Changing to Synthetic
visionbob
Posted 2008-07-07 1:40 PM (#13033)
Subject: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 141
Cumming, GA
I am considering Amsoil for my next oil change. Is there a procedure for cleaning the petroleum base oil from the engine?

Or, does it matter that there will be some residual dino oil in the system?

Thanks
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Flatsix
Posted 2008-07-07 10:12 PM (#13080 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Tourer

Posts: 412
Fargo, ND

 

No problem Bob...go ahead and do your oil change.  What remains of the dino oil in your engine will blend with the new synthetic you add, which won't be a problem.

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rdbudd
Posted 2008-07-07 10:13 PM (#13081 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 1632
Jasper, MO
Just do a normal oil change. There will be very little of your old oil left in the system, and the Amsoil will blend with any other motor oil anyway.

Ronnie
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2008-07-07 10:18 PM (#13083 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
Is it true that the vision came from the factory with Semi-synthetic oil?
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rainmaker
Posted 2008-07-07 10:46 PM (#13087 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 72
Eden Prairie, MN
Victory is semi synthetic. It is the only oil Victory recommends using. It is not about branding, it is about 10's of 1000's of hours in the dyno's and 100's of thousands of miles on the road.

I understand customizing, but I don't understand messing with proven technology. I'll leave the experimenting to you guys. Let me know when you can prove you made the right decision.
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Teach
Posted 2008-07-07 10:54 PM (#13088 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 1436
I went with Mobil1 synthetic at 2500, its a waste of time in my opinion. At 5500 the shifting is getting notchy and noisy and there was no apreciable difference in motor temp. So my advice is run what you like but don't expect a big difference. I'm going to try the Amsoil at 6k which will be before weeks end to see how it holds up. But best I can tell you'll still be replacing oil at 2500-3000 intervals.
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Flatsix
Posted 2008-07-07 11:17 PM (#13092 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Tourer

Posts: 412
Fargo, ND

Teach,

Did the Mobil 1 provide you with a noticeable difference in engine / transmission noise and shifting in the first 2500 miles of use?

TIA

John 

 

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visionbob
Posted 2008-07-08 7:42 AM (#13098 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 141
Cumming, GA
Thanks for your replies and opinions.

By the way ...... who supplies the oil that Polaris recommends? Last time I checked, they did not have a refinery. Just curious.
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2008-07-08 7:46 AM (#13099 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
Im not a big fan of semi anything.. I say full or nothing. but here is something to maybe try and look into... Who makes the victory oil... its not victory as they dont own oil refineries.. Its just like HD oil, they don't make it. Someone else makes it for them. And in the case with the HD oil it is made from whoever gives the lowest bid to produce their oil. And whats bad about the Hd oil is…. For the price of what they charge per Qt, you can buy the very best oil out there.. I never priced Victory oil and I heard it was only a semi-synth. What does that stuff usually go for?
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golfer
Posted 2008-07-08 9:36 AM (#13106 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 141
FYI.....You can do a full synthetic change including oil filter for less than $20 on a Vision. Buy a gallon of Rotella T (blue jug) and a Super Tech ST7317 both at Wal Mart. The oil is $16 and change, the filter is $2.49. I changed to Rotella non synthetic at 500 miles, and full synthetic at 3,000 miles. My bike is much quieter, shifts perfectly, and I am sure most of that is just due to break in. Go ahead and spend twice as much on pricey oil and filters, but Rotella works great and costs half as much. The only problem I ever had with oil was when I used Amsoil in my 04' Kingpin. Made the clutch slip extremely bad. Others have had the same problem with Amsoil.
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flint350
Posted 2008-07-08 9:41 AM (#13108 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 189
Baltimore, Md
I thought the reason they use semi-synth (whichever brand, I doubt Victory's own is required) is that the same oil runs through the clutch. Using full synth in the clutch can result in early clutch failure, costing a bunch. Being so slippery, I've never changed to synthetic oil until at least 3000 - 5000 miles on any bike I've owned. Early use of "slippery" oil can allow oil blowing past the rings before break-in is complete, to negative effect. I was "taught" all of this by a moto-mech some years ago and can't personally claim any scientific knowledge, but it made sense to me the way he explained it. In Victory's case, with the same oil going through the clutch, it may have been prudent to go semi-synth no matter the real manufacturer. Just food for thought. Everyone who's been riding a while has their own methods, this has been mine and it has served me well, along with a reasonably hard and early break-in to seat those rings. YMMV.
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visionbob
Posted 2008-07-08 10:54 AM (#13112 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 141
Cumming, GA
I now have 10k on the Vision and am getting ready for a 5k-6k road trip. Golfer, how often do you change the Wal-Mart oil. By the way....you need to look at my KPT setup (attached).
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visionbob
Posted 2008-07-08 11:04 AM (#13114 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 141
Cumming, GA
Sorry Golfer, the pictures were too large. Had to resize. Here they are.
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visionbob
Posted 2008-07-08 11:08 AM (#13116 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 141
Cumming, GA
Golfer, still didn't work. PM me an email address and I will send them to you.

