|
|
Cruiser
Posts: 102 Parkersburg WV | Hi All, I need to take my trunk apart and I believe there are 2 bolts behind the mirror. Any tips on how to remove it without breaking it ?
Thanks, Bob Scott |
|
|
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 935 Rockford, IL | I would use a hair dryer on high to get the mirror nice and hot and then a pic tool to get behind the mirror.
Would think that slow and steady would be the key to not breaking it. |
|
|
|
Cruiser
Posts: 160 Lennox, SD | maybe fishing line to cut through the glue after heating it up |
|
|
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 721
| Once you successfully remove the mirror do what I did, go to you local hardware store and buy two small hinges approximately 3/4 x 1 1/2" long (folded), 3M VHB double sided adhesive tape (usually gray with red film covering), and one 1/2" long self tapping screw (I used a #8). The mirror housing appears to have been made to have the mirror hinged but some bean counter probably nixed the feature due to the extra couple of bucks it would add. Take the tape and apply it to both side of the hinge as it is closed (you might need two layers on each side), mount the hinges into the housing then press the mirror back into place (having removed all previous old tape from the back of the mirror and housing), once the mirror is mounted then drill a small pilot hole at the top arc of the mirror and install the self tapping screw. Once you are done you will no longer have to fight to remove the mirror to service anything between the double sided trunk lid AND you will have a neat little storage compartment for things like your registration or emergency cash. |
|
|
|
Cruiser
Posts: 169 Iowa | Goo Gone and dental floss might do the trick on the adhesive. |
|
|
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 785 Mt. Vernon, WASH. | Or .025 stainless steel safety wire which WON'T break like floss could. (see your local private airport's parts counter, a 1 lb. roll should A) cost you $5 and B) last you the rest of your life) I've got two partial rolls I've had for 34 years and ain't used 'em up yet! |
|
|
|
Cruiser
Posts: 102 Parkersburg WV | Thanks guys for your help !!!! I 1st tried floss and it was too weak and broke. I sprayed some wd-40 under the mirror and used some cord and it did the trick.
I like your idea about hinging it back on. I will do that........
Thanks, Bob Scot |
|
|
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 721
| Bob, I forgot to mention that there are two recesses that the hinges get mounted into, they should be very noticeable now that you have the mirror off. |
|
|
|
Tourer
Posts: 492 Indianapolis, IN | I try to use the stick on velcro squares you can get at most hardware and department stores, usually in the same spot they sell glues and adhesives. A 3/4" square on the back at each corner makes a solid attachment that is easily removeable if needed.
Also a very fine guitar string would probably work good for getting the factory adhesive tape loose. Or possible some 10# test or smaller monofilament fishing line. |
|
|
|
Visionary
Posts: 4278
| There two screws behind the mirror "BUT" they don't hold the panel in place. You have to un bolt the panel to get at them.
 (trunk.jpg)
Attachments ----------------
trunk.jpg (67KB - 1 downloads)
|
|
|
|
Visionary
Posts: 3006 San Antonio, TX | SYNSTR - 2011-08-04 10:04 PM
Or .025 stainless steel safety wire which WON'T break like floss could. (see your local private airport's parts counter, a 1 lb. roll should A) cost you $5 and B) last you the rest of your life) I've got two partial rolls I've had for 34 years and ain't used 'em up yet!
An old guitar string would work as well. Like an unwound G String. Wait, that might be confusing to some....better stick to the safety ware. |
|
|
|
Visionary
Posts: 3006 San Antonio, TX | hoosiervic - 2011-08-05 7:52 AM
Also a very fine guitar string would probably work good for getting the factory adhesive tape loose. Or possible some 10# test or smaller monofilament fishing line.
We think alike.
BTW, I like the hinge idea! |
|
|
|
Visionary
Posts: 4278
| YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE inner PANEL TO GET AT THE TWO BOLTS |
|
|