Put everything back together and do another test. If everything is good, you're done!
Edited by cchristo 2011-10-15 12:34 AM
(Bluetooth stereo Dongle.jpg)
(Bluetooth stereo dongle 2.jpg)
(26 pin plug.jpg)
(26 pin eng drawing.jpg)
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 Bluetooth stereo Dongle.jpg (20KB - 47 downloads)
Bluetooth stereo dongle 2.jpg (18KB - 29 downloads)
26 pin plug.jpg (8KB - 24 downloads)
26 pin eng drawing.jpg (27KB - 25 downloads)
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Tourer
Posts: 307
Columbia, SC | Thanks for the write-up. glad to see it's all working well! Quick question (more for clarification...) The audio power is not very strong...but running it rhough a system that has it's OWN volume control will work fine? And the volume cannot be controlled through the radio controls, it just comes out at a medium level? Or does it come out at whatever the volume was set at BEFORE you turned the speakers off? |
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | sfalexi - 2011-10-15 5:18 PM
Thanks for the write-up. glad to see it's all working well! Quick question (more for clarification...) The audio power is not very strong...but running it rhough a system that has it's OWN volume control will work fine? And the volume cannot be controlled through the radio controls, it just comes out at a medium level? Or does it come out at whatever the volume was set at BEFORE you turned the speakers off?
The audio signal is actually the stereo pre-amp out and is set at the factory to match the input requirements of the stereo power amp. As such, it's not really a matter of low, medium or loud. It doesn't matter at all what you have the volume level set at, there is simply no effect. The bikes volume control actually controls the power amplifier output and has 0 effect on the pre-amp output. Your headset volume will be controlled by the volume control of your headset.
Bluetooth headsets (Sena, Cardo, and all the others) have a built in amplifier and volume control so you just control the volume that way. It works great.
If you are not going to use a bluetooth connection, but rather just use regular earbuds, the power is pretty low and you're going to need a good quality set. It will also need to have it's own volume control. Keep in mind that most of these earbud sets do not have a built in amplifier so the volume control is not going to "add" volume, if that makes any sense.
Last, if you're using something like the J&M Integrater, it should work perfectly. I don't have one, and haven't tested with one, but I believe it has a built in amplification system. Instead of using a bluetooth transmitter you could plug it directly in to the input of the Integrater. You should be able to control the volume using the J&M Integrator system.
I'm not so good at technical writing and my write up seems overly complicated. It's really a very simple harness that needs to be constructed in order to make it work.
Edited by cchristo 2011-10-16 12:01 AM
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | I should also add that if you're using the Cardo or Sena systems, in addition to listening to your stereo, you'll be able to make and recieve phone calls, hear directions from your bluetooth capable GPS and communicate with your passenger. Additionally, the most current Cardo and Sena models allow you to communicate with another bike.
The Cardo also has a jack that allows the passenger to plug in an Ipod or any other music source as well as make and recieve phone calls. The Sena probably does too, but I don't know for sure as I have the Cardo G4.
Edited by cchristo 2011-10-16 12:19 AM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| Clearly this won't work if you already have the CD changer / XM radio harness, or another option plugged into that spare connector on the radio assembly. You would need a passthru connection to maintain factory/dealer installed options. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | If you have the harness XXX143 (because you have the CB/Intercom, CD Player or XM parts) you can tap the correct three wires that plug into the 26 pin connector with Posi-taps.
Very nice write up. Thanks for taking the time to write this up.
Ride Safe |
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | radioteacher - 2011-10-17 10:07 AM
If you have the harness XXX143 (because you have the CB/Intercom, CD Player or XM parts) you can tap the correct three wires that plug into the 26 pin connector with Posi-taps.
Very nice write up. Thanks for taking the time to write this up.
Ride Safe
You're welcome, and thanks again for the plug. Mine came in, so we'll need to meet again so I can give the new one to you.
I've never seen the XXX143 plug. If you have, say, the XM, but don't have the CB/Intercom, do they just leave the line out pin holes empty, or is it already pigtailed? I'm really thinking about adding XM now that I can listen to high quality sound while riding at (and well above) highway speed.
I've had the opportunity to do a little ride testing with it over the weekend and it works great.