Bob
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visionbob
Posted 2008-07-08 11:09 AM (#13117 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 141
Cumming, GA
Golfer, still didn't work. PM me an email address and I will send them to you.

Bob
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Teach
Posted 2008-07-08 11:59 AM (#13119 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 1436
Flatsix (John), to answer your question, no. In all likelihood synthetic makes the engine noise a bit more noticeable or at least that has been my experience on all bikes. Shifting wasn't any smoother than with the Victory semi-syn oil.

Someone questioned the use of full synthetic for engines that share tranny and engine oil... It isn't an issue and it will not harm the clutch in any way. Think of marbles because thats what oil molecules are. In traditional dino oil the number of molecules are spread further apart (larger), as such they lubricate but as they come into contact with moving part they sheer reducing the roll or slip effect. Semi syn increases the number of molecules or rather packs them closer thus less sheer, and of course full syn increases even more, hence its claim to reduce wear even more. An added benefit of the more molecules is the protection against harmful corrosives that can't accumulate due to the increased molecule count. ALL molecules sheer regardless of type of oil, but with a full syn you have more unsheered than with dino at the same operating interval. Oil change requirements are based on the number of times the molecules can be sheered/broken down, before they can no longer provide adiquate protection/lubrication.
Someone mentioned the Rotella, good oil in any composition (dino, semi, full) but it won't last any longer than any other. Amsoil "claims" better performing, longer lasting protection. For a couple bucks more I'll give it a go next change to see if their is any merit to the claim. Bottom line is the manufacturer can recommend anything, but we all know when its time for an oil change as the bike lets us know through clunky or rougher shifting.
The ONLY advice I would give with regards to oil "choice" is to ALWAYS use an oil intended for use in a bike (no friction modifiers). Using oils designed for a modern cage will frick up the clutch in short order. Oil filters?? Well be very careful there as well. Yes, Walmart sells a filter that is dirt cheap, but that is what you are getting, cheap. There are a number of online sites that have cross sections and spec's on filters, the Walmart filters are really really cheap and won't filter very much before failure of the filter (paper). You can get the Bosch 3323 filter at any autoparts store for right around $6, its black and compared to the Victory filter I can't tell any difference (appears to be the same filter just rebadged).
If you like MOTORCYCLE BRANDED oils, the Honda Oils are the best I hav EVER used, and are priced very reasonable. They also do the jug thing which saves a few extra bucks. On a Suzi 1500 I owned I could get no more than 2200 miles between changes with all the oils I tried, until I tried the Honda oil. Average was 3300 between changes. I ride a bunch of miles each year and I don't want to make the oil companies any richer than I have to, so shop and find what works best for you and your bike.
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golfer
Posted 2008-07-08 4:49 PM (#13134 - in reply to #13108)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 141
flint350 - 2008-07-08 9:41 AM

Being so slippery, I've never changed to synthetic oil until at least 3000 - 5000 miles on any bike I've owned. Early use of "slippery" oil can allow oil blowing past the rings before break-in is complete, to negative effect.


That is why I ran regular non synthetic Rotella from 500 miles to 3,000 miles, then switched to the full synthetic Rotella at 3,000 miles.
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golfer
Posted 2008-07-08 4:52 PM (#13136 - in reply to #13112)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 141
visionbob - 2008-07-08 10:54 AM

I now have 10k on the Vision and am getting ready for a 5k-6k road trip. Golfer, how often do you change the Wal-Mart oil. By the way....you need to look at my KPT setup (attached).



Every 3,000...

erikkranz@yahoo.com
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Breaker
Posted 2008-07-08 5:15 PM (#13139 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Iron Butt

Posts: 732
Western WA
Not on the Vision, but on my last bike I used the Shell Rotella T syn, (from WalMart), after the first 3000 miles without a problem.

I changed it every 3000, and it had 19,000 miles when sold and still purred like a kitten.

I'll more than likely use it on the Vision as well.
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2008-07-08 5:49 PM (#13140 - in reply to #13108)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
flint350 - 2008-07-08 9:41 AM

I thought the reason they use semi-synth (whichever brand, I doubt Victory's own is required) is that the same oil runs through the clutch. Using full synth in the clutch can result in early clutch failure, costing a bunch. Being so slippery, I've never changed to synthetic oil until at least 3000 - 5000 miles on any bike I've owned. Early use of "slippery" oil can allow oil blowing past the rings before break-in is complete, to negative effect. I was "taught" all of this by a moto-mech some years ago and can't personally claim any scientific knowledge, but it made sense to me the way he explained it. In Victory's case, with the same oil going through the clutch, it may have been prudent to go semi-synth no matter the real manufacturer. Just food for thought. Everyone who's been riding a while has their own methods, this has been mine and it has served me well, along with a reasonably hard and early break-in to seat those rings. YMMV.


