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Visionary
Posts: 1436
| Thought I'd jot this down before I forget so anyone else knows what is where for wiring trailer lighting.
As you know remove the seat so you have access to the bike harness. If you look all the way on the right BEHIND the harness you disconnect for tour pak removal you'll notice a smaller harness. This harness follows the bag lines forward to a rather large plug, this is the harness you want, not the other.
You'll need access to the following wires in that harness:
Blue/Red= RH turn signal
Blue= LH Turn Signal
White/Pink= Brake lights
Green/Pink= Marker lights
I used the Hopkins Towing Solutions Controller/harness #48925 that can be purchased at Autozone for less than $30. There is a small gap between the frame and saddlebag back on the left side that the harness will fit nicely through and along side your hitch frame. The controller tucks nicely into the underside of the tour pak or you can use some double sided tape to stick it to the frame on the street models.
Total job if you take your time and stand around admiring your Vision in between steps, about 1 hour.
Hope this helps someone out.....
This probably should be in the tech section. My bad again....... T  |
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Cruiser
Posts: 50
| Thanks Teach, I copied it to my computer. Thinking about getting the Hitch Doc.
Glock |
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Visionary
Posts: 1436
| Glock that is what I installed (HitchDoc). One of our members is a dealer for that hitch. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 11
| Thanks Teach,
G,day Teach....
Have installed the HitchDoc as per your instructions and put two bolts down from the top box and two up from the plate.....hedging my bets.... all without taking off the rear wheel, but had a mate working with me, who had the extensions for the sockets and thinner arms than mine...
I will work on the wiring this weekend, thanks for all your information. I hope you are able to sort the skating issue on the bitumen....we similarly have issues with crap roads here, due to heat, but not the issue with ice and snow.... but it sounds like you have more than enough experience both as a rider and working on bikes to sort this out.....I have only been riding for 30 years, it sound a while now that I look at it, but it seems like just yesterday I rode my first bike and have encountered a broad range of road and bike conditions....I have to say that feeling safe on your ride is the most important feature of a bike and if you don't have confidence in the Vision, either find that confidence in the Vision again, or move on to another bike or brand....I have to say the Vision is by far the best bike I have ridden and like anything mechanical or female, will from time to time give us cause for disolusionment. Hang in there mate, it would be sad to see you leave the Vision Riders fold, you input and experience has been valued....
Enough of the sentimental shit......can you provide me with any more info' on the wiring of the plug like what did you use for the earth, or did you earth straight into the frame....also please advise your mates at HitchDoc, a great product, but in future if sending to Australia, they will need to install a larger tow ball as the Aussie ones are bigger and I have had to take the chrome tongue to an engineering shop to have it drilled out to allow for the larger ball thread.....haven't got it back yet, hope they haven't buggered chrome.....
Cheers
Swampy. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1436
| Yes I grounded right to the frame via one of the bolts already there, you'll see another ground in use already. I used push splices instead of cutting and splicing for this initial install but I'll likely devise a pigtail over winter using the two plugs (male & female) on the bike. I'll be hunting down part numbers and work up a cost and parts breakdown so folks can make their own in the future. |
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| Sorry if this is a dumb question. Trying to wire my trailer and I see the Vision has blue, blue/red,green/pink and white/pink.
My four wire harness has yellow for l.h and stop
green for r.h. turn and stop
side marker brown.
If I run blue to yellow ( left )
green to blue/red (right)
brown to green/pink
What/how do I wire brake lights? do I run white/pink to both lane indicators? |
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Visionary
Posts: 1436
| studmuffin, does your vision have the Hopkins Towing Solutions Controller/harness #48925 on it? If so I'm assuming your trailer lights are a 5 or 6 wire system and you are trying to convert it to a 4? If so go to autozone and they sell a 5/6 wire to flat 4 convertor. You leave your trailer wiring as it came from the factory, leave the Vision plug as is and make up a short harness using the 5-4 convertor in between the two (bike & trailer). The OTHER option is to simply wire the Vision harness straight without the convertor #48925. You don't need the controller/convertors if it a direct wiring match, they are only needed when your trailer is a 4 pin variety and the bike is 5. |
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| Thanks for the hints.
I bought a new wiring kit with five wires and got her done. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
| I,ve been strewing over this one. Hopkins 48925 doesn't say any place that it Isolates. I have a 5 wire trailer (4 wire & ground) Have you used your hookup for any amount of travel yet. No dash warning lites yet I hope.
When I looked at the Picture of it at autozone it looks like you have 4 wires out ok (I could just use my running lites (for both stop & turn) as other trailer do) but the input shows a Long Green wire (for what), red, yel, bk or brn & long White with eyelet for ground. If long green is power then I only have 3 input not anuff, I need 4. Can you help me understand this problem? And by the way I do thank you very much for defining the 4 wires I need to get to, hook up. Thanks |
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
| Studmuffin: Were did you get you 5 wire in & 5 wire out harness? How much did it cost & does it also have isolation? If you get a short in the trailer harness it could fry your electronics on the bike. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1436
| Rick, Isolation harnesses simply allow you to draw from the battery rather than the control harness. Now I've HEARD that not running isolation can screw up and shut the controller down in extreme situations on FI bikes, BUT I have yet to hear of or meet ANYONE this has actually happened to. My trailer runs LED lites which is a very low draw but high output, never had an issue. HOWEVER if you really want to play it safe, Bushtec and a few other trailer manufacturers sell a ISOLATION harness you can install. In fact I thought I read somewhere that Hitchdoc now has one?
