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 Gonna Buy a 2009 Vision - Need Advice ASAPJump to page : 1 2 Now viewing page 1 [25 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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WingMan71 |
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Puddle Jumper Posts: 30 Atlanta, GA | Newbie here! My best friend is headed two hours out of town to buy a 2009 Vision late today. I've been wrenching on bikes for 50 years now but have no experience with the Vision. We would sure appreciate some advice on what to look for and/or inspect on a 2009 Vision before you buy it. I did a search and found the information about the cracking front fenders and the long awaited recall and bracket fix by Polaris just this month. That's pretty scarey! The bike is a 1-owner bike with 37,000 miles on it. My friend John has looked at it, sat on it, and cranked the engine at this point, but not yet ridden it. Has a bald back tire, but a new one comes with the bike. Just needs to mount it. Looks extremely well cared for... paint and chrome like new. Owner is selling the bike for less than book value, which normally makes you wonder. But that said, the guy has a garage full of bikes (5) and he's also selling his full dress Harley as well. Lives in a huge house with a swimming pool and tennis court! So the question is: What else should he look for and/or ask the original owner before he hands over the cash. Thanks very much for any advice! Edited by WingMan71 2015-07-24 10:36 AM | ||
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| rdbudd |
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Visionary Posts: 1632 Jasper, MO | The cracked fenders have been known to happen in a few cases, but not all do. My 2008 Vision's fender is still fine. I just got home from a 4000 mile trip up to Glacier Park and Canada on my bike. I put new tires on it before I left and changed the oil, using a full synthetic. I had absolutely no problems with the bike on the entire trip. That is normal for this bike. I bought it new. I've been riding for 50 years and have owned many bikes in that time, mostly of Japanese manufacture, and I have had Goldwings. This Vision is the best of the lot. Just it give the normal going over that you would any used vehicle. Ronnie | ||
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| Hippo |
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Cruiser Posts: 64 Warren, Vermont | I have 60,000 miles on my 2009 10th Anniversary Vision and faced with a choice of riding it to Sturgis or taking my new Indian Chieftain, I chose the Vision without hesitation. A few areas to check -- Fender - but you mentioned that Saddlebags - mine have cracks in the interior (easily repaired with duct tape) Gas cap - the gas cap was upgraded in 2010 I think - mine leaked until I got the new cap Otherwise, if it is good mechanically you will get a lot of miles out of that Vision barely out of puberty... Hippo | ||
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| SteveS |
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Cruiser Posts: 154 Danbury, Connecticut | If you or he never rode a Vic before you can expect the transmission to sound louder and shift a bit clunky compared to what you might be used to. They don't use a primary chain so the gear to gear makes them feel that way. They are a very robust design. When the oil gets to the change interval, neutral can become a bit elusive-picking up the rpm a bit off idle usually helps it drop in. Later models had a transmission update the resolves the issue and allows the oil change interval to double from 2500 to 5k. A common issue seems to be rear tire cupping which causes a noise on turns similar to wheel bearing noise. They are easy to care for, a joy to ride and very reliable-not perfect but a damn good machine. | ||
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| rdbudd |
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Visionary Posts: 1632 Jasper, MO | SteveS - 2015-07-24 1:34 PM If you or he never rode a Vic before you can expect the transmission to sound louder and shift a bit clunky compared to what you might be used to. They don't use a primary chain so the gear to gear makes them feel that way. They are a very robust design. When the oil gets to the change interval, neutral can become a bit elusive-picking up the rpm a bit off idle usually helps it drop in. Later models had a transmission update the resolves the issue and allows the oil change interval to double from 2500 to 5k. A common issue seems to be rear tire cupping which causes a noise on turns similar to wheel bearing noise. They are easy to care for, a joy to ride and very reliable-not perfect but a damn good machine. All true, but I can add some qualifiers. The neutral becoming elusive after lots of miles on the oil, and the 2500 oil change interval are both eliminated if a high quality synthetic oil is used. That is a trait of the Victory branded oil. I go 5000 miles on my 2008, and have even ran to 6790 miles, and never have the aforementioned neutral issue since I quit using the Victory branded oil. The rear tire cupping is a trait of the Dunlop E3 and occurs on any bike, including the Goldwings, that use that tire. Other brands do not do it. Those are not the faults of the Vision, but the brands of oil and tires chosen. Ronnie Edited by rdbudd 2015-07-24 2:40 PM | ||
