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Fountain Inn, SC United States | This is directed to those of us that have to put our bikes "away" during the winter.
What do you do to winterize your bike?
If I have more than 3kmi on the oil (Amsoil), I also change it in the Fall. Otherwise, in the past I've just adding stabilizer to the gas and hooked the battery tender up to the battery (still in bike). I'm always hoping for that special day when the streets are clear & dry for a winter ride. If there's no chance of getting the bike out for a run because of deep snow, I'll take the battery out and bring it in the house but that's like giving up hope!
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Tourer
Posts: 348
Sturbridge, Mass | Jedi Jeff - 2010-10-28 12:59 PM
This is directed to those of us that have to put our bikes "away" during the winter.
What do you do to winterize your bike?
If I have more than 3kmi on the oil (Amsoil), I also change it in the Fall. Otherwise, in the past I've just adding stabilizer to the gas and hooked the battery tender up to the battery (still in bike). I'm always hoping for that special day when the streets are clear & dry for a winter ride. If there's no chance of getting the bike out for a run because of deep snow, I'll take the battery out and bring it in the house but that's like giving up hope!
I'll get the obligatory out of the way... what is this thing winter you speak of ?
If under 1K on oil- leave
Wash
Stabil-tank
Battery Tender
Cover
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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | I think there is a section in the manual on storage, but I'm not sure because I ride in the winter here in Texas. 
Edited by VisionTex 2010-10-28 1:27 PM
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Cruiser
Posts: 82
Fargo, ND | Winter is that time of year when I find myself wondering why I even own a motorcycle. Here in Fargo, ND (you betcha) we only get about 5 months to ride. I have found myself looking at the thermometer to see if it is above freezing and the sun is out. If these two planets align then I take the vision out for a couple of hours. I must make it home by dusk or the roads freeze and ... well you know the rest. As for winterizing I change the oil and fill the gas full with some stabilizer in it. I am lucky enough to have a heated garage to store the VV and I do keep a battery keeper on it . In the depths of winter I sneek out into the garage and sit on her dreaming about Spring. Then I get off the bike, climb on the snowmobile and get into the wind!
Edited by stretch1956 2010-10-28 3:28 PM
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
Fargo, ND | Almost word for word what I do too! |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | stretch, I will not advocte any crazy stuff, but when I first started riding again I found my wanting to ride in the winter here in VA and wanted to know the ends and outs so I did an internet search. In that search I found a guy, and I can't remember where he's from, but he rides year round in the snow and ice, but he equips his bike for it. As far as I know he's still around and you can find him by doing a winter riding search, I'll try to check later myself. But this guy, as crazy as he is, has some good info if you're will to take the dive, er, step. Also, there is a bloke in england that has a youtube video, riding a motorcycle in the snow and ice. He's a medical dispatch courier and he rides year round in his job and has video to prove it.
Again, I don't advocate such foolishness, but where there is one, there's another. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 118
Capitol Region of NH | I put some stabilizer in the gas, full tank, put it up on a frame lift and plug it into a battery tender. That is all. You never know when a 50+ degree day may hit New England. I'm up for a ride, no matter how short, any time of year. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 141
| Wash......marine stabile...........cover........stuff in a corner ..........and hope for at least one good day over the season. Never used a tender on any bike eva! |
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Tourer
Posts: 599
New Mexico | After 25 years in Seattle, two years ago I implemented the ultimate, permanent winterizing procedure - We moved to New Mexico and ride year round!! |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| If you have a steal tank put gas in to the top. Stable is good and a tender saves us a $125 we hope. I have never started any of my bikes in the winter I think it creates moister in the motor and if it can't run for a half hour or more I am sure it does. I have heard of pulling the plugs and fogging the inner cylinders with oil but I think that was good in the old days. If your rings are good how does oil get past them and if you work the motor over will the oil not slid off.
I keep the tire up on some wood cause cement is not good for them over winter months. I have gone to good will and bought some bed blankest for a cheap price and have covered the VV.
Now I sit and wait like the rest of minnesota to have snow go away and never come back.