http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-change-and-filters.com/amsoil_articl...

http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq1.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx
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Joe H
Posted 2008-07-08 6:35 PM (#13143 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 72
Eyota, MN
I used Amsoil 20w-50 motorcycle oil in my 2004 Kingpin from 5000 miles up to 33500 miles when I sold it and it ran perfectly, never had a problem with it. It ran a little quieter and shifted awesome.
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2008-07-08 7:05 PM (#13144 - in reply to #13143)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
Joe H - 2008-07-08 6:35 PM

I used Amsoil 20w-50 motorcycle oil in my 2004 Kingpin from 5000 miles up to 33500 miles when I sold it and it ran perfectly, never had a problem with it. It ran a little quieter and shifted awesome.


I was wondering if the victorys that had problems with amsoil and clutch useage were using the amsoil motor oil and NOT motorcycle oil?

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BillyTheKidd
Posted 2008-07-08 11:21 PM (#13172 - in reply to #13144)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 60
Denver
I use the Mobile 1 V Twin oil. In all of my Goldwings (several hundred thousand combined miles) I used the Mobile 1 15 - 50. It used to be referred to as the Gold cap. Never a problem. On my vision I started using the full synthetic at the 500 mile change and have never looked back. There is some thoughts that one must wait a certain amount of miles before switching... BS.. Your engine doesn't know the difference between 500 miles and 4k. That goes back to some old school thinking. Most new vehicles come with synthetic now days from the factory. The main reason motorcycles do not is because of the cost and the frequent oil changes. On my wings I always waited 5k between changes, and truly never had a problem.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html#OilFilters




Willy
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BillyTheKidd
Posted 2008-07-08 11:28 PM (#13173 - in reply to #13172)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 60
Denver
Sorry I meant to put these links here also...

http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm

http://amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_V-Twin_20...

Willy

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Teach
Posted 2008-07-12 1:05 PM (#13411 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 1436
I thought I'd update what I found when I replaced the oil today. I was running the mobil1 synthetic MC specific oil 20/50. It was completely black and rather sludgie. Since I still had the Victory oil in a container waiting to go to the recycler I compared the two (just a finger test). The Victory Semi-Syn felt smoother and had less discoloration than the Mobil1.
I replaced the Mobil1 with Amsoil and I'll post as to my experience with it as the miles get ridden. This much I can say about Mobil, it is about as effective as the Victory oil for the SAME mileage interval and I wouldn't recommend exending the change interval beyond 2500 if you are using it. If you do decide to run it over 2500 expect your gear box to get notchy & noisy at around 2700-3000 miles.
Just so the record is straight I am using the Bosch 3323 HiP oil filter which I did note is slightly different than the Polaris filter in the circulating holes (diameter on each hole is about half the size). So I may look for an alternative filter with less restrictive flow.
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Len Rhymes
Posted 2008-07-12 3:33 PM (#13415 - in reply to #13411)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Jacksonville Florida
I changed to Repsol at the 500 mile service. Repsol I'm told own's the oil well, refinery and markets their product. It is red in color. I need another oil change but I'm holding off until Vision Bob and I head north to the big party. I check the oil every time I ride and the Repsol is the same color as the day I put it in. I'm going to try the Amsoil this time because it is pretty warm here in Florida and the Repsol only comes in 10/40.
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2008-07-13 6:44 AM (#13438 - in reply to #13119)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
What i have been wondering in regards to oil filters for our bike is, I was wondering what the stock victory oil filter uses as far as PSI for the bypass relief valve on their oil filters? This is why i was wondering this, let say they have a filter designed to go into bypass mode at 7-10psi. Now others may want to purchase a cheaper oil filter from walley-world and its bypass doesnt open until 14psi will this hurt the Freedom engine? Probably not, will it help it? probably not. But i cant say until i knew Who make the oil filters for victory. or at least know what the bypass valve pressure is... So right now i replaced my oil filter at my 500 mark with a Oem filter. at least this way i know i am safe until i can get some answers. 8) And believe me i never use oem oil or filters. I feel oil filters are just as important as the oil we talk about.. Why go all the way with the oil and skimp out with the filter?

Edited by Arkainzeye 2008-07-13 6:47 AM
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RotnRat
Posted 2008-07-19 8:31 PM (#13847 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 117
South of Houston Tx
Is the Rotella T a Motorcycle oil? I never found anything In Walmart with a "MA" rating, and I was under the impression that this was the important thing as far as the wet clutch property of the oil, not weather it is synthetic or not? at any rate I have been using the Amsoil 20/50 since 2500 miles along with the pure one filter.