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| SteveS |
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Cruiser Posts: 154 Danbury, Connecticut | rdbudd - 2015-07-24 2:39 PM SteveS - 2015-07-24 1:34 PM If you or he never rode a Vic before you can expect the transmission to sound louder and shift a bit clunky compared to what you might be used to. They don't use a primary chain so the gear to gear makes them feel that way. They are a very robust design. When the oil gets to the change interval, neutral can become a bit elusive-picking up the rpm a bit off idle usually helps it drop in. Later models had a transmission update the resolves the issue and allows the oil change interval to double from 2500 to 5k. A common issue seems to be rear tire cupping which causes a noise on turns similar to wheel bearing noise. They are easy to care for, a joy to ride and very reliable-not perfect but a damn good machine. All true, but I can add some qualifiers. The neutral becoming elusive after lots of miles on the oil, and the 2500 oil change interval are both eliminated if a high quality synthetic oil is used. That is a trait of the Victory branded oil. I go 5000 miles on my 2008, and have even ran to 6790 miles, and never have the aforementioned neutral issue since I quit using the Victory branded oil. The rear tire cupping is a trait of the Dunlop E3 and occurs on any bike, including the Goldwings, that use that tire. Other brands do not do it. Those are not the faults of the Vision, but the brands of oil and tires chosen. Ronnie Ronnie, what flavor oil are you running and for how long?I've entertained the idea of upgrading oil, but the clutch slipping stories have kept me with vic oil. I have been running it 4,000 and have an oil analysis kit for Blackstone labs that I'll be sending out soon to see what the numbers reflect and then I'll have a baseline to compare another brand against. | ||
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| johnnyvision |
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Visionary Posts: 4278 | <p>you didn't say does it have a radio. Its a must. if he buys it ask for owners book if not here is on line link. Ask what kind of mufflers. Ask what oil he used. It take 4 1/2 quarts and you have to screw dip stick in with bike vertical not on side stand</p><p> </p><p> </p><p>http://cdn.polarisindustries.com/polaris/common/parts-manuals/9921967r03.pdf</p> Edited by johnnyvision 2015-07-24 6:20 PM | ||
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| johnnyvision |
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Visionary Posts: 4278 | http://www.victorymotorcycles.com/en-us/owners-manuals | ||
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| WingMan71 |
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Puddle Jumper Posts: 30 Atlanta, GA | Well, several hours later and we're back with the bike. He bought it. She's a beauty. I couldn't find the method to post up a picture in this forum. If someone tells me how, I'll upload one. Upon inspection and a test ride we found a few things on the bike that needed attention, as follows: 1. The back brake was to the floor. Only got some pressure on it after pumping it about a dozen times. Could not find any leaks in the system, so it must just be air in the lines. We'll bleed it tomorrow and see if it fixes it. 2. Both front fork seals are shot. Tons of fork fluid on both fork tubes. So it had a pretty spongy ride, but that can be expected with no damping in either fork. That will end up being my job since I've rebuilt many front ends over the years. 3. This one is a bit of a mystery. After riding the bike for a bit and coming back into the garage we immediately smelled burning rubber. Upon investigation, the smell was strongest on the right side of the engine in the area of the chrome cover over the drive belt drive gear! Because of the above, we did get the guy to come down on his price a few hundred bucks. Item #3 has us a bit worried. We'd appreciate any advice on what might be causing a burnt rubber smell in that area. Tomorrow we'll be removing the rear wheel to put the new tire on. Thanks for the help so far and please let us know what you think the burning rubber smell is. *** Edited by WingMan71 2015-07-24 8:48 PM | ||
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| rdbudd |
