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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 10
Southern California | I plan on transporting my 2011 Vision in the garage of my 5th wheel for a 300 mile trip next weekend.
I'd like some input on wheel chocks and tiedowns.
I remember seeing a thread somewhere that mentioned the tiedown procedure is critical, and I don't want to regret not asking how to do it properly.
I also need a good wheel chock, but because I do not want it permanently installed in the floor of the trailer, I'd like one that is secured by ratcheting straps to some anchor points in front and behind where the bike will be.
Any advice would be appreciated! |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | Depends how much you want to spend. Condor makes a nice chock. You don't have to bolt it down although I would. There's a tie down point on the frame behind the headlight area. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 10
Southern California | Thanks Monkeyman, I assume tying down to the left and right is a good idea from that point? I'll look up under there today and work it out.
I see lots of Condor chocks online, any one in particular you know would be best for the 925# beast? |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 849
, FL United States | I have both the stand-alone and the bolt-down Condor chocks. I use the stand-alone in trailers that don't have a notch for the front tire. The bolt-down is in my Toy-hauler and I have aprox 25 k miles traveling with my '08 Vision and have never had a problem with either one. They are pricey but worth it.
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 10
Southern California | Thanks Iron Butt, I'll check them out today.
Any tie down advice?
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Tourer
Posts: 482
Beer Collins, Colorado (there is no fort) | I use a Harbor Freight version of the Condor that's mounted in the bed of my truck-that & a Big Boy ramp have worked great for me the times I've had to piggyback my bikes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-stand-wheel-chock-97841.htm...
http://www.discountramps.com/motorcycle_ramps.htm |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | What about tying it down using those holes in the front tipovers, with eye rings installed? It is rumored that Ma Vic ships these bikes and ties them down with an eye ring threaded into each front tip over.
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Cruiser
Posts: 219
Pittsburgh, PA | I have never had my vision in my toy hauler. I have had a v92c and my hammer in there. I would use the bolt down model as said earlier. THey make them were you bolt down a base plate that gets bolted with carriage bolts to the floor. the chock slides over the base and locks into place but can be removed leaving only the base plate. I have one that came highly recommended but I do not remember the name and my trailer is put away in winter storage. sorry. You also do not mention how long you toy hauler is but there is a lot of movement inside a trailer, the longer the trailer the more chance for movement. If you do go with the boltless version, make sure you stop often and check you tiedowns early in the trip. Best of luck |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 10
Southern California | willtill - 2013-01-12 12:53 PM
What about tying it down using those holes in the front tipovers, with eye rings installed? It is rumored that Ma Vic ships these bikes and ties them down with an eye ring threaded into each front tip over.
Yes, I saw a new 2012 at the dealer with those eyelets in the front tipover guards, I did not even realize they were threaded for that, great idea.
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 10
Southern California | ByteN2it - 2013-01-12 11:51 AM
I use a Harbor Freight version of the Condor that's mounted in the bed of my truck-that & a Big Boy ramp have worked great for me the times I've had to piggyback my bikes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-stand-wheel-chock-97841.htm...
http://www.discountramps.com/motorcycle_ramps.htm
This looks like a great plan, along with strapping the bike down from frame tiedown spot and rear tipover anchors.
I just called the local Harbor Freight and they have it in stock, I'll pick it up tomorrow.
I'll place a wager I won't get out of there without a half dozen things I didn't know I needed til tomorrow though, thanks Byte! |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 10
Southern California | taz456 - 2013-01-12 1:06 PM
I have never had my vision in my toy hauler. I have had a v92c and my hammer in there. I would use the bolt down model as said earlier. THey make them were you bolt down a base plate that gets bolted with carriage bolts to the floor. the chock slides over the base and locks into place but can be removed leaving only the base plate. I have one that came highly recommended but I do not remember the name and my trailer is put away in winter storage. sorry. You also do not mention how long you toy hauler is but there is a lot of movement inside a trailer, the longer the trailer the more chance for movement. If you do go with the boltless version, make sure you stop often and check you tiedowns early in the trip. Best of luck
Thanks Taz, I think I may blend both technologies and bolt the one from harbor Freight to a large plate to eliminate any movement.
I appreciate the help! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 65
| The tie down under the headlight works very well. It metions it in the owners manual. Just run two soft ties through the slot and ratchet strap it down. I also used the tipover eyebolts (got some from the dealer) as an extra prcaution and tied down the back from the rear tipovers. I think if I flipped my trailer the Vision would still be tied to the floor but upside down. |
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Tourer
Posts: 499
Chattanooga, TN | Don't rely on the handle bar tie downs! I've heard it will mess up your steering. Make sure you use the eyelets, I'd pick up a pair from your local dealer. He should have plenty from the new bikes. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 228
| I use a removable chock made by Moose Racing. The mounting plate bolts to the floor with carriage bolts and the actual chock slide into the base and can be removed in about 30 seconds. I have used this chock with my '01 Royal Star Venture, my '08 Vision and my '12 Cross Country Tour. I have it mounted in a 38 Ft. Victory Lane fifth wheel toyhauler. DO NOT use cheap tiedowns as I have had the Wally World set that I have come loose on some long triips.
