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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Spend almost two frikken hours trying to adjust this damned belt on my Vision today. It developed too much play @ 10 pounds of measurement (it had almost 2" of play at the tightest part of the belt).
Not a huge issue getting the belt tension right; although the damned side plates that you use to align the marks on the swing arm kept moving; every time I started to torque the axle nut down.
The real issue is trying to get the belt to track to the inside of the pulley during forward wheel rotation. I did succeed but the tire was WAY off in angle within the swing arm, and the alignment marks were seriously different from each other. No way am I running my rear tire in that cockeyed attitude.
Guess I'll just live with the belt tracking to the right of the pulley. I need to get a 1 1/16 crowfoot attachment as well for my torque wrench; I can't get a 1 1/16" socket and the torque wrench head on the axle nut because of the mufflers close proximity to it.
Wish the Vision had shaft drive instead. Or hell, even a chain.... stoopid belt alignment crap pisses me off.... |
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Cruiser
Posts: 251
Mechanicsville, VA United States | Was it making noise? |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Nope, it wasn't making noise. Just had too much play; I could feel the belt "snatching" between abrupt throttle letoff and application. |
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Tourer
Posts: 494
Akron Ohio area | Belt adjustment on Victory's are sensitive to say the least.
If the belt is wet, wait 24 hour before adjusting.
If the belt is hot, wait until it cools down a few hours.
Note that the belt tightens up as it warms up.
As far as your perceived belt lash, I doubt it.
Pre 2011 Victory's had gear lash in all gears and starting in 2011 only 5th gear still has "lash". |
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | I gave up trying to get the belt to track to the inside on my 08s. Trust me, I spent a lot of time trying. While changing the oil for the first time on my '13 at 562 miles I noticed the the belt also tracks to the outside. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 802
| Hi Will,
I've adjusted that belt a million times or so it seems. Here is the process I use that has worked perfectly. Maybe it will help. It takes me about 30 minutes total.
I put the bike on my Handy lift and then jack the rear wheel up.
Loosen the rear axle using a 27 mm or 1 1/16 box end wrench. You're correct that a socket won't easily fit unless you remove one of the shock or link bolts but it isn't necessary.
Set the belt tension at 32 mm or 1.25" with 10 lbs of force with both axle adjuster's hash marks at the same location.
Snug the axle nut slightly.
Spin the wheel FORWARD and adjust only the left side adjuster until the belt tracks to the inner flange (left side). Make sure the adjusters are snug up against the swing arm. I do this by hitting the tire with my hand and shaking the adjuster nuts to make sure they're snug.
Once the belt is tracking to the inner flange reverse the spin so the wheel is rotating backwards.
Slowly tighten the left side adjuster a quarter of a turn at a time with the wheel rotating BACKWARD until the belt just barely starts to track toward the outside flange (right side). As soon as it starts to move (you can see a slight bit of the pulley between the flange and the belt) STOP. This is where it wants to be. While pushing on the wheel to keep the adjusters up against the swing arm, tighten the axle nut with your wrench.
If you are going to torque the axle nut do it now. Do not torque the adjuster nuts even though the book says to. If you do you will move the wheel and have to start all over again.
Now, I am a torquing fool. I have three torque wrenches and torque everything EXCEPT this axle nut. I found the same thing you did in that the torque wrench head and socket foul on the muffler. I found that after practicing a few times I can get the rear axle nut sufficiently torqued just by using my Craftsman wrench which is about 13" long. I watched the Vic tech do it that way and scoffed to myself that he was an amateur until I got home and tried it myself. I've had three bikes plus my buddy's and have not ever had a problem tightening this nut by hand. Of course YMMV.
You will find that the belt will most likely track to the outside. Don't fret over it. Use the above procedure and it will be fine. I picked this procedure up from Bob Vonvett who is the Polaris service rep. It works, is easy and repeatable.
BTW, my hash marks are NEVER exactly the same after adjusting the belt correctly. Just the fact that they are cut into the washer which moves all over the place discounts any notion that the marks are accurate. I think they are nothing more than a reference. On all my Visions I was able to ride no-handed on a flat road with no crown straight as an arrow. If you're really curious as to how aligned the wheels are you can always check it with a piece of string.