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Visionary Posts: 1632 Jasper, MO | SteveS - 2015-07-24 6:13 PM rdbudd - 2015-07-24 2:39 PM SteveS - 2015-07-24 1:34 PM If you or he never rode a Vic before you can expect the transmission to sound louder and shift a bit clunky compared to what you might be used to. They don't use a primary chain so the gear to gear makes them feel that way. They are a very robust design. When the oil gets to the change interval, neutral can become a bit elusive-picking up the rpm a bit off idle usually helps it drop in. Later models had a transmission update the resolves the issue and allows the oil change interval to double from 2500 to 5k. A common issue seems to be rear tire cupping which causes a noise on turns similar to wheel bearing noise. They are easy to care for, a joy to ride and very reliable-not perfect but a damn good machine. All true, but I can add some qualifiers. The neutral becoming elusive after lots of miles on the oil, and the 2500 oil change interval are both eliminated if a high quality synthetic oil is used. That is a trait of the Victory branded oil. I go 5000 miles on my 2008, and have even ran to 6790 miles, and never have the aforementioned neutral issue since I quit using the Victory branded oil. The rear tire cupping is a trait of the Dunlop E3 and occurs on any bike, including the Goldwings, that use that tire. Other brands do not do it. Those are not the faults of the Vision, but the brands of oil and tires chosen. Ronnie Ronnie, what flavor oil are you running and for how long?I've entertained the idea of upgrading oil, but the clutch slipping stories have kept me with vic oil. I have been running it 4,000 and have an oil analysis kit for Blackstone labs that I'll be sending out soon to see what the numbers reflect and then I'll have a baseline to compare another brand against. I use Amsoil. But NOT the one formulated for Harleys. I did a poll a few years back and all the clutch slipping problems correlated to only ONE particular Amsoil product, which was the 20W50MCV, which is specifically formulated for the requirements of the Harley clutches. They are different than the requirements for Victory and the Japanese bikes. The 20W-50MCV has additives specifically for the Harleys. At the time I did the poll, about 1 in 4 users reported clutch problems using that ONE particular product (20W-50MCV) in Victorys. The other Amsoil products did not have any reported clutch problems. I have been using both this one http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/premium-pr... and this one http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/premium-pr... for the past 15 years in Victory motorcycles and generally average 5000 miles per change. Both my Victorys call for 2500 mile changes, and when I used the Victory branded oil in my Sport Cruiser, the transmission acted up after 2000 miles on the oil. After trying several different alternatives in that bike (that didn't make much difference), I ended up with Amsoil. It showed a remarkable improvement, going 5000+ miles and still good in that bike. I still have that bike. It still has the original transmission and still shifts like new. Before the switch, that same bike was exhibiting all the traits that caused many of the early transmission problems, such as missed shifts, jumping out of gear, false neutrals, etc. I went looking for a better oil before my transmission became permanently damaged. That proved to be Amsoil. It, and only it, proved out in the real world to be more than twice as good as anything else I tried. This skeptic is now a believer. My 2000 Sport Cruiser has been just fine ever since the switch. Since that time, Amsoil has come out with a specific product for Victory and Indian, which is a 20W-40 http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/motorcycle/20w-40-s... I have never used it. I expect it would be great, but I have no reason to change what I have been using. BTW, some of the alternatives I tried included Mobil 1 and Golden Spectro. They were no better than the Victory oil. Ronnie | ||
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| SteveS |
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Cruiser Posts: 154 Danbury, Connecticut | rdbudd - 2015-07-25 10:39 AM SteveS - 2015-07-24 6:13 PM rdbudd - 2015-07-24 2:39 PM SteveS - 2015-07-24 1:34 PM If you or he never rode a Vic before you can expect the transmission to sound louder and shift a bit clunky compared to what you might be used to. They don't use a primary chain so the gear to gear makes them feel that way. They are a very robust design. When the oil gets to the change interval, neutral can become a bit elusive-picking up the rpm a bit off idle usually helps it drop in. Later models had a transmission update the resolves the issue and allows the oil change interval to double from 2500 to 5k. A common issue seems to be rear tire cupping which causes a noise on turns similar to wheel bearing noise. They are easy to care for, a joy to ride and very reliable-not