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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 18
| Hello, I was wondering if there was any advantage in using platinum plugs. They are good for 100k in my truck. Thanks Dan |
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | where did you find Platinum plugs for the vision? as far as i knew only the regular ngk plugs were avail for the vision... |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 18
| I found them at M.O.M advertised on this site under shop on line pure Victory gear and acc. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | what is the part number for them plugs? |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 18
| It does not say what brand they are but the part number is 2873740. I still would like to know if there is an advantage in using them. Thanks Dan |
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Visionary
Posts: 1340
Gainesville Fl Home of the Gators | Plugs last 30K in a Vic with no problems. Precious metal plugs offer little advantage in these bikes |
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | Kevinx - how do you get them to last that long. I am normally good for around 15k and the bike gets a little harder to start. Pulled the last set of plugs and they actually looked good. No major carbon buildup, nice brownish color.
The first set at 15K were very carbonized. I have ridden much harder / quicker acceleration, on this last set than the first time. Don't know if that has anything to do with it.
If I clean off the same set that I just pulled and put them back in, same problem with a little tougher start. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 18
| Thanks for the information, which caused me to save $40 Dan |
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Cruiser
Posts: 88
Lavon, TX | I have been washing my bike, parking it upright in my Condor stand, wiping it down, then applying Thunderbolt polish (spray on, then wipe off).
Found out from KevinX this past weekend that - after washing, I first need to blow compressed air around my plugs in order to prevent seepage of water in-between the boot and plug. Parking the wet bike on its kickstand (rather than upright in a stand) would help to drain but does NOT totally prevent this condition.
Liberal dose of silicone spray around the base of the spark plug boots will seal the area (thanks, Boudy).
Bike has about 16K, and the plugs need immediate replacement due to discoloration around the base of the insulator from water damage. Left untended, the engine heat will eventually crack the plug in this area.
Also found out that some of the O'Riley's automotive stores carry the stock NGK plugs for $2.19 each (thanks, Mark). |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 804
Perry Hall, MD | Looking at the information in this post I'm left to wonder if my bike came with the wrong plug wires - no boot to attempt to seal around the plug at all. As shown in photo this is a real problem from both a mechanical and aesthetic perspective.
Do I go back to the dealer or just order some other plug wire?
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 41
Litchfield Park, AZ | My 2009 Looks the same... same plug wire, same crud! |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | I've got tooooooooo much time on my hands.... |
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Cruiser
Posts: 117
Spring Hill, Tennessee | Before I start throwing new parts at the problem, I want to figure out why this happens?
My 09 does the same thing too?
How do you prevent this from happening? |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 804
Perry Hall, MD | Only happens when I wash and park. If I run it following the wash the water either evaporates or blows off.
Suggestion from KevinX earlier in thread to use compressed air to blow it out is sound, but I'd prefer to keep it out if there is a boot that would work. Planning a cross country trip next year and a little prevention to avoid changing out a plug with a cracked insulator in the middle of nowhere would be a very good thing.
I'm sure that there are some bikes that sit out in the rain and end up with the same problem. |
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Tourer
Posts: 432
Gettysburg, 2008 Tour Premium | I use a leaf blower after washing and blow most of the water off. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 619
Southeast Iowa | +1 on the leaf blower. Blow off bike. Wipe off remaining water with microfiber towel. Ride bike a few miles at speed. Then wipe off water that reappeared after the ride. Good to go with no water left anywhere. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | Just wondering if the plugs have some coating on them that is deteriorating and leaving this residue. Haven't seen that yet on mine. But I have changed my plugs once a year since 07. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 293
Arkansas | I just change plugs every 2nd oil change or so with the NGK at $2 plus change each. Only takes 5 minutes
to do- no worries! |
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Tourer
Posts: 404
San Antonio, TX United States | Response to plug wires. All Victory plugs wires for the freedom engines use the same boot. You have the correct plug wires.
The residue problem is worse for people that have harder water (more mineral content). Just pull the boot off and blow the recess out with air. You can always use a small squirt of a silicone type spray as well to help assist with the install and removal of the plug boot. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | I was thinking that maybe it was just calcium from hard water. but why would it just run off like that. HMMMM! Seems like it would just build up not runoff. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | Littlechick, there could also be some soap in the water along with the calcium. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 804
Perry Hall, MD | I've experienced this twice. Don't really have a hard water issue, but the soap residue is a possibility particularly since it does clean off of the mat engine surface fairly easily where I would expect a mineral stain to be more difficult.
If I'm not going to ride right after the wash, I'll have to go with the compressed air since the Mrs. will expect a full yard job if the leaf blower comes out.
Any chance that the aftermarket shields could help or are they more likely to conceal water sitting around the plug and increase the potential of a cracked plug? |
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Visionary
Posts: 1340
Gainesville Fl Home of the Gators | I vote for chemical reaction of the plating of the spark plug body, water, and aluminum causing the white residue. |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | don't wash, problem solved... |
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Cruiser
Posts: 228
| don't worry about an imagined problem.........problem solved |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 39
Brighton, MI | Hey varyder go play somewhere |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | i don't play q-tip... |
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Fountain Inn, SC United States | kevinx - 2009-11-12 9:34 PM
I vote for chemical reaction of the plating of the spark plug body, water, and aluminum causing the white residue.
Seems like the water pH would have to be way out of whack to cause that Kevin. I think its more an issue with hard water and soap residue.
To clean it up, one could try flushing with water and a brush, and then use some black engine enhancer spray on it. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 238
SF Bay Area | kevinx - 2009-11-12 6:34 PM
I vote for chemical reaction of the plating of the spark plug body, water, and aluminum causing the white residue.
Good guess Kevin... kinda like electrolysis & the zinc anode. I get it.
My guess? Just about any cleaner that is acidic will etch the surface of bare aluminum, like the Vision cylinder fins. This Aluminum oxide is water soluble and deposits itself on the black areas of the fins, and this along with "hard water" is causing the deposits.
The fix? remove the cylinder fin oxidization with something like simichrome polish, followed by a wax, and only use a base cleaner to wash the motor or anything near the motor, like mild car washing cleaner (surfactant), rinsing well with plenty of water and use compressed air to remove the remaining water (like the leaf blower, or compressed air). Hit the dried motor with S100 engine blackening spray.
Some weird sh!t, huh?
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