Edited by RotnRat 2008-07-19 8:32 PM
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VisionTex
Posted 2008-07-19 9:00 PM (#13850 - in reply to #13847)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx.
Don't you just love oil threads........it is just like our choices in motorcyles, religion, politcs, or what blue jean to wear. we have to decide what is best for us. I feel the main thing on oil is to use a recommended motorcycle oil. Some folks use other types of oil, when you do that, the main thing to remember is to use oil that is not a fuel conserving type oil. That is stated on the quart bottle. Fuel conserving oils have additives added that are friction reducers and that can effect you wet clutch. Some motorcycle oils are better than others, you just have to get one that you like. If you want more information, just do a web search for "motorcyle oil" and get ready to for a couple of hours of reading. It is very interesting on how oils are made and how they stand up to the test in a motorcycle. Also, you can do a web search for oil filters and get a good idea on what to use.........if you don't want to use a Victory filter.
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2008-07-21 9:20 AM (#13956 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
Until now i pretty much used whatever i wanted in my cycles. I for the past few years have been using amsoil motorcycle oil. Not because it is rated for motorcycles, but because of how it made my other motorcycles shift in the past.. Now recently after reading the Fine Print of the victory warranty info. I will now more than ever use only motorcycle oil.. If you read the fine print of the warranty. AND... if you have the extended warranty, you will see there is loop holes that could void a engine related warranty for not following procedures.. And no, your use of none motorcycle oil will Not be the cause of your engine problems... But you give a company a loop hole to not have to pay out thousands of dollars in the case of engine related failures and they will more than likely take it.. I see victory is very detailed about you keeping all your receipts for oil filters and oil, and even logging the dates and mileage that everything was changed.. I seen how they are about transferring a warranty also... This is different from what i am used too when dealing with warranties. Im not talking badly about victory.. Not at all.. im just saying they will check to see if you dotted your I's And crossed your T's "if" the time comes for a warranty claim. And more so if it is engine related.. This is of course only from what i read in the warranty info. This has nothing to do with my experience with victory..
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dtoddrship
Posted 2008-07-23 4:06 PM (#14242 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 79
Austin, Texas
I used Amzoil in my '05 Kingpin with no problem. It ran quieter and cooler, and shifted better. I was told by a dealer's mechanic that the Victory oil is really Mobil 1. Regardless, I'm at 2500 miles now and will stick with Victory oil to at least the 5K mark, then change out to Amzoil again.

I'll pretty much chase anything that might reduce the heat off this motor, 'cause it's burning me out.
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cw1115
Posted 2008-07-23 8:16 PM (#14267 - in reply to #14242)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl
I was using Amsoil in my V-Star and planned on using it in my Vision. Now I'm undecided. The Yamaha had a recommended 4000 mile interval for oil changes and I was pushing it out to 5000. Plus it only needed 3.5 quarts with a new filter. With the way I'm putting miles on my Vision combined with the 2500 mile interval, that's going to get expensive. Until I make up my mind what to do, I bought the Victory oil change kit. Still kind of expensive. $60 for the oil, filter, and oil plug seal. Any suggestions.
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rainmaker
Posted 2008-07-23 9:57 PM (#14275 - in reply to #14267)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 72
Eden Prairie, MN
Your best choice and the only one tested for millions of miles and hours by Victory and recommended for that reason and only that reason. Victory Engineering uses it in all of their test bikes, durabilty and performance dynos. Why argue with success?
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Side Car
Posted 2008-07-31 2:15 PM (#14826 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 44
Salt lake city Ut.
I have used amsoil in 5 vics (20-50 mc oil)after 2500 miles with exellent results and I resently added 16oz of lucas oil stabilizer to the last oil change and rode to Vegas from SLC I could definatly tell a difference in running temp and shifting. the average ambient temp was 96 to 111 degrees. I was very impressed and as we rode slower canyon thru utahs back country there was absolutly no clutch slippage.
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Banjo
Posted 2008-07-31 6:53 PM (#14858 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Tourer

Posts: 319
The 106 "Freedom" V-twin is so smooth with Amsoil 10-40........I love it
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2008-08-11 4:10 PM (#15811 - in reply to #14826)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
Side Car - 2008-07-31 2:15 PM

I have used amsoil in 5 vics (20-50 mc oil)after 2500 miles with exellent results and I resently added 16oz of lucas oil stabilizer to the last oil change and rode to Vegas from SLC I could definatly tell a difference in running temp and shifting. the average ambient temp was 96 to 111 degrees. I was very impressed and as we rode slower canyon thru utahs back country there was absolutly no clutch slippage.


take this for what its worth. but on amsoil.com they actaully WARN not to use oil additives with their oils..
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2008-08-11 4:13 PM (#15812 - in reply to #14858)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
Banjo - 2008-07-31 6:53 PM

