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Visionary
Posts: 2026
Brighton, TN | If I can remember ill post pics and and see if I can get a baseline for how well the wore out stock rotors work and the new ones. They sure look putty. They look drilled online but they are small reliefs drilled in the pattern. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2026
Brighton, TN | Jsp since it did come in the classic timetested, performance oriented brown box, I can understand how he got confused. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2026
Brighton, TN | Pics of rotor |
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Visionary
Posts: 2026
Brighton, TN | Stock configuration
hard braking from 60-0 MPH:
Front rotor 110 degrees Fahrenheit
Rear rotor 160 deg
Distance
best of 5- 94 ft
Run 1 - 95
Run 2 -114
Run 3 - 110
Run 4 - 94
Run 5 - 96
Run up to 60the cruising along and emergency braking, not covering any pedals or leverage. |
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | Interesting that the rear rotor is that much hotter. I suppose it's because of a lack of fresh, cool air to ventilate them. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2026
Brighton, TN | That was after about a couple of minutes after I parked it and said hey I got one of those cool temp doodads. |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| So the rear rotor is only one.. Rear brakes are not made to stop you. Only a fool would think so.
Front breaks stop you. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2026
Brighton, TN | John this one would be where you would need to explain more, cuz I Just don't understand. I don't think anyone was discussing use of rear brake only. |
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Tourer
Posts: 337
san antonio, tx | john frey - 2012-03-17 4:52 PM
So the rear rotor is only one.. Rear brakes are not made to stop you. Only a fool would think so.
Front breaks stop you.
OK, I'll bite..... What are the back rotor, caliper, and pads for?
I guess I'll just take them off. One less thing to clean and maintain. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 226
on the edge of Los Angeles | pollolittle - 2012-03-17 6:33 AM Pics of rotor Get them mounted and tested yet? Pics please
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Visionary
Posts: 2026
Brighton, TN | This would be the Lyndall thread and brake pads. I need to change the brake fluid and test again. And update thread what the difference was.
Edited by pollolittle 2015-04-14 1:28 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| rear rotor is for slowing you down and assist you in stopping. Why do you think they put two rotors up front. When you break with the front break the front forks dive down forcing the wheel to bit in and stop.
All other bikes not vision you lock up rear wheel you'll go into a slid and crash.
Look at all dressers they have two rotors up front for stopping. Look at race bikes they have eleven inch rotors up front and a eight inch rotor in rear. Cause the read slows you down it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-f34n_74oM |
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Cruiser
Posts: 60
Wichita, KS | Another BIG plus for the Lyndall pads not yet mentioned. Since installing the Gold Plus pads, I don't have the black brake soot problems that the OEM pads produced. I have some, but nothing when compared to the OEM pads.
Edited by Bodacious 2015-04-15 11:28 PM
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Cruiser
Posts: 190
| So while I'm getting a new rear tire put on my 2010 last Thursday, the mechanic takes me out to the shop and shows me how "loose" the rotor is on the rear. I'm surprised because the bike has a little less than 31,000 miles on the clock. Anyway, he says it won't be a problem but I should replace the rotor when I get my next rear tire. I had to replace a front rotor on my '97 Concours at 150,000 miles..and that was because I ran almost a full month with metal-to-metal contact before I could replace the brake pads. But the rotor was still tight. Loose rotor or buttons, especially at 31,000 miles, are NOT impressing me in a happy way.
I know this is an old thread here but I'm liking what I see about the Lyndall button kit and it would be WAY cheaper than replacing a rotor that really is in good shape. Is this loose rotor a common issue with Victory. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1632
Jasper, MO | Victory uses a floating rotor design and some movement is normal. In fact, if the buttons seize up and the rotor doesn't float, you often end up with a warped rotor.
Ronnie |
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Cruiser
Posts: 154
Danbury, Connecticut | pollolittle - 2015-04-14 1:26 PM
This would be the Lyndall thread and brake pads. I need to change the brake fluid and test again. And update thread what the difference was.
Pollolittle, What's the current status/opinion of your Lyndall brakes? I went to their site and I don't even see rotors listed for a Vision. I was going to contact them but figured I'd see what your thoughts were first. Thanks, Steve |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 23
Longmont, CO | Pollolittle, I got your post on my thread on my wheels. Maybe you can post up here what you wrote here just to close the loop on your thoughts of the Ceramic Rotors and pads. You got me more than a little hesitant on going this route now. Mike
Edited by TheMike 2016-03-29 11:55 AM
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Visionary
Posts: 2026
Brighton, TN | Part 1: Ok, it appears I let it slide on catching up on this post. I still haven't done the 60-0 test with the Lyndall Rotors and pads.
On March 5, 2012, mileage 63,000. I installed the rotors and pads. The front Rotors had to have 3 or 4 different sets sent to me. I installed the first set and the front wheel seem to spin on the bike, rode it around the block and found the were getting scrapes on the surface of the rotor. The rotor was dragging on a boss sticking out on the front forks. Paul, said he would send me another set, they also drug in the same area, so he decided he would have them milled to move the rotor over away from the boss. Took a couple of tries and, of course, he started to get irritated with sending them back and forth, I?m thinking I just spent a small fortune on them and he?s getting irritated, jeesh. It takes approximately 2 millings to get it within the range.
Finally got the front taken care of and now on to the back brake. Being extremely skeptical at this point, I start to critique the back brake. It is 5mm thick and the stock one was 7mm thick. So, I ask him if he was going to supply the back rotor in the thicker size. He says yes, but I have yet to see this magically appear. Multiple calls and multiple e-mails and still I have a 5mm back rotor on. He has told me on multiple occasions, since that was outgoing stock and new designs coming out that he would make it right for all the help and R&D I was doing. That hasn?t happened either.