Marc
Edited by marcparnes 2012-12-01 6:52 PM
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Central Wisconsin | Marc, Nice belt adjustment write-up. You should post it in Vision Tech Reference.
I too use a long 27mm wrench on the axle bolt. I tested the torque and was about 2 lbs over torque spec not bad for free hand. Last time I adjusted my belt I used a couple bungee's to keep tension on the left adjuster when I was adjusting. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1340
Gainesville Fl Home of the Gators | Hate to take the complication out of things, but right side sets tension, and left side aligns. Worry more about not tracking to either side; then about exactly where it tracks
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Hi Marc,
Thank you for your detailed write-up. I did many of the things that you mentioned; especially about keep the tire pushed in against the adjusters during the adjustment.
I did find a 1 1/16" crowsfoot wrench on Ebay today for 12.00 shipped. That will work on getting a torque stick on that axle nut. Currently, I am "guesstimating" 60ft lbs of torque by hand, and did take the bike on a good hard run; to ensure that the axle is staying in place (which it is). |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | kevinx - 2012-12-01 9:27 PM
Hate to take the complication out of things, but right side sets tension, and left side aligns. Worry more about not tracking to either side; then about exactly where it tracks
You know... If I thought about it the way you just described it above Kevin; it may have been easier. Tomorrow morning I'm going to take a stab at it again; and this time just concentrate of the right adjuster first for tension, and then the left adjuster for tracking...
...instead on endlessly bouncing from the left and right sides of the swingarm; while on my belly; muttering liked a lunatic.
Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.
Edited by willtill 2012-12-01 8:40 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | So I took Kevin's and Marc's advice. I did get the belt to track in the middle of the pulley without an awkward positioned wheel; the marks on the swing oppose each other by almost 1-2 notches.
After taking it for a good run later, the belt again has moved to the right. Also, a very slight moaning (I've heard it worse before when the belt was tight) is heard again at very slow speed maneuvering; due to the belt being a little tighter (it's about 1.5" of free play at cold, rather than 1.26" ) but that's a hell of a lot better than 2" previously.
I'll live with it, I guess. The bike tracks well, there's no discernible wear on the right side of the belt and I don't feel that slight "jerk" anymore from the excessive play in the belt.
It's is indeed a sensitive adjustment; as was remarked earlier by Bigfoot.
Edited by willtill 2012-12-02 3:28 PM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | I tried to get the bike up in the air yesterday with my jack. I got it up there enough to turn the rear wheel but it wasn't even close to being steady. Short of buying one of those skid plates (which I may do at some point in the future), is there any good way of lifting the bike? I'd like to check the belt tracking. I read a post about lift points but I couldn't find those on my bike ('12 Vision). Maybe the belt is the reason for the whine at slow speeds. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1340
Gainesville Fl Home of the Gators | Run a strap through the V of the engine and sinch it down tight to the jack |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | Thanks. I have straps that might be short enough. It was way too wobbly to lift it up more than a few inches or for very long. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| I think you may be under the misunderstanding that the belt is supposed to track down the center of the pulley. That is not correct. It should track to the right side under forward movement. The alignment procedure described above by marcparnes is detailed in the owners manual of my 2011.
Personally, I think the most significant "missed" aspect of the alignment process is in how the adjusters work, and keeping tension on the axle with them. For example, it is fully possible to have both adjusters set to equal length of exposed thread, yet the axle is canted several degrees! How is this possible? Because the adjuster rings are larger than the axle, and have "play" in them. The axle could very well be against the trailing edge of one adjuster, and the leading edge of the other. The axle MUST be firmly resting against the leading inner circle of BOTH adjuster rings for the adjustments to be correctly made. Again, this was referenced above in marcparnes exellent writeup.
willtill - 2012-12-02 3:28 PM
So I took Kevin's and Marc's advice. I did get the belt to track in the middle of the pulley without an awkward positioned wheel; the marks on the swing oppose each other by almost 1-2 notches.
After taking it for a good run later, the belt again has moved to the right. Also, a very slight moaning (I've heard it worse before when the belt was tight) is heard again at very slow speed maneuvering; due to the belt being a little tighter (it's about 1.5" of free play at cold, rather than 1.26" ) but that's a hell of a lot better than 2" previously.