The 106 "Freedom" V-twin is so smooth with Amsoil 10-40........I love it



I put in amsoil at 500 miles. I really love this stuff. but recently i noticed amsoil raised their prices. not the list price is getting close to $11 a qt. I might be able to find it someplace else cheaper. But if this is the case i might try Mobil1 Motorcycle oil. Not only can i get it just about everywhere i live but i think it is a few bucks cheaper. I would rather stay with amsoil. If you look on amsoils website and look up how they compare other oils to theirs, you will see mobil1 is right no their tails on everything. and in a few tests matched exactly what amsoil did. As far as 10w40 engine wear mobil1 was exactly the same as amsoil. Now im just wondering if mobil1 shifts as smooth as amsoil.
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tralphaz
Posted 2008-08-11 8:50 PM (#15829 - in reply to #14275)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Tourer

Posts: 353
rainmaker - 2008-07-23 6:57 PM

Your best choice and the only one tested for millions of miles and hours by Victory and recommended for that reason and only that reason. Victory Engineering uses it in all of their test bikes, durabilty and performance dynos. Why argue with success?


Same could be said for Harley oil, Honda oil, Yamaha oil etc. each company has their engineers that swear by their product, why? Because they make money selling it.

I put in amsoil at 500 miles. I really love this stuff. but recently i noticed amsoil raised their prices. not the list price is getting close to $11 a qt.
I paid $10 for the Preferred Customer Zone a while back so I could get the Amsoil products at a discount, I ordered a case for my pickup and 2 cases for my bikes and a few other items and saved a couple bucks a qt. Next time I need oil, I'll enroll again.

Edited by tralphaz 2008-08-11 9:03 PM
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Big Vic
Posted 2008-08-11 9:57 PM (#15840 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Iron Butt

Posts: 619
Southeast Iowa
Amsoil, Amsoil, Amsoil........I'm now a believer. I switched my wifes Kingpin over 3300 miles ago. I just changed oil in both our bikes yesterday and noticed a few things. 1. The Kingpin shifted better with 3300 miles on the oil change than the Vision did with 2200 miles (Victory oil) on it. My Vision shifted like the Kingpin after I changed the oil. The Vision also seems (don't know how to prove it) to rev much quicker with Amsoil. I'm not sure I'll go 5000 miles like some but I would easily run 3000-3500 without concern. Bottom line is Amsoil cost about the same as Victory and appears (to me at least) to perform MUCH better.
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Teach
Posted 2008-08-11 10:42 PM (#15846 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 1436
The Amsoil I am SORRY to say is actually working nicely, lol. Currently at 3500 since oil change and its shifting smooth and not quite so noisy..... aka no indicators its in need of change yet. I did have to add a half quart at 3000 miles but don't ask me where it went because I have zero leakage, lol.
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rainmaker
Posted 2008-08-12 12:48 AM (#15870 - in reply to #15829)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 72
Eden Prairie, MN
tralphaz - 2008-08-11 7:50 PM

rainmaker - 2008-07-23 6:57 PM

Your best choice and the only one tested for millions of miles and hours by Victory and recommended for that reason and only that reason. Victory Engineering uses it in all of their test bikes, durabilty and performance dynos. Why argue with success?


(quote)Same could be said for Harley oil, Honda oil, Yamaha oil etc. each company has their engineers that swear by their product, why? Because they make money selling it.

That is just synical. WHy is it that you believe the Amsoil Salesman when he tells you his oil is better? Isn't he making money selling it? Has he tested it? Does Amsoil have a million million miles running a Victory on Amsoil?

My point is, the oil is blended for Victory is tested and used by Victory. It has the properties required for designed results. Putting anything else in is simply an experiement.

I don't give flying fish what you put in your bike. I'm not crowing on any oil, maybe it is all better, but it just doesn't make sense to me to experiment like that.

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tralphaz
Posted 2008-08-14 7:49 PM (#16113 - in reply to #15870)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Tourer

Posts: 353
Putting anything else in is simply an experiement.

I don't give flying fish what you put in your bike. I'm not crowing on any oil, maybe it is all better, but it just doesn't make sense to me to experiment like that.



Good, I don't like flying fish.
Experimenting BTW, would be putting an oil that is not approved by Victory like vegetable oil....... The owners manual says "Use only Victory brand Semi-Synthetic 20w-40 Motor oil or equivalent oil for use with wet clutches such as JASO MA ratings.

Guess what? Amsoil, Repsol, Castrol, Mobil and many others qualify as equivalent's .



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dwhite28
Posted 2008-08-14 9:07 PM (#16120 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Tourer

Posts: 404
San Antonio, TX United States
Thank you tralphaz. I was about to make a similar comment. I am a Polaris/Victory Bombardier tech, and that is exactly what i suggest to people as well. I suggest to people that want to change oil brands to wait at least till the 25oo mile mark. That way the engine on the Victory is broken in well. You can change it to Amsoil or whatever at the 500 mile mark if you like, i just like to keep it till the 2500 mile mark.
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2008-08-15 9:08 PM (#16220 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
https://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq1.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx

Does the vision come with a factory fill of semi-synth oil ?

