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Cruiser
Posts: 244
Lindale, TX | Last week I changed oil in 105 Texas heat. I rode my 2008 vision for 30 minutes. I let it cool for 15 minutes before draining oil and removing filter. I added 4 quarts and ran for a couple of minutes. I then added oil until it was full on dip stick standing straight up. It took a full 5 quarts to get it to the full mark.
I usually only need 4.5 quarts. Today I checked again. Right at full cold. I guess the heat this time of year thins oil enough to drain more efficiently and 5 quarts was right. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2118
Pitt Meadows, BC Canada | WOW ! That's all I can say.... WOW !
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Cruiser
Posts: 162
Northern NJ | I'm liking the Mobil 1 V-Twin oil, and so are my Visions. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 742
North Orange County CA | OILCHANGE ANOMALY CONTEST - ENTER BEST/ MOST CREATIVE EXPLANATION FOR THE ORIGINAL POST.
DONETRACEY IS JUDGE! (Given his expertise in the area)
My entry.
Exxon has decided to sell Mobile 1 by weight rather than volume, just like corn flakes.
If Easttexasrider digs the cans out of the re-cycle bin, somewhere on the label the words "Some settling may occur during shipment" will be printed, thus explaining the 1/2 quart "discrepancy".
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Cruiser
Posts: 117
Kansas City, MO | be nice |
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Visionary
Posts: 2118
Pitt Meadows, BC Canada | Sorry - I'm just ignorant.
A HD riding pal of mine pointed out a gizmo that I had never noticed in my 3 1/2 years of ownership. He called it a "Dip Stick" - is that right?
Anyway - it's not something I missed, so I will probably forget about it by next week.
I remember with the old Chevy's and Ford's - they had something like that that you pulled out once in a while - and then put it back in. Must have been a reason why - but at my age I can't remember. My DEALER does all the maintainance stuff and I have never had a complaint. I do look at the garage floor for any stuff that shouldn't be there, and I look to make sure the tires don't look flat, but that's it.
Oh yeah - and I put gas in it when the warning comes on - or I need a pee.
So - yeah - I'm sorry if I make the odd remark about some of the wierd shit you guys do. I'm just amazed, that's all ....
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
Lindale, TX | donetracey - 2011-07-18 1:32 AM WOW ! That's all I can say.... WOW ! I guess since I can't complain about anything on my Vision I'm running out of things to report on. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
Lindale, TX | You are not ignorant Don..just an old $^& *^#@ Have a good day, Aye
Edited by Easttexasrider 2011-07-21 3:01 PM
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Tourer
Posts: 390
| Just a query...if the oil is multi viscosity i.e.5w/20...do we need to heat it to get the best drain? My thinking is that the oil is designed to flow quickly when cold and thicken on heating. Our fathers only used single viscosity oils because that is what was available so heating it made sense.....or am I just trying to stretch out this thread?? |
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Tourer
Posts: 457
Green Bay, WI United States | All oil should be drained at temp. The multi-ves oil is not any different. It just flows at a different temp. The key is to drain AMAP out of the crankcase.
Ride hard, ride fast, but above all ride safe and free.....
8-ball/wildman
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Visionary
Posts: 2118
Pitt Meadows, BC Canada | Easttexasrider - 2011-07-21 12:54 PM You are not ignorant Don..just an old $^& *^#@ Have a good day, Aye You're right - and I have the credentials :
(Old Farts sm.jpg)
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Visionary
Posts: 1229
Rancho Cucamonga, CA | chesshiretuna - 2011-07-21 1:31 PM
My thinking is that the oil is designed to flow quickly when cold and thicken on heating.
I've never heard of motor oil thickening when heated?!?
Edited by Nozzledog 2011-07-21 5:05 PM
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
Lindale, TX | donetracey - 2011-07-21 4:15 PM Easttexasrider - 2011-07-21 12:54 PM You are not ignorant Don..just an old $^& *^#@ Have a good day, Aye You're right - and I have the credentials : Great come back Don. I like those credentials. Ride safe. |
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Tourer
Posts: 390
| Nozzledog - 2011-07-21 5:05 PM
chesshiretuna - 2011-07-21 1:31 PM
My thinking is that the oil is designed to flow quickly when cold and thicken on heating.
I've never heard of motor oil thickening when heated?!?
So explain "Muli-viscosity Oil"???10W40.....5W20.....I'm no expert......someone....anyone....???