perfect but a damn good machine. All true, but I can add some qualifiers. The neutral becoming elusive after lots of miles on the oil, and the 2500 oil change interval are both eliminated if a high quality synthetic oil is used. That is a trait of the Victory branded oil. I go 5000 miles on my 2008, and have even ran to 6790 miles, and never have the aforementioned neutral issue since I quit using the Victory branded oil. The rear tire cupping is a trait of the Dunlop E3 and occurs on any bike, including the Goldwings, that use that tire. Other brands do not do it. Those are not the faults of the Vision, but the brands of oil and tires chosen. Ronnie Ronnie, what flavor oil are you running and for how long?I've entertained the idea of upgrading oil, but the clutch slipping stories have kept me with vic oil. I have been running it 4,000 and have an oil analysis kit for Blackstone labs that I'll be sending out soon to see what the numbers reflect and then I'll have a baseline to compare another brand against. I use Amsoil. But NOT the one formulated for Harleys. I did a poll a few years back and all the clutch slipping problems correlated to only ONE particular Amsoil product, which was the 20W50MCV, which is specifically formulated for the requirements of the Harley clutches. They are different than the requirements for Victory and the Japanese bikes. The 20W-50MCV has additives specifically for the Harleys. At the time I did the poll, about 1 in 4 users reported clutch problems using that ONE particular product (20W-50MCV) in Victorys. The other Amsoil products did not have any reported clutch problems. I have been using both this one http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/premium-pr... and this one http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/premium-pr... for the past 15 years in Victory motorcycles and generally average 5000 miles per change. Both my Victorys call for 2500 mile changes, and when I used the Victory branded oil in my Sport Cruiser, the transmission acted up after 2000 miles on the oil. After trying several different alternatives in that bike (that didn't make much difference), I ended up with Amsoil. It showed a remarkable improvement, going 5000+ miles and still good in that bike. I still have that bike. It still has the original transmission and still shifts like new. Before the switch, that same bike was exhibiting all the traits that caused many of the early transmission problems, such as missed shifts, jumping out of gear, false neutrals, etc. I went looking for a better oil before my transmission became permanently damaged. That proved to be Amsoil. It, and only it, proved out in the real world to be more than twice as good as anything else I tried. This skeptic is now a believer. My 2000 Sport Cruiser has been just fine ever since the switch. Since that time, Amsoil has come out with a specific product for Victory and Indian, which is a 20W-40 http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/motorcycle/20w-40-s... I have never used it. I expect it would be great, but I have no reason to change what I have been using. BTW, some of the alternatives I tried included Mobil 1 and Golden Spectro. They were no better than the Victory oil. Ronnie Thanks Ronnie, Based on your research(as well as my own) and experience I just ordered some Amsoil for my next oil change. I did go with the 20w40 though. I will be comparing a second oil analysis at the same mileage as the Vic oil. | ||
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| rdbudd |
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Visionary Posts: 1632 Jasper, MO | SteveS - 2015-07-25 4:30 PM Thanks Ronnie, Based on your research(as well as my own) and experience I just ordered some Amsoil for my next oil change. I did go with the 20w40 though. I will be comparing a second oil analysis at the same mileage as the Vic oil. I would be interested in the results of that test. Also, if you choose to extend the mileage on the Amsoil, the results of the extended test too. The reason being, my Sport Cruiser always straightened up after a fresh change of Vic oil, but it would start acting up again after about 2000 miles on it. The transmission obviously wasn't "fixing itself" when it got fresh oil, so it had to be the oil wearing out that caused the erratic behavior. It never does that on Amsoil, even with over twice the mileage on the oil change, it still shifts good. That would indicate that the oil isn't "wearing out" nearly as fast as the others I tried. You have a lab baseline to work from. The results may be interesting, especially on an extended mileage test. Ronnie | ||
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| SteveS |