I'll live with it, I guess. The bike tracks well, there's no discernible wear on the right side of the belt and I don't feel that slight "jerk" anymore from the excessive play in the belt.
It's is indeed a sensitive adjustment; as was remarked earlier by Bigfoot.
Edited by Turk 2012-12-03 9:42 AM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 802
| If you look under the bike about 1" forward of the kickstand you'll see a small protrusion sticking down. There is also another one of the other side. With my J&S jack I position the front lift arm right under these protrusions which has the rear arm coming out in the right place. The bike is pretty stable. Enough that I've taken off both wheels this way.
Marc |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| marcparnes - 2012-12-03 9:45 AM
If you look under the bike about 1" forward of the kickstand you'll see a small protrusion sticking down. There is also another one of the other side. With my J&S jack I position the front lift arm right under these protrusions which has the rear arm coming out in the right place. The bike is pretty stable. Enough that I've taken off both wheels this way.
Marc
The skid plate also makes lifting the bike immensely easy and stable! That's why I bought it.
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Turk - 2012-12-03 11:20 AM
The skid plate also makes lifting the bike immensely easy and stable! That's why I bought it.
Yep. Love the skid plate. And it has already saved the crankcase from a gas station's underground tank access cap; which was slightly raised and I inadvertently scraped over it while in a tight turn. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | The only thing holding me back from buying one is the $200+ price tag. I'd love to find a gently used one but that doesn't seem to be possible. I have a few other things to buy for the bike before I invest that kind of money although it's on my "list". It would make sense depending on how much maintenance I plan to do myself. I'm not exactly handy with tools so I tend to leave most stuff to others. Hmmm... |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 763
Anderson, IN (48mi NE of downtown Indianapolis) | Turk - 2012-12-03 11:20 AM
The skid plate also makes lifting the bike immensely easy and stable! That's why I bought it.
+1 |
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | I really hate putting by bike in the air. I would just short cut it like this.
The wrench was too long and hit the ground so I would put the bike at the edge of the garage to get extra clearence. I would loosen the nut with the bike on the ground.
This worked like a charm over a dozen times. I never did get the belt to do what I wanted. I'd just stop the chirp and be happy with that.
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Iron Butt
Posts: 880
Orlando, FL | Easiest way I have found to adjust the belt. AND this s REALLY EASY! Take bike to my wrench. Walk inand say "Hey, how about adjusting my belt"? Wait for adjustment, pay the tab and you are off. No hassles, now aggravation, no bruised knuckles!
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Tourer
Posts: 500
| I agree with MaddMAx2u.....The tech at my dealer is top notch and at the ripe old age of 73, I will continue to let him put the thing on the shop lift, check and adjust the belt, if needed, and go on my way...Costs a few bucks, but worth it to me many times over......Ride safe...
Edited by opas ride 2012-12-04 10:34 PM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | All true IF you can trust your mechanic/tech to do a good job. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 8
| Here is a video of my 2013 Vision on Pitbull Dyna Jack. It is solid as a rock on this lift.
http://youtu.be/l1jJzwoZhSs |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 8
| Here is a video of my 2013 Vision on Pitbull Dyna Jack. It is solid as a rock on this lift.
http://youtu.be/l1jJzwoZhSs |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 8
| I have a 2013 Victory Vision and here is a video of it being lifted on my Pitbull Dyna jack.
http://youtu.be/l1jJzwoZhSs |
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Cruiser
Posts: 251
Mechanicsville, VA United States | The belt is never going to run in the middle, under load it will run to the right side, under no load it will run to the left side, it's just the way it is!
I have a motorcycle lift(Direct-Lift), I put a screw up jack under the motor and lift the rear tire off the Direct-Lift, start the bike and shift into
5th gear and let it idle, the rear wheel is running around 30mph, Like Kevin says get your tension right from the right adjuster(belt side) before starting the bike then adjust the left side until it is tracking pretty much in the middle, tighten the big nut down.....you're done, unless it starts making noise then it's back to square one.....and I agree it's a pain to get it prefect, if there is such a thing!The object is to have the belt run as close to the middle as possible without running to hard against either side! I have done a lot of these adjustments and this is the way I do them..I not saying I'm right, it's just the way I do it........and set the belt tension with the bike cold otherwise your belt tension will be incorrect. |
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