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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Soon I am going to be removing my rear wheel, and taking it in to an independent shop to mount a new E3 that I have waiting.
Do most of you either remove; or have the tech remove the rear sprocket from the wheel first (to prevent damage to it)? Or can they easily work around it with the tire irons and such?
I know the sprocket needs to be on when the wheel is balanced. I just am wondering if there is a propensity of these rear sprockets being damaged during tire replacement. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 802
| Most of the tire machines like mine have clearance for the pulley so they don't have to remove it. BTW, Vic recommends replacing the pulley bolts if they are removed. Probably hardly anyone does though.
Marc |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | my dealer pulls it, and I pulled it when I change the tire myself. Marc, people like you is the reason I have ridemares... |
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | The first tire shop I went to I brought them the wheel and they had to remove the pulley. Second time I went to another shop. I rode the bike in for them to remove the wheel for me. I told them the pulley had to come off. They felt they knew better than me and gouged the sh*t out of my chrome Ness pulley, before having to remove it anyway. I wish I had seen the damage sooner, it took ma a couple of weeks to notice. It's 5 bolts. Now I just remove it. I feel I have control over my stuff. Re-torque to 60 ft/lb.
Edited by cw1115 2014-03-28 11:28 AM
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | 
I have kept to myself what the now defunct dealer did to my bike in other areas and then tried to hide it. Fortunately, you can't see it and I'm the only one who knows, and of course, "the tech" that did it, but never said anything. But it burns me when folks do that and hope you don't notice. Back in the day, we had to be trained to change tires on mag or chromed wheels for cars. If you weren't trained. you didn't touch it. If you messed it up, the boss would buy a new wheel, then took it out of your hide. That's the way it suppose to be done.
Edited by varyder 2014-03-28 12:28 PM
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Tourer
Posts: 324
New Orleans, La, | When I needed my first tyre change I bought a tyre changing machine from the now defunct Tyre Stripper. I think it is the best damn machine ever made and my only regret is that they went out of business. I change my rear with the sproket onbecause the machine was designed to work that way. I have done billet and chrome wheels without damge to them. Training and theright equiptment make all the difference in the world. I agree with Varyder that if you can't do the job without damage don't f@#k with it. A friend of mine had a tyre replaced on his Suzuki Intruder LC and weeks latter found he had a bent rear rim, major expense. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | marcparnes - 2014-03-28 10:32 AM
Most of the tire machines like mine have clearance for the pulley so they don't have to remove it. BTW, Vic recommends replacing the pulley bolts if they are removed. Probably hardly anyone does though.
Marc I think you're right about that. I was at Chesapeake Cycles yesterday; and the general feeling amongst the staff was that you could simply reuse the bolts, rather than replacing them. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 25
| The shop I take my wheels to does not remove the pulley. The proper tool should have clearance for pulleys and if it doesn't then the tire can still be removed the old fashioned way by using tire spoons and wheel protectors.
As for replacing the bolts, Victory recommends replacing many bolts that are removed from their locations. I could be misinformed but I've heard that the main reason is that the stock bolts have already have a dry thread locking coating to them. Once removed that thread locker wont work anymore & new bolts are therefore recommended. However, if you simply use a drop or two of thread locker when reinstalling bolts you should be good to go. |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| Lot of machine jaws will clear find out when you get there. If they pull the pulley remeber the sprockets nuts have to be torque and not by a air ratchet.
I got real pissy with the tire store when I had tires put on my truck. They used a air impacted and said it was dialed for 90 pounds. So I told them to prove it or they will have trouble collecting the money.
No torque wrench in the tire store so they went and bough one. Guess what way over torque. If you ever been at side of road with a flat and couldn't get the nuts off |
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | !+ Johnny. I had a towing business a long time ago. I can't count the number of cars I towed cause wheels fell off days after being at the tire shop or had snapped studs first time they got a flat. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 802
Perry Hall, MD | IMPORTANT to put sprocket retainer nuts back on properly - Flat side IN (toward washer / wheel) - tapered side facing out. A previous member had his sprocket came off while on a trip many miles from home and the suspicion is that the nuts were put back on with the tapered side facing the sprocket. Easy but costly, potentially dangerous, and extremely inconvenient mistake. |
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Rear tire remounting question (regarding sprocket)