As to using the eyebolts on the tipovers.....why would you want to when a more substantial tiedown point is already provided which is cast into the frame vs. the bolt on tipovers with screw in eyebolts. I always used the tiedown point on my Vision and it was always more solid than my RSV or my CCT. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | savage - 2013-01-13 9:04 AM
As to using the eyebolts on the tipovers.....why would you want to when a more substantial tiedown point is already provided which is cast into the frame vs. the bolt on tipovers with screw in eyebolts. I always used the tiedown point on my Vision and it was always more solid than my RSV or my CCT.
Well.... the tipovers are built into the frame; and the eyebolts are used by Victory to tie it down. So why not use them?
I guess you could augment the tipover tiedowns with where one would utilize the tiedown pint cast into the frame as well.
Edited by willtill 2013-01-13 8:17 AM
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Cruiser
Posts: 208
Edmonton Alberta, Canada | I have a single axle enclosed motorcycle trailer, which I tow behind my 25 ft 5th wheel, it has a bolet in wheel chock, which 4 bolts with thumb wheels for easy and clear floor when removed.(came with trailer) I use up front 2" ratchet straps( commercial grade not wally world) which have hooks to fit in the eye under headlight. On the rear only to stop back tire from bouncing side to side I use 2 of the 1" ratchet tie downs wrapped around the rear tip overs. I have never had a problem. I thought of using the eye bolt system,however I prefer to tie down as high as possible as there is less stress on anchor points. Remember while shipping the bike is completely empty and a items such as windshield is not installed. Just remember to use good quality straps. 1' straps are rated for approx 800 - 1000# static. Our toy haulers and travel trailers are on springs and tend to bounce a lot more than air ride trailers that deliver from the factory. ( think of positioning a extendable ladder, the higher you grab it the easier it is to handle it)
I trust the cast eye on the frame to the eye bolts which need to be installed and then removed. Also I would not trust a 5/16 bolt which could strip out or break if your anchor point is pulling on an angle and not straight on.
Happy trailering.
Edited by norcan 2013-01-13 9:12 AM
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Cruiser
Posts: 228
| norcan......that is exactly the point I was trying to make. You presented it a lot better than I did! |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 46
| This is what I use:
http://store.condor-lift.com/products.php?product=Pit%252dStop%7B47...
http://powertye.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_... |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 10
Southern California | OK guys, thanks so much for all of your input, I'm locked and loaded, ready to ride this weekend!
I ended up using the Harbor Freight (believe it or not, very stout) chock, which I strapped down to 4 corners of 5th wheel garage using 1200# ratchet straps.
I then tied two more to the tie down point on the frame for the front and 2 more to the rear wheel, pulling diagonally to eliminate any left/right movement. Solid as a rock!
By the way, I went to the Harbor Freight store expecting to pay $90, but my buddy found a coupon for that chock for $50, plus he had a 20% off coupon that resulted in $40 total for the chock, then I spent $60 in good quality straps, $100 total to save my baby from tipping was well-spent.
Thanks again for all your help! |
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Tourer
Posts: 447
Cleveland, GA | Just so you know, the eyelets under the floorboards are NOT designed to be primary tiedowns. They are used in the shipping crate to help stabilize the bike. The primary tiedown is the slot under the headlight. Use the eyelets as additional, but I would NOT use them as my main tiedown.
I have trailered mine about 300 miles in a toy hauler RV, and a couple of times on a trailer. Both with chocks and without. No problems. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | MassiveMassis and Lone Ranger --- What toy haulers do you guys have? I'm thinking about buying one (used) if I can convince the bank to loan me the money. |
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Tourer
Posts: 447
Cleveland, GA | Monkeyman - 2013-01-16 12:37 AM MassiveMassis and Lone Ranger --- What toy haulers do you guys have? I'm thinking about buying one (used) if I can convince the bank to loan me the money. Coincidentally enough, it is a Victory Lane. But if I ever get another, I think it will be a Voltage. I think it's the successor to the Victory Lane and is laid out and planned much better: http://voltagehaulers.com/?site=voltagehaulers |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 10
Southern California | MonkeyMan, we have a 2008 Raptor 3812, it is actually 40ft including a 12ft garage. We use it for offroad side-by-side and motorcycle fun primarily, but my wife and I will take the street bikes out as a couple occasionally.
It cost about $50k new, but there are tons of great used ones from folks who do not use them or cannot afford to keep them these days.
One thing to consider, if they are too long (over 32' in my case), most state parks do not allow them, so think it through for some camp needs if you like full-hookup campgrounds.