This is from Wikipedia
Multi-gradeThe temperature range the oil is exposed to in most vehicles can be wide, ranging from cold temperatures in the winter before the vehicle is started up, to hot operating temperatures when the vehicle is fully warmed up in hot summer weather. A specific oil will have high viscosity when cold and a lower viscosity at the engine's operating temperature. The difference in viscosities for most single-grade oil is too large between the extremes of temperature. To bring the difference in viscosities closer together, special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers, or VIIs are added to the oil. These additives are used to make the oil a multi-grade motor oil, though it is possible to have a multi-grade oil without the use of VIIs. The idea is to cause the multi-grade oil to have the viscosity of the base grade when cold and the viscosity of the second grade when hot. This enables one type of oil to be generally used all year. In fact, when multi-grades were initially developed, they were frequently described as all-season oil. The viscosity of a multi-grade oil still varies logarithmically with temperature, but the slope representing the change is lessened.[8] This slope representing the change with temperature depends on the nature and amount of the additives to the base oil.
The SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two viscosity grades; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The two numbers used are individually defined by SAE J300 for single-grade oils. Therefore, an oil labeled as 10W-30 must pass the SAE J300 viscosity grade requirement for both 10W and 30, and all limitations placed on the viscosity grades (for example, a 10W-30 oil must fail the J300 requirements at 5W). Also, if an oil does not contain any VIIs, and can pass as a multi-grade, that oil can be labelled with either of the two SAE viscosity grades. For example, a very simple multi-grade oil that can be easily made with modern base oils without any VII is a 20W-20. This oil can be labeled as 20W-20, 20W, or 20. Note, if any VIIs are used however, then that oil cannot be labeled as a single grade.
The real-world ability of an oil to crank or pump when cold is potentially diminished soon after it is put into service. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle (although some modern European cars now have no viscosity requirement), but can vary from country to country when climatic or fuel efficiency constraints come into play.
So the last paragraph makes me wonder about oil change intervals discussed here......
I have read on the VMC that a bike engine was destroyed by the owner using single viscosity oil in it.
Does the oils loss of cold cranking lubrication( meaning a shorter engine life), be the reason to change every 2500 to 3000 miles???
Edited by chesshiretuna 2011-07-22 1:08 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 1632
Jasper, MO | Wikipedia? Really? Hell, even I can be an author on Wikipedia, or you, or anyone else. I don't rely on Wikipedia for any real information.
How about going to an oil manufacturer's website for an explanation. http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/
Ronnie |
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Tourer
Posts: 390
| I read this and it has the same explanation as my post. Thanks for the link as it confirms what I originally said. So my question remains" Do we need to heat the oil when draining?" Just trying to get people thinking about this. I do not think the justification for an action "That is the way we always do it" to be the best course of action. Improving technologies should mean improving techniques. IMHO |
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Visionary
Posts: 2118
Pitt Meadows, BC Canada | When I worked in a Service Station in the 60's - I was taught to 'warm up' a car if it had been sitting for more than an hour - before changing the oil.
This was to ensure any contaminates were not sitting in the pan - but were 'stirred up' and would drain with the oil, and so that the oil would drain completely and freely. So, before putting the vehicle on the hoist, I would let it idle for at least 5 minutes.
To this day, I'm not sure about the 'stirring' thing - I would hope the filter would handle that. But I do know that warm oil drains better.... and I was taught this by the Manager 50 years ago.
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Iron Butt
Posts: 742
North Orange County CA | Last weekend I decided to change the oil in the BWM. I hadn't ridden it in 6 months and at the last oil change I had put in Castrol Synthetic 10w40. I wanted to take it for ride but the air temp was in the 90s and projected to go higher so I decided that a new dose of 20w50 was probably in order. Especially if I encountered any traffic.
After some some fiddle farting around cleaning the carbs (thanks to the requirement for alcohol to be added to the fuel) it fired up and I let the old airhead warm up to operating temperature.
I loosened the drain plug, and after an initial flow of about a quart of dirty oil it slowed to a dribble. Then a couple of long blobs that looked like cat poo came out of the drain followed by the rest of the oil .
Decided to drop the oil pan as a precaution. Surprisingly it looked normal so after cleaning the pan and installing a new oil filter I bolted the old girl back together. The I rode the Vision back to the Autozone to swap the 20w50 synthetic for old school 20w50 GTX. I have no idea if the synthetic oil is the cause of the "blobs" but I have never seen that in Dino oil no matter how long the bike sat.
All this is taking the long way around to say that I doubt that the oil would have drained at all without the engine being hot. But your results may vary. |
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