Edited by Arkainzeye 2008-08-15 9:12 PM
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tralphaz
Posted 2008-08-16 1:37 AM (#16238 - in reply to #16220)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Tourer

Posts: 353
Arkainzeye - 2008-08-15 6:08 PM

https://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq1.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx

Does the vision come with a factory fill of semi-synth oil ?


Most likely Vic semi-synth....... BTW There is no minimum standard for calling an oil semi-synthetic, if it contains a drop of synthetic, it's enough.
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docvtx
Posted 2008-08-16 10:43 AM (#16243 - in reply to #16238)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 98
Santa Maria CA
i use amsoil or royal blue oil, my corvette has digital gauges, i swithed from mobil1 to royal blue and the oil temp dropped over 20 deg. the same wwhen i put amsoil in. lower oil temp means this friction. i also use amsoil in my bikes for years and no problem.
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Banjo
Posted 2008-08-17 8:06 PM (#16318 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Tourer

Posts: 319
Every oil with a JASO MA rating is good enough to put in your Freedom 106 V-Twin.
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dwhite28
Posted 2008-08-17 8:18 PM (#16321 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Tourer

Posts: 404
San Antonio, TX United States
Please refer to Llpydz Tech Talk. There is a paragraph concerning oil. Just because the temp drops does not always mean less friction. To drop your temp a little, like 5 to 10 degrees could be a good thing. But you dont want to take away from the way an engine is designed. It may need that extra bit of heat to burn the fuel efficiently. The important thing is keeping a good "shear rate" and the oil to maintain its lubricating properties. Thats where many of the synthetics win out over the mineral oils. The synthetics stay more stable over a longer period of time.
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2008-08-17 9:50 PM (#16329 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
I might try mobil1 10w40 motorcycle oil this one time in my vision as i need another oil change in 150 miles. and there isnt any amsoil around me. I swear by amsoil, but with the increase in amsoils price and how hard it is to find, THEN the 2500 oci of the vision i might try something i can find easily and cost less. I havebeen using amsoil for Years now. My main reason for using amsoil was extended oil change intervals. But since i have a warranty with this bike i am not going to extend the OCI. i dont need a legal battle if my engine spun a bearing or something. I seriously doubt the maker of (brand A) oil will have your back in the fight to prove you were safe in extended the oci. So imight try mobil1 as i can get it Everywhere. and if i feel no difference than i might use that. now if i was doing my 7500 mile oci like i did in my other bike then i would only use amsoil and nothing else.
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mcassill
Posted 2008-08-24 1:02 PM (#16808 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


New user

Posts: 3
Iowa
I've been running Mobil1 15-50 with a Mobil1 oil filter in my KPT. Now have 2500 miles since last oil change, and the stuff hasn't even started to turn color yet. Just my $.02.
Mark
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Teach
Posted 2008-08-24 4:37 PM (#16818 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 1436
Arkainzeye, you could use the Mobil1 BUT you'd be pissing away good money. I used the Mobil1 for my Vision and it got 2500 miles before the shifting became harsh/notchy. Amsoil doesn't extend the interval either, so for all intent and purpose you can run any oil that is going to carry you 2500. I purchased enough Amsoil for 2 oil changes and just did a change this morning. I mistakenly posted I was at 3300 when I meant to post 2300 miles. The Amsoil went 3100 miles before the shifting became harsh, and I'll add that it happened overnight, not gradual. My bike will be due for another change in a couple weeks so I plan to try the Shell Rotella T Synthetic since its cheaper in cost than both Mobil1 and Amsoil but still a QUALITY oil.... Cost for the Mobil runs real close to the Amsoil at $37 if you buy the 4 quart jug and a spare quart. The Shell Rotella Synthetic is $17 for the jug & spare quart. Since it makes little difference to the mileage replacement interval, I'm not tossing money on high end oil.
I had a Suzuki LC1500 years back and it wold only go 2500 before it needed the oil changed as indicated by the harsh shifting. I used the Honda GN 4 (I think GN4 is the syn) and could get 3200 miles between. The Vision seems to follow the same schedule. I will say I went over the interval on my trip south and had no issues or concerns about extending the change for the extra 2k miles over recommended.
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spursmvp
Posted 2008-08-24 8:50 PM (#16851 - in reply to #13087)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Tourer

Posts: 377
O'Neill, Nebraska
rainmaker - 2008-07-07 9:46 PM

Victory is semi synthetic. It is the only oil Victory recommends using. It is not about branding, it is about 10's of 1000's of hours in the dyno's and 100's of thousands of miles on the road.

I understand customizing, but I don't understand messing with proven technology. I'll leave the experimenting to you guys. Let me know when you can prove you made the right decision.