Why did I not buy a place in AZ. Dumb Dumb |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 623
| Gerbings heater liner and gloves.....been on a highway speed roll all day in the teens....don't do it!!! heated gear is cheaper than 1 winterizing |
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Tourer
Posts: 457
Green Bay, WI United States |  Once the snow flies and the salt has been put down on the roads it's very hard on all the aluminum and paint. On a side note last spring I left Central WI. to go to Tomahawk for service work with the temp @ 28 with no electric heated gear but I had plenty of layers on. As far as "fixn" the bike up for winter storage it gets an oil change no matter what the mileage, full tank of gas w/stabil and a kick to the gremlin bell to see if it's still in working order, hook the battery tender up and cover it so I don't see it giving me an flippin attitude about not riding it on a fair day (still too much salt residue on the road). Will be different this winter as I have had "Hot Rod" (TCD) for a couple of years and now "Twister" (Vision) has arrived. Small garage so I am hoping I won't need to go and seperate them this winter. Am sure I will need to buy a half cover to put those "bitchin" headlights away on "Twister" so "Hot Rod" does not get any ideas. I see him eyeing up her "HID" if you know what I mean. Hey all bull aside I have learned so much from all of you, Thanks!!!
Ride hard, ride fast, but above all ride safe........
Wildman |
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Tourer
Posts: 457
Green Bay, WI United States | Sorry but I just remembered what 3 dealer's told me: wash, wax and detail before putting up for the winter. He told me that Victory paint and crome is great as long as it's taken care of before being stored for the winter. The other thought that came to my shallow brain is that starting any bike in below 35 degree weather and not letting it come up to full operating temp will cause internal mosture. Trust me I won't be starting "Twister" because "Hot Rod" would know about the moisture. Have a great weekend..... |
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Tourer
Posts: 457
Green Bay, WI United States |  It's all about hope, one way or the other!!! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 185
Rhode Island | Fresh oil, add StarBrite gas enzyme, fill tank, roll up on plywood, plug in battery charger, clean and polish, cover, start it up every 2 weeks for 5 minutes (heated storage) add new toys to it. Won't ride until heavy rains wash salt away usually off road Dec - March.
Jim |
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Tourer
Posts: 401
| Never needed a tender before, but these bikes like them. I went through 1 battery and 2 regulators (jumping with cars running and high amp charging), and decided it was time.
Since then winter is a simple 2 stepper
1. plug in a tender.
2. start the bike once or twice each month and run for 10 - 15 minutes.
Stabul has a good marketing program and I'm far from sold on that snake oil.
Did I say OIL? |
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Visionary
Posts: 1350
| What is the purpose of starting any motor and letting it run for 10-15 minutes? Maybe in the old days oil would drip off the parts and you might end up with a "dry" but not with the synthetics. If I start any of them I am going to go for a ride.
Last year when I went through my cancer treatment, both bikes and the Ranchero sat all winter long with just a battery tender. Spring came and Anny and the Ranchero started and ran fine. The Ranchero brakes tend to pulse until she has a few miles on her. I did not start the '99 till this Sept. Fired up fine but both tires were flat. Put air in them and off we went.
Marine Stabil is good if there is a chance you have rubber seals and/or hoses somewhere like in an old boat motor, bike or car. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 742
North Orange County CA | sgiacci - 2010-11-01 9:24 AM
Never needed a tender before, but these bikes like them. I went through 1 battery and 2 regulators (jumping with cars running and high amp charging), and decided it was time.
These bikes NEED them if they're going to sit for long; especially if you have a weak or old battery.
My guess is that the instruments are the source of the current draw that causes the bike to need a battery tender.
The Clock and perhaps(not sure) even the radio memory for things like the last station (or the last song on your ipod) you were on before you shut down, are going to need some power to maintain them when the bike is parked. |
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Tourer
Posts: 401
| Why do you want to run your machine? Simple - machines don't like to sit. When they do, condensation builds up "inside" the motor, and condensation can lead to oxidation (rust). There is no additive (stay - bullshirt) that can prevent this. I'm sorry, but I have to laugh when folks tell me how great stabil works for their "fuel injected" motors.
Running the motor brings it up to a temperature that will evaporate any condensation that has built up inside the motor. This condition is even worse in zones where there are large temperature swings, humidity, or salt air environments.
The key is to run the motor after it has reached its operating temperature for at least 10 - 15 minutes in order get most of the water out of the motor. If you are in a zone with a combination of 2 of the items I mentioned above, you should run the motor for a little bit longer time. |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | I would reckon that one of the reasons that I continue to ride as I believe sitting does no good to any mechanical thing. Oh course, I love to ride everyday, and I'm thankful that I can do that for the winter months in Va. I'm not really sure what I would do if I was in the North Country and not able to ride because of the roads. I would think that just simply starting it and letting it run would do it any good, I would have to put it up on a block and run the wheel through some gears too, and get the motor good and hot. Of course, that is also burning gas, but just idling would definitely not be good as the cylinders would load up with fuel.