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Cruiser Posts: 154 Danbury, Connecticut | rdbudd - 2015-07-25 5:32 PM SteveS - 2015-07-25 4:30 PM Thanks Ronnie, Based on your research(as well as my own) and experience I just ordered some Amsoil for my next oil change. I did go with the 20w40 though. I will be comparing a second oil analysis at the same mileage as the Vic oil. I would be interested in the results of that test. Also, if you choose to extend the mileage on the Amsoil, the results of the extended test too. The reason being, my Sport Cruiser always straightened up after a fresh change of Vic oil, but it would start acting up again after about 2000 miles on it. The transmission obviously wasn't "fixing itself" when it got fresh oil, so it had to be the oil wearing out that caused the erratic behavior. It never does that on Amsoil, even with over twice the mileage on the oil change, it still shifts good. That would indicate that the oil isn't "wearing out" nearly as fast as the others I tried. You have a lab baseline to work from. The results may be interesting, especially on an extended mileage test. Ronnie I'll post the results but it likely won't be til next season. This has been my leanest riding year ever-too much damn work, too little fun. | ||
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| johnnyvision |
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Visionary Posts: 4278 | for front brake there is a bad line from master cylinder to portion valve. There $70 bucks and some vision are known for it. Pump up foot brake as best you can. Now on right front caliper open the CENTER bleeder. "NOT" top bleeder. You might have to repeat a few times. This happens when bike sits for long time. Look at the belt if there is shinny marks or rubs on the top side of the belt its rubbing on the inside of the front sprocket cover. That might be cause of poor air in tire or he lowered way to much. Look at the link rod its straight across from the shock. It should be all black one piece tube. Let us know if you need more help. Its a bitch to get the belt aligned correct. If you did not touch the adjuster bolts you might be fine. The marks on the side of the swing arm don't mean squat | ||
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| WingMan71 |
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Puddle Jumper Posts: 30 Atlanta, GA | Johnny, Thanks much for the reply! The brakes are great now. We bled the whole system. Very old, very dirty fluid in there. Plus lots of air in the brake pedal line to the front right caliper. All good now. We got the new rear tire/wheel back on and did not touch the adjuster bolts to do it, so it's back on in the same alignment as original. Stepped through the belt alignment/tension adjustment procedure anyway, and it looks to be correct. Still have the burning rubber smell. I removed the three socket cap screws that hold the chrome front sprocket cover, but could not get the cover off. Didn't want to force anything so decided to wait for more advice. I'd like to get the cover off and see what's up under there! Thanks again. | ||
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| SteveS |
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Cruiser Posts: 154 Danbury, Connecticut | WingMan71 - 2015-07-25 8:39 PM Johnny, Thanks much for the reply! The brakes are great now. We bled the whole system. Very old, very dirty fluid in there. Plus lots of air in the brake pedal line to the front right caliper. All good now. We got the new rear tire/wheel back on and did not touch the adjuster bolts to do it, so it's back on in the same alignment as original. Stepped through the belt alignment/tension adjustment procedure anyway, and it looks to be correct. Still have the burning rubber smell. I removed the three socket cap screws that hold the chrome front sprocket cover, but could not get the cover off. Didn't want to force anything so decided to wait for more advice. I'd like to get the cover off and see what's up under there! Thanks again. Wingman, will the burning smell show up if you just let it idle for 10 minutes without riding? Maybe something rubber or plastic is lodged against the exhaust pipe, behind a shield. Since you just did the tire and checked the belt, it stands to reason that you didn't feel and binding or see any marks on the belt. (You didn't remove the exhaust to do the tire, did you?)Assuming this bike doesn't have the reverse option installed, the sprocket cover is just held in by three screws- there is adhesive on the perimeter seal. Behind it you will only find the sprocket nut and lock plate, and sprocket. There is an oil seal on the shaft. You can see fairly well with an inspection mirror between the sprocket and cover. If something was between the sprocket and case, I think you would have to remove the sprocket. If you decide to go there the nut is 1-7/8" and is torqued to 180 Ft. Lbs. with the crankshaft locked. Locking the crank requires removing the timing cover which will probably tear the gasket. If you plan on going that far, you might as well just order the Lloydz adjustable timing wheel and reusable gasket and be done with it. | ||