For the record the 48925 REDUCES power output, so if you are running traditional lites instead of LED's it may cause the lites to burn dim. Hope this helps
Edited by Teach 2011-07-11 11:41 AM
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 14
Billings, Montana | Has anyone used the Hoppy (Hopkins) 46155 converter kit. I am getting a Piggybacker trailer and that is what they said to get to work with their LED lights and it should be a no brainer. Just don't want to fry anything. Thanks. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| Am I reading these posts correctly, that there is already an unused harness plug on the Vision ready to accept a Hoppy type trailer converter? If so, why is everyone tapping/splicing into the wiring harness to provide run/turn/brake functions instead of just getting the matching connector and plugging into this theoretical existing spare plug?
Thanks |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 14
Billings, Montana | To my knowledge there is nothing to accept a Hopkins 5 to 4 wire converter. The other thing is I was advised to get the Kuryakyn isolator so there is not a chance of screwing up the bike's computer. The Kuryakyn unit does not put out enough power to get through the Hopkins 5 to 4 converter and you need to get the Kuryakyn 5 to 4 converter. Mine will be here on Thursday and hopefully I will be able to call this project complete. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| I don't know about the previous years, but my 2011 is already wired for trailer lighting. There is a four wire pigtail coming off the rear harness that has four wires stripped and taped up, ready for direct connection. No "hoppy" or other converter required. The four wires are left, right, power, and ground. The left and right also carry the brake signal, with a built in override when the turn signals are activated. This is what I used to wire up my LEDs under the trunk lid, so they work as both brakes and turn signals.
Anyway, just thought I'd save some of you the time and money of unnecessarily hooking up a converter and "tapping" into wires when there's no need. It's already there...... |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| Behind the tail lights are the hook up for the trailer lights. Pull the tail lights and you'll see them one for each side |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 14
Billings, Montana | I had the tail lights off my '09 snd did not see anything like that. I wasn't really looking for it though. Wish I had this info a couple weeks ago and I would have looked. I did not see anything on the wiring diagram either. On a side note, if you do get the Kuryakyn setup, it works great. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | im really curious about this (wiring) if the wires are there do you still need a isolator? |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| What there is two pugs one on each side to splice into that are right in the taillight harness |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| Turk - 2012-06-26 9:05 AM
I don't know about the previous years, but my 2011 is already wired for trailer lighting. There is a four wire pigtail coming off the rear harness that has four wires stripped and taped up, ready for direct connection. No "hoppy" or other converter required. The four wires are left, right, power, and ground. The left and right also carry the brake signal, with a built in override when the turn signals are activated. This is what I used to wire up my LEDs under the trunk lid, so they work as both brakes and turn signals.
Anyway, just thought I'd save some of you the time and money of unnecessarily hooking up a converter and "tapping" into wires when there's no need. It's already there......
Okay, I'm not sure why it didn't occur to me when I posted this (on multiple occasions), but I'm going to have to eat crow on this. The OEM wiring harness does NOT have the four wire pigtail I have been referencing. It's Gary Lighton's aftermarket sequencing harness that comes with the pigtail! Apparently, I didn't put two and two together on this, and forgot that I had the aftermarket harness. My apologies for the inaccurate information.
Edited by Turk 2013-08-01 2:05 PM
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Cruiser
Posts: 162
Extreme Southern, AZ United States | Just for your info; I wired the victory using the hitchdoc isolator. worked well at first, then A friend who was following me sigalled me to pull over. my taillights were not working and the brakelights worked sporadically. I pulled the seat to check the coverter. and found nothing but the box was pretty warm. I pulled my ohmmeter and checked the connections and foundthat theground thru the c0nverter was nonexistant. Since I was in the first stages of our trip, I just ran a separate ground and all was good. Checking the box later after the stop in the middle (campsite) I found it wasn't even warm. Talked with the folks at hitchdoc and they told me as long as the hot wires were thru the converter, all was fine. |
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New user
Posts: 2
| To my knowledge there is nothing to accept a Hopkins 5 to 4 wire converter. The other thing is I was advised to get the Kuryakyn isolator so there is not a chance of screwing up the bike's computer.
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Brodon |
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New user
Posts: 2
| Brodon - 2013-08-02 12:01 AM
To my knowledge there is nothing to accept a Hopkins 5 to 4 wire converter. The other thing is I was advised to get the Kuryakyn isolator so there is not a chance of screwing up the bike's computer.
Thanks for sharing very useful info..
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Wiring your hitch