I'm sure the North Folks know what works the best and it could be shared with all. Age of the machine, and any problems from, whether you felt was storage related or not would be good to know. |
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Tourer
Posts: 401
| varyder - 2010-11-03 10:00 AM
I would reckon that one of the reasons that I continue to ride as I believe sitting does no good to any mechanical thing. Oh course, I love to ride everyday, and I'm thankful that I can do that for the winter months in Va. I'm not really sure what I would do if I was in the North Country and not able to ride because of the roads. I would think that just simply starting it and letting it run would do it any good, I would have to put it up on a block and run the wheel through some gears too, and get the motor good and hot. Of course, that is also burning gas, but just idling would definitely not be good as the cylinders would load up with fuel.
I'm sure the North Folks know what works the best and it could be shared with all. Age of the machine, and any problems from, whether you felt was storage related or not would be good to know.
Learned this from the old school boys many years ago while growing up in up-state New York. The difference back then was that bikes didn't have EFI, and they would load up the cyclinders. Hence reving up (not rapping - smooth, high rpms) the motor to blow it out just before you shut it down.
Today, with EFI, loading up the cyclinders is almost a thing of the past, along with your carbs varnishing and clogging up. |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | Got this from a biker email newsletter that I subscribe to: Winter is coming, is your bike ready?
10 tips to make sure it is.* - Check your tire pressure and make sure it's at the recommended setting.
- Place your motorcycle on the center stand if you have one; otherwise it's a good idea to purchase a lift. This effectively relieves the weight from tires and suspension.
- Place a thin layer of cardboard between your tires and the floor. Rotate the position of your tires periodically to prevent the formation of flat spots.
- Purchase and install a battery tender. You can do this without removing the battery and it keeps your battery fully charged as long as the tender is plugged in. Check the specifications of battery and tender before using.
- Change your oil and filter.
- Fill your gas tank and add fuel stabilizer as per the directions and let it run for a few minutes. If your bike is carbureted, drain the carbs. There may be a mechanism for doing this on your bike; you can also turn off the gas supply to the carbs and letting your engine run until it runs out of gas.
- Clean and dry your bike thoroughly. Wax liberally. You may even apply a thin layer of oil to chrome and metal parts to deter the formation of rust.
- Plug the air filter intake; also the exhaust pipe(s). It deters little critters from making nests in them.
- Clean and liberally lube your drive chain if you have one.
- Cover your bike loosely with a good quality cover to keep dust off and avoid condensation from forming.
Remember when in doubt refer to your owners manual for best practices concerning your specific make of bike.
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Cruiser
Posts: 273
Midlothian, Va. | Tender yes, start the bike yes but only to ride it. Retired I can pick my days if only for a couple of hours but never to just start it and not go anywhere. A couple of carpet squares is a nice touch for the tires. I have already noticed that this bike will lengthen my riding season with the great wind management although I was looking for all that engine heat I had in the summer when I jumped on it for a 30 mile trip in 38 degree temps. BTW, what is the deal with the cold air running up the back of my neck, damn that wasn't fun. |
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Tourer
Posts: 401
| varyder - 2010-11-04 8:37 AM
Got this from a biker email newsletter that I subscribe to: Winter is coming, is your bike ready?
10 tips to make sure it is.*� - Check your tire pressure and make sure it's at the recommended setting.
- Place your motorcycle on the center stand if you have one; otherwise it's a good idea to purchase a lift. This effectively relieves the weight from tires and suspension.
- Place a thin layer of cardboard between your tires and the floor. Rotate the position of your tires periodically to prevent the formation of flat spots.
- Purchase and install a battery tender. You can do this without removing the battery and it keeps your battery fully charged as long as the tender is plugged in. Check the specifications of battery and tender before using.
- Change your oil and filter.
- Fill your gas tank and add fuel stabilizer as per the directions and let it run for a few minutes. If your bike is carbureted, drain the carbs. There may be a mechanism for doing this on your bike; you can also turn off the gas supply to the carbs and letting your engine run until it runs out of gas.
- Clean and dry your bike thoroughly. Wax liberally. You may even apply a thin layer of oil to chrome and metal parts to deter the formation of rust.
- Plug the air filter intake; also the exhaust pipe(s). It deters little critters from making nests in them.
- Clean and liberally lube your drive chain if you have one.
- Cover your bike loosely with a good quality cover to keep dust off and avoid condensation from forming.
Remember when in doubt refer to your owners manual for best practices concerning your specific make of bike.
Holy crap, by the time you get all this done it'll be spring again!!! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
Fargo, ND | That's the object! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 277
Apopka, FL | What is "winterizing"??? |
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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | Dr., for us, it is GTO...gas, tires, oil! |
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What's your Winterizing procedure?