My thoughts exactly! I figure those 'engineer' guys are smarter than me so I'll stick with the $60 kit I get from my dealer.
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SongFan
Posted 2008-08-24 9:07 PM (#16853 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3204
Memphis

A couple from California came into Memphis for a 2,500 mile service and my dealer noticed that the oil for the California Visions is a slightly different blend than the 49 state version.  (Cali was slightly cheaper also.) 

It seems to me that if Victory is that picky about the blends they probably have it figured out.

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Big Vic
Posted 2008-08-24 9:20 PM (#16856 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Iron Butt

Posts: 619
Southeast Iowa
It amazes me how people get all freaked out about the oil they put in their bike.............meanwhile they let any Joe at a quick lube shop dump anything in their car/truck without ever quoting what they think Ford, Chevy, or BMW engineers were thinking when they spec'd the oil. Victory does not make oil! They only make money off of someone elses oil. I'm sure they spec'd a good oil, and I'm also sure there is better out there for less money. For the same money as Victory oil I can use Amsoil with better results. Just my 2 cents.
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Teach
Posted 2008-08-24 10:03 PM (#16860 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 1436
I found this a bit interesting. Maybe a few others will as well. Please don't think I'm a big fan of Amsoil, thats never been the case, but so far it works well in the Victory.
https://www.amsoil.com/news/2008_motorcycle_dyno.pdf


Edited by Teach 2008-08-24 10:04 PM
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2008-08-25 9:07 PM (#16940 - in reply to #16818)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
Teach - 2008-08-24 4:37 PM

Arkainzeye, you could use the Mobil1 BUT you'd be pissing away good money. I used the Mobil1 for my Vision and it got 2500 miles before the shifting became harsh/notchy. Amsoil doesn't extend the interval either, so for all intent and purpose you can run any oil that is going to carry you 2500. I purchased enough Amsoil for 2 oil changes and just did a change this morning. I mistakenly posted I was at 3300 when I meant to post 2300 miles. The Amsoil went 3100 miles before the shifting became harsh, and I'll add that it happened overnight, not gradual. My bike will be due for another change in a couple weeks so I plan to try the Shell Rotella T Synthetic since its cheaper in cost than both Mobil1 and Amsoil but still a QUALITY oil.... Cost for the Mobil runs real close to the Amsoil at $37 if you buy the 4 quart jug and a spare quart. The Shell Rotella Synthetic is $17 for the jug & spare quart. Since it makes little difference to the mileage replacement interval, I'm not tossing money on high end oil.
I had a Suzuki LC1500 years back and it wold only go 2500 before it needed the oil changed as indicated by the harsh shifting. I used the Honda GN 4 (I think GN4 is the syn) and could get 3200 miles between. The Vision seems to follow the same schedule. I will say I went over the interval on my trip south and had no issues or concerns about extending the change for the extra 2k miles over recommended.


In my last bike Vulcan 2000, i tried Rotella Synthetic (blue jug) I wanted to start saving money on oil changes. That oil lasted just under 1000 miles before it made my shifting notchy. AMSOIL in my vulcan went past 6000 miles with no notchy shifting. Im not going to extend my OCI on the vision as i have the extended warranty.
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2008-08-25 9:10 PM (#16941 - in reply to #16856)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
Big Vic - 2008-08-24 9:20 PM

It amazes me how people get all freaked out about the oil they put in their bike.............meanwhile they let any Joe at a quick lube shop dump anything in their car/truck without ever quoting what they think Ford, Chevy, or BMW engineers were thinking when they spec'd the oil. Victory does not make oil! They only make money off of someone elses oil. I'm sure they spec'd a good oil, and I'm also sure there is better out there for less money. For the same money as Victory oil I can use Amsoil with better results. Just my 2 cents.



I agree with you! I use amsoil in my cars also. I do a once a year OCI on them. I also have used oil analysis to prove the oil could last that long. On my last bike the tests shown amsoil to go up to 7500 miles on my vulcan 2000. I traded it in before i had a chance to see if it would go even further than 7500 miles. Whats really nice about the once a year OCI on my little suv is, its a pain in the bean bag to change oil! you have to lower the under body armor, THEN its a excerise in patience to remove the filter. I do how ever replace the filter every 6 month either way.
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tylerdang
Posted 2008-09-28 9:33 PM (#19182 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 12
At about 3,000 miles on bike I switched to amzoil. I noticed at about 10,000 that when I got on it fairlyl hard, starting up a hill w/ trailer behind, the clutch sqealed like a tire. I looked next to me to see if someone was burning out but that was not the case. It has happen a few times since then. I am going back to victory oil next oil change. I now have about 15 k on the bike.
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cw1115
Posted 2008-09-29 2:51 PM (#19254 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl
I'm particular about the oil I ut in my car too. All I run is Penzoil patnium 5W20 full synthetic. Also a firm believer of always useing the same brand once you decide on one.
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vic2004-08
Posted 2008-09-29 6:30 PM (#19273 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 87
Lusby,Md
I use Royal Purple 20-50,30,000 miles on my T/C and 12,000 on my Vision,no problems.My advice,keep your oil changed.Just my 2 cents.
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varyder
Posted 2008-10-06 10:52 PM (#20050 - in reply to #19273)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA

My two cents, I went AMSOIL at the 21K mark and it seemed to run slightly quieter at the beginning. I might went a little longer before it was time to change oil again after about 3.2K. To me this is not significant enough to warrant paying the extra. I went back to the Vic 50/50 20w40 juice. On my Wing GL1200 I ran it out until 8k, I thought I'd at least get 5k, but no dice.