When I first put them on, I attempted to repeat my 60-0 stops, and I could pull the brake handle and push the foot brake all the way down. Checked the fluid, it was up to the full lines. I didn't open the system and the only change was the pads and rotors. So, a call back, to Lyndall, and he says they have to embed in first, etc, etc. quite nervous to say the least.
So, I keep riding and the brake handle is getting stiffer and the foot brake, all better, everything, seems to be bedding in. Then it rains and I damn near wind up in a ditch, due to unable to scrub just a bit of speed. I'm already going slower than normal and need to make a 125 degree left, I go to pull in handles and pressure on foot brake and nothing is happening, the brake handle collapses to the grip and the floor brake goes to the floor. Seems all that crap washes right back off. I wind up on the side of the road, trying to readjust my newly loaded pants "AGAIN"! If anybody who has followed any of my sagas will attest to a bit of pant loading happens occasionally. So, now I'm a bit skeptical as to his embedding phenomenon!
So, I keep riding and the brake handle is getting stiffer and the foot brake, all better, everything, seems to be bedding in. Then it rains and I damn near wind up in a ditch, due to unable to scrub just a bit of speed. I'm already going slower than normal and need to make a 125 degree left, I go to pull in handles and pressure on foot brake and nothing is happening, the brake handle collapses to the grip and the floor brake goes to the floor. Seems all that crap washes right back off. I wind up on the side of the road, trying to readjust my newly loaded pants "AGAIN"! If anybody who has followed any of my sagas will attest to a bit of pant loading happens occasionally. So, now I'm a bit skeptical as to his embedding phenomenon!
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Visionary
Posts: 2026
Brighton, TN | Part deux:
I go back through checking all my points and connections. Decide I need to change the brake fluid and it makes quite a bit of difference. I can no longer pull the brake handle to the grip or the foot brake collapse. So, it appears, as quite a few on this site have attested to, the need to keep fresh brake fluid in the system. Don?t ask me why, but it seems this system is susceptible to varying degrees of air, water, or contamination, etc.
Last night, ambient temperature around 55 degrees. I do a mini retest, since this subject is on my mind. The brakes seem to scrub speed better without locking up, if you keep pulling on the brake they will eventually lock up, but it takes a bit. That is why they are probably the preferred braking material. Dissipate heat quickly and grab heavily without the lockup included. I almost wound up riding the tank, it scrubbed so much speed, so quickly.
For the aesthetic side of these items. I don?t find there is any embedding to work with. You rarely have brake dust to worry about. That right there is awesome in and of itself, if you are always attempting to keep the ride, shiny. The rotors never rust, they are carbon ceramic. The black of the rotor surface stays black, and so long as you ensure you have pad material and don?t get down to metal, the rotor should last a very LONG time. There is no lip on the outer or inner edges, it just stays smooth all the way out. They don?t rattle, or squeal, or NVH. So, all around on prettiness or bling or DaMn that?s cool, It?s a win, win.
So, onto wet performance, during the rainy days of spring, caution is greatly appreciated. If you understand how they work and are willing to accommodate for their nature, it is workable. When using these brakes in wet, I have to accommodate for the time it takes to dry the rotor and generate a smidge of heat. Seems I pull on the handle just enough to start friction, takes about a second, and then they work almost as if they were dry. If you need them in a hurry, just be aware, if you grab a handful of brake, they will take a second before they get hungry and grab aggressively. There is a built in delay, of soft, then, oh there they are. I have to grab and then be aware of when they dry and then let back off the pressure, so I don?t shut down quicker than I wanted. Since changing the brake fluid, I haven?t had any oh crappola moments, but it?s a learning curve, which would be well spent learning and adapting to it.
As noted above, I put them on at 63,000, and now have almost 100k. So right at 37k, I have to check tonight the pad thickness and get back to you. But no vibration or squeal, rarely any brake dust, very little to keep clean. Awesome, if you enjoy the chrome or less cleaning aspect of it all. At first, I was very dead set, against, getting them or recommending them to anyone. When you find your way off the pavement in a turn, it kinda skews your judgement. But, since getting the bugs fixed and fluid changed. They are probably some of the best in performance dry, I have ever experienced. Hot into corners, and they just have a progressive braking feel, without a jump from heavy braking to locked braking. Without a doubt, better than stock. The wet performance is as good as stock so long as you LEARN.
Would I buy from Lyndall again? It seems he is still out there and for me to maintain the lifetime warranty, I have to use his pads. So, I will continue to increase his bottom line, by purchasing his pads. I will continue until he proves, his warranty is no longer valid. Going into a big purchase with him again, he would have to earn my trust a wee bit, before I were to bite again. I have another bike I would like to put carbon ceramic on, but until there is a bit more trust between us, I?ll stick with stock on it, for now. There are great reviews about him and the products he sells. I was enthused at the get go, cause he had something different and better. A little better communication and accommodating for a consumer helping him develop his product would be even better. Maybe it was my own jaded sense of spending close to a thousand buckaroos, which makes it all the more nervous, when you have never dealt with a company or the owner before. Then there are problems to work through, I would love to have tried out his new designs and see what he meant by making the agreement good, or he would make it up to me. I had a good number which soon got changed, and the last e-mail from him was a couple of years ago. Maybe he had life experiences to go through, who knows. This, of course, is just my experience.
I?d buy these types of brakes again, just because I know now what it takes to make them work. I gotta find a day to test?em and see.
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Lyndall Rotors and Pads