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| WingMan71 |
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Puddle Jumper Posts: 30 Atlanta, GA | SteveS - 2015-07-26 9:36 AM Wingman, will the burning smell show up if you just let it idle for 10 minutes without riding? Maybe something rubber or plastic is lodged against the exhaust pipe, behind a shield. Since you just did the tire and checked the belt, it stands to reason that you didn't feel and binding or see any marks on the belt. (You didn't remove the exhaust to do the tire, did you?)Assuming this bike doesn't have the reverse option installed, the sprocket cover is just held in by three screws- there is adhesive on the perimeter seal. Behind it you will only find the sprocket nut and lock plate, and sprocket. There is an oil seal on the shaft. You can see fairly well with an inspection mirror between the sprocket and cover. If something was between the sprocket and case, I think you would have to remove the sprocket. If you decide to go there the nut is 1-7/8" and is torqued to 180 Ft. Lbs. with the crankshaft locked. Locking the crank requires removing the timing cover which will probably tear the gasket. If you plan on going that far, you might as well just order the Lloydz adjustable timing wheel and reusable gasket and be done with it. Steve, Thanks for the reply. Great idea about letting the bike idle, but NOT ride it, and see if the burning rubber smell shows up! We have not tried that, but we will. We spent all day yesterday working on the bike. Early this morning my friend John (bike's owner) left for a ride from Atlanta to Oklahoma City! So the bike is on the road right now. I'm beginning to think that the burning rubber smell is not the drive belt. When we had the rear wheel off, we got a pretty good look up into the drive belt drive sprocket area with a flashlight. Did not see anything in there that looked out of place. I think your idea that a rubber hose or something is touching the exhaust is more likely. John called me from on the road this morning to report that the cruise control is not working. I just copied the 5 pages out of the factory service manual on running the onboard diagnostic procedure to test the cruise control system components and sent it to him. Hopefully he can go through that and find a cause. One question on that: I read a note in the owner's manual that kind of implied that if any of the brake lights are out, the cruise control will not work. Is that right? Also, I did not see a fuse in either fuse box that had anything to do with the cruise control, so I'm guessing it's not a fuse problem. Thanks very much! We'll keep working on it. *** | ||
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| SteveS |
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Cruiser Posts: 154 Danbury, Connecticut | WingMan71 - 2015-07-26 10:25 AM Steve, Thanks for the reply. Great idea about letting the bike idle, but NOT ride it, and see if the burning rubber smell shows up! We have not tried that, but we will. We spent all day yesterday working on the bike. Early this morning my friend John (bike's owner) left for a ride from Atlanta to Oklahoma City! So the bike is on the road right now. I'm beginning to think that the burning rubber smell is not the drive belt. When we had the rear wheel off, we got a pretty good look up into the drive belt drive sprocket area with a flashlight. Did not see anything in there that looked out of place. I think your idea that a rubber hose or something is touching the exhaust is more likely. John called me from on the road this morning to report that the cruise control is not working. I just copied the 5 pages out of the factory service manual on running the onboard diagnostic procedure to test the cruise control system components and sent it to him. Hopefully he can go through that and find a cause. One question on that: I read a note in the owner's manual that kind of implied that if any of the brake lights are out, the cruise control will not work. Is that right? Also, I did not see a fuse in either fuse box that had anything to do with the cruise control, so I'm guessing it's not a fuse problem. Thanks very much! We'll keep working on it. *** Bob, There is a fused feed from the chassis relay. It also powers heated seat and grips. If that is the issue the hand warmers won't be working-try that as a quick indicator. Obviously make sure the stop lights are working. On a couple occasions my cruise didn't work-usually after a wash. It always came back to life before I got to look into it. | ||
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| lennyb |
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Iron Butt Posts: 802 Perry Hall, MD | There were a few bad brake light switches on early bikes that would cause intermittent cruise control failure. | ||
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| johnnyvision |