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jama
Posted 2008-10-07 12:37 AM (#20056 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 293
Arkansas
I'm sure that Victory oil is great, as are the other premium brands, for the most part. I just don't agree with the margin on the Victory oil [over $8.33 per quart for dino/syn (allowing $10.00 for the included filter)]. And there is no way that I know of to buy it in bulk or buy it without the filter, in case you use the Conquest filter or similar. I change mine almost every month and that would end up costing 25% of the price paid for the bike in 5 years! Just for oil! To me it's just an unnecessary expense. It can be done just as well on 1/2 to 1/3 that. Whew, I feel so much better now, after trying to find a way to buy the Vic oil in bulk today. It's like talking to the Cartel.
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sandman
Posted 2008-10-07 7:23 AM (#20060 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 294
rhode island
Victory used to sell their oil in 50gal. drums, they may still do that.
I've been using valvalene 20-50 motorcycle oil made for wet clutches with good results.
non syn. for now.
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Banjo
Posted 2008-10-07 7:45 AM (#20063 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Tourer

Posts: 319
I say if youre gonna change oil at the 2500 recommended interval it doesnt matter what oil you use as long at it has the "Jaso ma" rating. I have been useing Amsoil for 18 years without problems and extending the drain intervals....Amsoil & the Victory oil are the same price....in that case I'm using the full synthetic product.
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Joe H
Posted 2008-10-07 7:57 AM (#20064 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 72
Eyota, MN
I've had great luck with Amsoil and run it in most things I own, I think people need to think about what's best for your investment, not thinking about saving a few pennies every 2500 miles on oil. You did buy a bike that was over $20,000!! Take care of it with quality stuff, don't go cheep. Just my two cents worth, Ride Safe.
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2008-10-07 8:49 AM (#20068 - in reply to #16856)
Subject: Re: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
Big Vic - 2008-08-24 9:20 PM

It amazes me how people get all freaked out about the oil they put in their bike.............meanwhile they let any Joe at a quick lube shop dump anything in their car/truck without ever quoting what they think Ford, Chevy, or BMW engineers were thinking when they spec'd the oil. Victory does not make oil! They only make money off of someone elses oil. I'm sure they spec'd a good oil, and I'm also sure there is better out there for less money. For the same money as Victory oil I can use Amsoil with better results. Just my 2 cents.


I completely agree with you !! Ill be damned if im going to pay $60 for a Victory kit that is nothing more than semi-synth oil when i can get 100% synth oil and pay less..... And as it was stated Victory doesnt even make their own oil. Usually companies like this get their oil made by whomever is the cheapest bidder. Unlike companies like mobil1 and amsoil where oil is what they do and nothing else. With the victory oil, like HD oil a large part of that money is going towards the labeling on the bottle.
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visionbob
Posted 2008-10-08 3:44 PM (#20185 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Cruiser

Posts: 141
Cumming, GA
Just changed my Amsoil after my AVR trip which I racked up 9200 miles. Here is a picture of the Victory oil after 2500 miles and the Amsoil after 10,000 miles.
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Banjo
Posted 2008-10-10 11:27 PM (#20371 - in reply to #13033)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Tourer

Posts: 319
Looks like the Amsoil is darker.Proving thats its doing its job by keeping the engine clean inside.
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varyder
Posted 2008-10-10 11:47 PM (#20374 - in reply to #20371)
Subject: RE: Changing to Synthetic


Visionary

Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA
I'm a little slow at things like this. I see that regardless of oil types I would expect the same results when compared between 2.5k and 10k, 4 times the recommendation. The question to me is, if using engine rattle as an indicator, was your's running the same at 10K with AMSOIL as it was with Vic at 2.5k? I noticed mine began the oil rattle a little later then the Vic, around 3k, but there is no way I would have pushed it to 10K. As I mentioned earlier I have done the AMSOIL bit and it worked very well in my GL1200, going 8k instead of 5k with Honda 50/50. With the Vic I don't see a significant noticeable improvement, maybe an additional 500 miles before the rattle began. Given the mileage I do, an average of 2.1k per month, I would love to go at least 3 months on an oil change instead of a month and a half. I'm new to Vic's and with a new bike I don't want to push the boundaries of the wwarrantee only have to sink several K's to replace an engine if something would fail that "could" be blamed on oil change intervals, even if it wasn't the cause. Flame on...
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