It's not easy but it can be done. I only removed the cowl cover and raised the windshield to replace the bulb. I was able to replace the bulb in about 30 minutes.
It helps if you can see what you are feeling so I added pictures. (I installed an HID, this is my old headlight)
Remove the headlight plug and pull the rubber cover off. Note the cover tab faces down. The bulbs are held in with spring clips. Push the clip down and move it to the brake lever side of the bike to release it. Lift the clip up and remove the bulb. Do not remove or loosen the screw that holds the clip.
Install the new bulb and re-hook the clip. Do not touch the glass on the bulb. Install the rubber cover. Make sure that you can feel all three prongs on the bulb. Note the center terminal on the bulb faces up. Install the plug.
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