I discovered one glitch, but it's not a function of the mod. Bluetooth technology can be a bit "cranky". Occasionally, the headset and transmitter won't automatically reconnect after you turn the headset off and leave the transmitter on. Not a big deal, I just have to switch the transmitter off and then on again. I think if I were able to remove the battery from the transmitter it would probably work perfectly since I could power it on and off with the ignition key. I can't figure out how to remove the battery without destroying the transmitter though.
A fairly minor issue, but it does mean that I'm not going to be able to just leave it under the panel in front of the seat and forget about it. I currently have it in the little glove box so it's easy to get to.
Other than that, it works great. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | The cable that Victory sells for the 2008 and 2009 Vision to connect the XM Module, CB/Intercom and CD Player is Part number 2876143 called an "Audio Harness" in the catalog. It has all of the connectors to connect any of the optional parts on it.
For the other year models it is a different cable part number because of changes and enhancements Victory made.
This cable has the 26 pin connector on it that plugs into the radio.
Can you make the cable longer so that you can put the cubby hole near the Rear Shock air fitting under the left saddle bag? Then it will be out of the way and assessable.
Ride Safe |
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | radioteacher - 2011-10-17 9:04 PM
Can you make the cable longer so that you can put the cubby hole near the Rear Shock air fitting under the left saddle bag? Then it will be out of the way and assessable.
Ride Safe
The ABS module is in that cubby on my '11, but there is a little empty area below it that might work. Putting it there would free up a little space in the glove box. |
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Fountain Inn, SC United States | Great write up! I've added it to the Vision Tech-Reference section. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 71
Willmar, MN | Great write up but I have a question...does this allow the push to talk to still function? The CB needs that to work and also I usually ride in a lot of wind and find that the PTT is easier to use than the VOX for the intercom. |
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | rf43mn - 2011-10-23 7:53 AM
Great write up but I have a question...does this allow the push to talk to still function? The CB needs that to work and also I usually ride in a lot of wind and find that the PTT is easier to use than the VOX for the intercom.
I don't have the CB/intercom, so I haven't done any testing with the it.
If you already have the Victory intercom and headsets, this dongle will not replace your or your passengers wired headset for the purpose of intercom/cb use.
It should work with with any aftermarket bluetooth intercom (Senna, Cardo, etc.) or any bluetooth stereo headset. You can also use the harness to integrate an aftermarket hardwired intercom/cb such as the J&M into your factory stereo system.
Hope this helps.
Edited by cchristo 2011-10-23 10:10 AM
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Tourer
Posts: 416
Prairie City, IA United States | Hopefully you have hit on what I need, I have been looking for a while.
How does the dongle connect to the Scala system? Do you pair it without entering a code? I am ready to try this on a Tom Tom GPS unit. It is bluetooth already but it requires you to enter a code and the Scala doesn't have a way to enter any codes. |
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Tourer
Posts: 416
Prairie City, IA United States | Hopefully you have hit on what I need, I have been looking for a while.
How does the dongle connect to the Scala system? Do you pair it without entering a code? I am ready to try this on a Tom Tom GPS unit. It is bluetooth already but it requires you to enter a code and the Scala doesn't have a way to enter any codes. |
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | Both the Scala and the BT transmitter come with
directions on how to pair, but there is no code required.
I don't think you will be able to pair the Scala
(or any other system) to a GPS and your stereo at the
same time. If you have an audio out jack on the Tom-Tom
you should be able to inject that signal into the bikes audio
system. It should then be broadcast through the dongle
along with everything else. My garmin doesn't have an
Audio out jack so I haven't been able to try it. I'm out
of town right now, but when I get back tonight I can
look up the pin numbers you would use to make it work.
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Cruiser
Posts: 232
| TRY to go to webb site for 26pin plug says no such thing. Do you mke these and sell them? |
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | Trell,
All the sourcing info I used is in my post at the top of this page. Click the mouser website link and put the part numbers in their search window. The parts will come up. I just tried it.
I made mine, but I had not planned on making them to sell. I would need to charge about $75.00 to make it worth my while, and that would not include the actual Bluetooth transmitter which just plugs in at the end. Altogether though, it would still be about half of what it's going to cost from the mothership.
They are not difficult to make. The hard part was just figuring out what could be done, then finding the parts to make it work. The actual assembly and installation takes between a 1/2 to 1 hour from start to finish. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 7
Coquitlam, B.C. Canada | Great instructions.
Was waiting for someone to figure it out, before I invested in the Cardos .