Have fun! |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | Thanks, guys (I'm just assuming you're both guys). I've seen pics of the Victory Lanes, Voltages and Raptors. All VERY nice. I'm not too worried about state parks. I'm planning on living in one (and only need the garage for the Vision) with little traveling (couple trips per year) so, the bigger, the better. Most of my trips would be under 2 weeks so I think I could go long enough (just me and my cat) without a full hookup site to get by. (Or maybe not. I don't know much about trailers.) |
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Tourer
Posts: 447
Cleveland, GA | I've been living full-time in mine for right at three years now. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 219
Pittsburgh, PA | take a look at the road warrior line by heartland homes. these toyhaulers are very well built. Heartland also makes the cyclone which is one of the top 10 selling fifth wheels overall and the top rated toy hauler. Heartland incorporates alot of higher end goodies in their trailers and makes them standard equipment. things like slam doors for the underbelly, high end cabinets, heated tanks, underbelly and garage are just a few of the reasons that I bought the road warrior. They also use true one inch thick plywood in the garage floor. The cyclone is higher end but the only real difference is the thickness of the exterior walls with the cyclone being thick with extra layers. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | Lone Ranger - 2013-01-18 3:40 PM
I've been living full-time in mine for right at three years now.
Assuming you don't have any problems with the lack of space (I don't), are there any things to look out for/pitfalls with living full time in an RV? Insurance, maybe? I would assume it would cost less to heat/cool. Any security issues? Anything? |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | taz --- Whatever I buy will be used. No way I can afford new @ $50-$80k. I'll be in the $20-$25k range, at most. I have 9-14 years before I retire (I'd like to see 20-25 years with my current job assuming I don't move to a warmer state in the meantime). I'd like it to be paid off before I retire so I have some freedom before I'm too old to enjoy life. |
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Tourer
Posts: 447
Cleveland, GA | Monkeyman - 2013-01-19 6:38 AM Assuming you don't have any problems with the lack of space (I don't), are there any things to look out for/pitfalls with living full time in an RV? Insurance, maybe? I would assume it would cost less to heat/cool. Any security issues? Anything? Okay, here are a few observations, not in any particular order, and most certainly not complete. Security has never been a problem for me. RV parks usually attract a better class of people than mobile home parks (have lived in both). Most RV parks include electricity, water, and sewer in their rate. I'm currently paying $450 a month. You heat the RV with an electric furnace, fueled by propane. I haven't used mine much in the past couple of years, as I am using electric space heaters (RV park furnishes electricity, while I have to buy propane, so I minimize the propane use!) I'm paying about $800 a year for insurance, including the full-timer coverage. Winter requires you to wrap the water hose with electric heat tape. You can still freeze up, though, if you're not careful. Be prepared for that. And they're not as well-insulated as houses. I like my electric blanket! A couple of things you have to watch out for is taking care of your awning in windy weather and to not let your holding tanks of waste water get too full. You let them fill, then open a valve and empty them into the sewer. Don't keep them open all the time. Solids will accumulate and harden in the tank if the liquids just flow out continuously. Not a good thing! And you need to put wastewater treatments in the tank after you empty it, to keep odors down. You will have limited electrical draw. It's easy to overload a circuit if you don't manage your electrical usage. No big deal. If you have a generator on board, run it about a half hour every month. If you have slide-outs, run them in and back out about once a month. You'll want to make sure the RV is leveled nicely and that you use stabilizers underneath to reduce shaking and rocking. Good luck! |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | Thanks. I wouldn't plan on living in an RV park. Paying $450/mo wouldn't save me any money. I'd hope to find some tiny piece of ground that used to have a mobile home on it. That would give me a level concrete pad and utility hook ups. It would also give me a permanent address.
The insurance seems reasonable.
I've lived in the country with a well so I know all about heat tape (unfortunately). I hadn't thought about that. There were times when I had to use heat tape and leave the faucets drip just to keep things moving. I'll have to watch out for that. God willing, I'll end up farther south so it shouldn't be an issue.
I had no idea about the waste tanks. I figured, if I had a sewage connection, they should just be left open all the time. Shows what I know. (And that's why I asked for suggestions.)
I can easily get by with a 50 amp service. I run a computer (eventually, just a laptop) and occasionally a TV (LCD monitor). I tend to keep most lights off, etc. I've been working on decreasing my electric bill for years so I'm good.
I plan on buying one with a genset just to use occasionally on the road. I figured I'd have to cycle it once in a while. I didn't think about running the slide outs.
Thanks for the tips! |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 9
East Bridgewater, Ma. | Hi all,
This was the wheel lock I purchased for my 08 Vision. I bought it with the transport bar that bolted to the trailer floor. I had it on an open flat bed trailer doing 75 mph with the tie down on the tip over protection and a small strap on the front wheel. I also purchased the straps from them. I know it's not cheap but niether was the Vision.
This wheel lock works awesome when working on the bike.
Hope this helps
http://www.wheeldock.com/
Edited by Stocksandbonds 2013-01-28 3:13 PM
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 21
Colorado | I also use Wheeldock on my Trailor for 2 Motorcycles. One for me and one for the wife. They work great!! |
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Wheel Chock/Tie Downs for transporting Vision