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Visionary Posts: 4278 | you have to find out which brake switch is not working. Foot or handle bar. Foot one is down by oil cooler and front one is right below lever. rear one you can get at auto store if you take old one. Its the same as a oil pressure switch. As him if the green light comes on when he pushes the set button. Of course he good have a burned out bulb. Just below right hand handlebar he should see to think wires that plug into the return throttle cable. They do come off easy. See if there hooked up sorry to go here. Most of us go to auto store for oil filter. WIX 51356. Please don't ask about oil do a search. I hope your friend loves the bike for the most part nothing really goes wrong with them and there not bad to work on. You only need a few tools. Ask more if you need to Bob | ||
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| WingMan71 |
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Puddle Jumper Posts: 30 Atlanta, GA | Lenny & Johnny, Thanks much for the replies and the additional troubleshooting info. We did do a light check on the bike when it was in my garage all day getting worked on. I saw the brake lights working. I just don't remember if John was using the brake lever or the brake pedal, or both, to activate them. Should have been paying closer attention! I also don't know if ALL the brake lights (bulbs) were working since I'm not familiar with how many bulbs are in there. It seemed that the bottom half of the long vertical red light bars on both sides on the rear lit up when he activated the brakes, but not the top half. Is that right, or should the top half have brake lights in them too? John reported that NO dash lights are coming on when he tries to set the cruise. I'm also guessing that there may also be cruise cut-off switches on both the clutch lever as well as the brake lever and foot brake that could be broken, as on most bikes with cruise control. Even though he wanted to, John actually had no choice but to ride the Vision all the way to Oklahoma City. He had to go there to help out his daughter and his old '02 Expedition is having engine troubles right now. He couldn't take the chance. I'm gonna text him some of this stuff to check. Thanks again for all the help! *** | ||
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| WingMan71 |
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Puddle Jumper Posts: 30 Atlanta, GA | Steve, Thanks for the tip on checking the grip warmers to see if the fused circuit that the cruise is on is working or not. I've texted that tip to John. He's on his way to Oklahoma City on the Vision. EDIT: Just heard from John. The grip warmers work, so looks like the non-functioning cruise control is not a fuse issue. Thanks! Edited by WingMan71 2015-07-26 7:24 PM | ||
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| WingMan71 |
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Puddle Jumper Posts: 30 Atlanta, GA | OK folks, Just got a call from John with another problem to diagnose. FYI, this bike had been sitting unused for about 5 months. PO just parked it in the garage and rode one of his Harleys instead. So some of these issues may be related to that period of inactivity. John reports that the bike will just shut off sometimes when he rolls off the throttle and pulls in the clutch like when slowing approaching a stop. Yikes! That's not good! He says it will crank right back up, but it's done this shut off three times now. I'm familiar with some bikes with ECU's that have an idle reset procedure that can be performed. Does the Vision have an idle reset function? Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks! Edited by WingMan71 2015-07-26 7:30 PM | ||
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| rdbudd |
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Visionary Posts: 1632 Jasper, MO | These bikes have an Idle Air Control valve. It may be sticking from sitting so long. You should be able to hear it clicking when turning the ignition on and again when shutting the bike off after it has been running. It can cause the off-throttle stalling issue. Ronnie | ||
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| atvtinker |
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Tourer Posts: 466 Grand Cane, LA | Wingman71, there should have been four bulbs that lit up when you hit the brakes; 2 up top and 2 on the bottom. That is probably the problem with his cruise. Cruise will not function if any of the brake light bulbs are out. There are 7 bulbs all together in the tail lights; 3 per side and 1 for the license plate. Takes a little bit to get the tail lights off to change a bulb, but not difficult just time consuming. Bulb number is a 3157 for the tail lights and w5w for the license light. Edited by atvtinker 2015-07-27 12:58 PM | ||
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