Just want to say THANKS to you, and all the others that contribute to this web site with all the detail that is needed to do the job.
Thanks again...
MIke |
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Cruiser
Posts: 241
Monrovia, Ca | Just finished building mine and it works great. I bought a 3 foot 1/4" M/F cable From a electronics store and cut off the male end. I then stripped the ends to connect to the pins. With this set up, I did not solder anything. I routed mine into the glove box on the left where my phone connector is. I had a powelet cable with a USB end, so If I need to, I can recharge the dongle. My I phone and the dongle both fit in the compartment.
I have the Scala G4's. Pairing was no problem. The dongle I got was a Nolan I bought on line for $18.00
Thanks to those who came up with this mod.
Edited by LA Victory Rider 2012-01-20 11:29 PM
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | Glad to hear it LA! I use the same transmitter and have had no problems beyond the typical Bluetooth glitches you get due to the technology.
Good idea using a cable pre-configured with a male plug...but I think you used a 1/8", not a 1/4".
I notice that it takes about 30 - 60 seconds to go back to playing music after a phone call interuption ( I have an Iphone too). It seems like a long time, but I don't have a comparison. Is that about what it takes for yours to reconnect?
Edited by cchristo 2012-01-21 12:52 AM
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | lstayner - 2011-11-22 8:21 PM
Hopefully you have hit on what I need, I have been looking for a while.
How does the dongle connect to the Scala system? Do you pair it without entering a code? I am ready to try this on a Tom Tom GPS unit. It is bluetooth already but it requires you to enter a code and the Scala doesn't have a way to enter any codes.
I just re-read the Scala online manual. With the most current Scala update (3.0) you can pair both a GPS/cellphone and an audio source (the dongle). You have to pair the cell phone to the GPS. The scala recognizes the GPS and the cell is actually routed through the GPS.
The GPS may need to have a code entered, not the Dongle. It's usually 0000, but you would have to check the manual for your particular GPS model. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 241
Monrovia, Ca | Yes it was 1/8" pin. I was expecting it to be trouble than it was. I just took my time in making the pin connections. Even that was easy The rest was a piece of cake.
I have not yet tried the phone, back to music test. Just had tested to see if it worked in general. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 79
| I wonder if it's possible to use 2 of these with a Y cable to play the same music on 2 Sena headsets? |
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | I thought about that, but then I figured that it would probably be a better deal for the passenger to just use her own Ipod or smartphone. With an Ipod, she can use either a 1/8" stereo cable or a bluetooth transmitter to play whatever music she wants to listen to through her own headset. With a smartphone, she can just use it's own built in Bluetooth capability.
I don't know about the Senna, but my Cardo headsets also have a built in FM radio so she has access and control of that too.
That being said, there is no reason why you can't put a Y cable on it with separate transmitters If you just have to listen to the same things at the same time. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 79
| I'm going to give it a go. It's always good to have options. I will let you know how it works.
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | hulign - 2012-02-01 8:49 PM
I'm going to give it a go. It's always good to have options. I will let you know how it works.
There's no reason why it won't work. Let us know how it turns out though! |
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Tourer
Posts: 401
| Bluetooth from your phone to your radio.
This is not a cheap solution, but a very reasonable one. Get an iPod/iPhone plug ($50 or $99 depending on model year) and a fipo bluetooth adapter ($30-$45). And just plug them in. You can't control the phone from the radio, but you can pipe music to the radio. The sound is ok, and can be prone to interferance.
I spent $70 for my set up.
Edited by sgiacci 2012-02-06 2:17 PM
(2011-06-25_16-23-21_124.jpg)
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2011-06-25_16-23-21_124.jpg (46KB - 11 downloads)
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | sgiacci - 2012-02-06 2:15 PM
Bluetooth from your phone to your radio.
This is not a cheap solution, but a very reasonable one. Get an iPod/iPhone plug ($50 or $99 depending on model year) and a fipo bluetooth adapter ($30-$45). And just plug them in. You can't control the phone from the radio, but you can pipe music to the radio. The sound is ok, and can be prone to interferance.
I spent $70 for my set up.
I might be missing something here but, would you not achieve the same exact result by just plugging the iphone into the 1/8" stereo plug that comes standard on the bike, and select the AUX input? Or, if you have the Ipod cord, you can just plug the Iphone in to that and select the IPOD input? It would eliminate the interference you mentioned too.
