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Visionary
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Ruskin, Fl | So last Thursday I hit the back brake making a slow turn. Bike dies and without power I activate the tip overs. Hit the starter and the lights go out. Than they come back on. I finally get it started with a jump and get home. Next day I check the terminals, all tight. Battery fully charged. I hit the start and it drops below 10 volts. OK, 2 year old battery so I just go get a new one at Advanced auto cause it's a half mile away. Starts right up and life is good. Eight days later I came out of Hooters and bike doesn't have enough to crank. I get a jump and ride home. 14+ volts the whole 45 min ride. Today I pull the cover and check all the connections. Not very tight. I tighten everything and button the bike up all happy I found an issue. Turn the key on and hit the started. Drops to less than 10 volts. WTF! New battery and it was on charge all night. I pull the battery and bring it back. Tests bad. I just finished putting new battery number 2 in and I hit the starter, same thing. Battery light comes on and drops to less than 10. Any ideas? I guess I jump it and try and make the dealer on Monday. Thanks. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1340
Gainesville Fl Home of the Gators | It's a real bitch to do, but reach under the console until you can put your finger BELOW the ignition switch, and push up on it. There was a recall on early 08's that was for the electrical portion of the switch dropping down, and conacts failing. Caused all kinds of crazy shit to go on |
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | Thanks Kevin, I'll try that tomorrow. Could that relay or breaker that the positive cable goes to be bad? There was a recall on that too. |
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Visionary
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Brighton, TN | What you speak of are exactly the problems associated with the key switch. It happened to me, I speak from experience and I agree with kevinx |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| cw1115 - 2011-12-17 5:00 PM
Thanks Kevin, I'll try that tomorrow. Could that relay or breaker that the positive cable goes to be bad? There was a recall on that too.
Yes, that's what it was on my friends bike, although he didn't pay attention to voltage issues, and it didn't kill the battery. But, his bike would just die on him or not start at random times.... especially when warm and hot. Was a faulty $8 relay.
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | OK, I called the local dealer and the ignition switch recall had been done. I pulled it apart to look at it. When I took the 3 bolts out and lifted the ifnition switch a piece fell off. I guess pressure was holding this together. I am assuming this is wrong?
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Visionary
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New Bohemia, VA | No, that is right, those two pieces is what holds pressure up to keep the contacts together. Not the best solution but apparently it works, for most. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | Thanks everybody. I put another layer of double stick foam tape. We'll see what happens. I am unable to duplicate the problem. I even tugged on the wires with the switch out. We'll see what happens, I be riding about 100 miles tonight with several stops.
Edited by cw1115 2011-12-19 2:02 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | I believe it to be an internal failure. My original 2008 early production key switch is still good. However, when they added the trunk and a new set of key switches is when I started having the funky and intermittent kill overs. Unable to make the switch misbehave by monkeying with it. However, put original switch back in and problems solved.
Agree with above that was the Recall fix for the switch. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | Well, did it fix it? |
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | OK, been 2 weeks and several hundred miles without a problem. This is what I think happened. OEM battery went bad, shorted cell or whatever. I bought an Autocraft for convenience. 8 days later more problems. I brough the new battery back and it tested bad. I think the second new battery just needed a good charge. I finally got the trickle charger to charge constant overnight (5-10 hours per the manual) and life is good again.
Thanks for the help!
Michael |
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