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Iron Butt
Posts: 803 Perry Hall, MD | 1.5 weeks ago had a headlamp burn out. Replaced both with standard 60/55w H4 bulbs.
Few days later used WD40 to lubricate ignition switch.
Couple days later headlamp went out momentarily (3-4 sec) about 20 minutes into commute.
Next day same as above.
Next day off for around 5 sec 10 minutes into ride then again for 5 sec 20 minutes into commute (just entered S curve).
Switching from low to high beam had no effect.
Each time still had some illumination I thought was coming from PIAA auxiliary lamps.
Checked wiring. pulled H4 terminals added more dielectric grease, checked fuses, jiggled, pushed, and pulled wires with lamps not flickering at all.
Used CRC electric cleaner spray in ignition switch.
Last night had Mrs. drive in front of me with video filming me.
Within 1/4 mile auxiliary lights flickered then went out for 2-3 sec.
Another 1/4 mile auxiliary and H4s flickered then out for 2-3 sec. HID stayed on.
With lights on (engine not running) checked auxiliary lamp connections, jiggled, pushed, pulled everything fine.
Started engine - still on kickstand - within 30 sec, auxiliary and H4s out.
Turned off HID and auxiliary (on same switch) kept bike running and H4s were fine.
Also during this time starter switch did nothing 3 or 4 times.
I'm not an electric guy and other than remove and replace I don't know how to test the system.
Can't afford to loose my lights with the commute that I have.
I expect criticism for the ignition switch spray, but really need to know, do I start there now or is it a relay issue or something else I need to consider. THANKS
Edited by lennyb 2013-08-12 5:46 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| I don't see where spraying the ignition would effect the lights. I do mine maybe three times a year and no problems.
Check battery with wrench to see if there tight.
Maybe the connector that plugs into the bulb could be the problem there poorly maid and can have bad contact.
Is it just one light or both. Am guessing it the socket. I take it you got both bulbs seated correct.
Get a bulb from auto store and plug into connector and then wiggle the hell out of it.
I think auto stores even sell the socket |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 803 Perry Hall, MD | Thanks for the input.
Battery terminals OK. Did everything I could possibly do to test the sockets and bulbs are seated/clamped in the housing securely.
Auxiliary lights appear to be the common denominator. Either they go out alone or (and most frequently) the headlamps (both) go out with them. HID is not effected. Wiring diagram shows that there is a connection between the two. Just left bike running for a while and every 35 to 60 seconds lights failed for several seconds. Turn the HID lamp switch off, which oddly enough also controls the auxiliary lamps, and the headlamps stay on. Unplugged the auxiliary lamps from the wiring harness and none of the lights fail.
There is a separate relay in the right fuse box for the auxiliary lights. Could that be going bad?
Edited by lennyb 2013-08-12 8:11 PM
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Cruiser
Posts: 156 Bluff Park, Alabama - God's Country! 2011 PW VV | Update??? |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 803 Perry Hall, MD | Long term solution was to replace the headlamp circuit breaker (20 amp part # 4011372).
Decided not to start using the auxiliary lamps with the replacement 55 w bulbs after feeling how hot the wires were after only a couple of minutes of use. I'm waiting for a reply from PIAA regarding using their 1100 LED lamp bulbs in the housings or finding a supplier for the original 35 w bulbs.
Looking harder at the Clearwater Darla LED driving lights.
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