What the dongle (this one or the factory version) does is allow you to turn off your speakers and stream everything (AM/FM/WX, XM, GPS, Ipod, Mp3 player, etc, that plays through your stereo into your bluetooth enabled helmet, communications system, or earbuds. |
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Tourer
Posts: 401
| cchristo - 2012-02-06 6:01 PM
sgiacci - 2012-02-06 2:15 PM
Bluetooth from your phone to your radio.
This is not a cheap solution, but a very reasonable one. Get an iPod/iPhone plug ($50 or $99 depending on model year) and a fipo bluetooth adapter ($30-$45). And just plug them in. You can't control the phone from the radio, but you can pipe music to the radio. The sound is ok, and can be prone to interferance.
I spent $70 for my set up.
I might be missing something here but, would you not achieve the same exact result by just plugging the iphone into the 1/8" stereo plug that comes standard on the bike, and select the AUX input? Or, if you have the Ipod cord, you can just plug the Iphone in to that and select the IPOD input? It would eliminate the interference you mentioned too.
What the dongle (this one or the factory version) does is allow you to turn off your speakers and stream everything (AM/FM/WX, XM, GPS, Ipod, Mp3 player, etc, that plays through your stereo into your bluetooth enabled helmet, communications system, or earbuds.
What you missed was us non-iPod/iPhone owners who have Android phones for our music, GPS, and so on. Since there isn't an adaptor for us, the Bluetooth allows us to run the music into the Vision Radio while allowing us to keep the phone charged through the USB. Yes I can use the 1/8" plug, but some mounts make it difficult to use both plugs at the same time, and the bigger phones are really cramped in the glove box with both plugs too.
One other really good use for you setup is a low level output for people who want to add a high power amplifier and speakers.
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Cruiser
Posts: 79
| cchristo - 2012-02-01 9:57 PM
hulign - 2012-02-01 8:49 PM
I'm going to give it a go. It's always good to have options. I will let you know how it works.
There's no reason why it won't work. Let us know how it turns out though!
The 2 dongles are on the way. Will try them with just a generic Y cable first.
Fingers crossed! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 79
| Just to let everyone know the dongles from http://www.bearworkscorp.com/ work just fine off of a Y cable. So you can share the same music source to both headsets that way. Now I just need to hardwire it all.
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | hulign - 2012-02-16 12:39 PM
Just to let everyone know the dongles from http://www.bearworkscorp.com/ work just fine off of a Y cable. So you can share the same music source to both headsets that way. Now I just need to hardwire it all.
Good to know. Thanks for the update. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 79
| A fresh update.... After a longer ride we noticed the music cutting out at times. Couldn't seem to reproduce it by just moving things around. Might have been interference from having 2 of them side by side? I didnt even take time to troubleshoot it. We talked over the issue and decided to bite the bullet, I ordered a complete Starcom1 digital setup. I can always add Bluetooth to it later but the reviews and info I could find gave it pretty high marks. Unfortunately my job requires I answer the phone or at least hear it and pull over to return the call. A corded system with priority settings makes good sense. Not having to charge it is a bonus. I do still plan on building the link for the stock stereo. So now I have 2 Bluetooth dongles and the parts to make 2 patch cables. Maybe someone can use them for this project. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 14
Billings, Montana | Just found out after adding the RamMount for our TomTom Go920 that when TomTom came out with the Rider series they disabled the headset bluetooth compatability on all their regular gps units. As soon as you plugged in for an update the compatability was gone as it was deleted with the update. I am about as handy with a soldering iron as a pogo stick in quicksand. I would like to know if anyone who has built the dongle setup to work with the Scala headsets would be interested in building one for us. I would plug the TomTom into the stereo input and not be using a phone. I would certainly be willing to pay for your time as well as materials. Thanks in advance. |
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | For those of you who have been following this thread, and have sent me messages with questions. My apologies. I haven't been on the forum for a very long time. Lots of stuff going on. In any case, I received a lot of questions about the built in power supply. I've ended up actually not using it. Not because it doesn't work, but because I've just not had time to wire it in. If interested, you can build one with these directions http://browse.feedreader.com/c/Electronic_Schematic_Circuit_Diagram...
All of the parts can be found at Radio Shack. I used a 3/4"X1" by about 1/4" thick piece of aluminum channel for the heat sink and body.
I now just have a dual cig lighter to USB adaptor that I run the dongle and my GPS off of. |
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