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Mounting a new fuse block
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radioteacher
Posted 2008-08-02 6:58 AM (#14982)
Subject: Mounting a new fuse block


Visionary

Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX
Where can I mount a new fuse block that will go directly to the battery. I will be adding lights and radios to the Vision and would like to make one run to the battery then power the other devices from there.
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TimS
Posted 2008-08-02 9:40 AM (#14992 - in reply to #14982)
Subject: RE: Mounting a new fuse block


Iron Butt

Posts: 810

Check to see if there are any empty spots in the existing fuse blocks.  You maybe able to use the empties.

 Just a thought.

Tim 

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radioteacher
Posted 2008-08-02 12:23 PM (#15004 - in reply to #14982)
Subject: Re: Mounting a new fuse block


Visionary

Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX
TimS,

I thought about that for the extra lights. The Vision spares should be fine. By the way my wife and I love the extra lights that you have on your Vision. I will be adding mirror directional lights and the 100 led stop light. I was thinking of using the six LED strips instead of the 12 for the mirrors. What are your thoughts?

I will be mounting at least one Amateur Radio Transceiver on the Vision.

On transmit, this radio could draw from 5 to 17 amps depending on what radio (UHF/VHF or UHF/VHF/HF) I choose to put on the Vision. I have to go back to the battery for that kind of power. I thought that maybe a marine store might have what I need.

Thanks,
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rdbudd
Posted 2008-08-02 12:52 PM (#15005 - in reply to #15004)
Subject: Re: Mounting a new fuse block


Visionary

Posts: 1632
Jasper, MO
I think Summit Racing equipment has just what you're looking for. They have a wide variety of fuse blocks and wiring kits for race cars. Probably, the Painles Performance Products CirKit Boss line would work well for you. They are power isolater types and are relay activated and can be had in 3 to 7 circuit versions . Look at part numbers PRF-70103 (3 circuit), PRF-70107 (7 circuit), and PRF-70207 (7 circuit. weatherproof). they also have many other setups available. but these would probably be what you are looking for. http://www.SummitRacing.com

Ronnie
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TimS
Posted 2008-08-02 5:34 PM (#15021 - in reply to #15004)
Subject: Re: Mounting a new fuse block


Iron Butt

Posts: 810

The 100 LED strips can be ordered in longer lengths (in 0.6 inch increments).  This was my prototype.  I may end up with a longer strip that is made up of 3 sections.  The 2 end sections would be running, turn and brake signals and the center section would be brake only.  I had to build out the lip to get the LED stips to mount flush to the edge of the trunk lip.  If you don't do this, the LEDs will not show very well.

So you are a HAM radio buff?  Can you tell me who makes an accurate, easy to use SWR meter these days?  You used to be able to find them all over the place and they are no as hard to find as hen's teeth.

The flexible Stingerz come in 3, 9, 12, 24 and 30 LED strips.  I don't know where to get them in 6 LEDs.

If you are just running 1 line off of the battery, you could put an inline waterproof fuse holder by the positive battery lead.  This is what I did because I doubt I would be changing fuses that often.  It is easy to get at as using jumper cables on the bike and you don't have to pull any panels off to get to it. 

Tim 

 

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Travelin Man
Posted 2008-08-02 5:48 PM (#15023 - in reply to #14982)
Subject: Re: Mounting a new fuse block


Iron Butt

Posts: 721

Hey guys, no offense, your ideas for wiring are great, but perhaps the work has already been done for you? What I am referring to is the fact that as a former Goldwing rider who added many different lights (including xenon emergency vehicle strobes) to my own Goldwing there are fuse blocks made for the Goldwing that should easily adapt to the Vision, the only problem should be where to mount one as on the Goldwing it attaches next to the battery that is under the left side cover. Here is a link to the website from Directline Parts..............

http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=8183&str=270&ID=252579824

 

 



Edited by Travelin' Man 2008-08-02 5:54 PM
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radioteacher
Posted 2008-08-04 12:36 AM (#15147 - in reply to #14982)
Subject: Re: Mounting a new fuse block


Visionary

Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX
TimS,

I like the idea of the three section lights under the trunk lip. How did you build up the lip to flush mount the LED's?

The best bet in a cheap SWR meter for CB radio is to go to a local Amateur Radio "HamFest". Also, I bet that any truck stop would have a unit that could provide a good indication if a CB and Antenna is working well.

To find a Hamfest, go to the ARRL web site at http://www.arrl.org/hamfests.html and type in your zip code and the range you want to travel to the event. It will output a list of events in your area.

Instead of an SWR meter I use the same type of gear that the pro's have, a Bird 43 directional watt meter with selective elements "slugs" that cover a small range of frequencies at a given power level. This type of unit is great for it accuracy but sucks on the pocket book. With the right elements the unit is accurate from 2 to 1800 MHz and from 2.5 watts to 5,000 watts.

The unit I own was really beat up bad. All most all of the paint was chipped off of the outside of the case but the meter works perfectly. I bought the $300 retail unit for $45 at a HamFest a decade ago.
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radioteacher
Posted 2008-08-04 12:39 AM (#15149 - in reply to #14982)
Subject: Re: Mounting a new fuse block


Visionary

Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX
I like the Summit Racing equipment since they have some fuse blocks that are waterproof and will turn off with the key. That is a nice touch since I do not want a dead battery.
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TimS
Posted 2008-08-04 2:12 AM (#15156 - in reply to #15147)
Subject: Re: Mounting a new fuse block


Iron Butt

Posts: 810

RadioTeacher,

The trunk is still in the prototype stages yet. I am trying to make the existing running lights into turn/brake lights and it is tough because of how Victory designed the lens. There is not enough room to put in a dual-element bulb and the 2 ends of the lens taper to a very shallow depth, thus not leaving room to add extra bulbs at the ends. My buddy suggested an alternative this evening and I will be testing it out shortly.

Thanks for the update. Are Dosy meters any good? The are a bit cheaper than the Birds.

To build up the lip, I was looking for a flexible black piece of rectangular extruded rubber, but could not locate anything. I then started rummaging through my garage to get the prototype working. This is really bad, but it works. I found some left over low-voltage lighting cable (e.g. Malibu Lights). It is flat, black, flexible and the proper width. I used 2 layers of it with 3M automotive adhesive in between the layers. This build up brought it to the proper height. I am ashamed to admit it, but it works =).

Here is a mock up of a side light. I am thinking the 2 side pieces would be dual intensity Running/Brake/Turn while the center piece would be brake only.

Tim

P.S.

This should really be on my other thread regarding the new brake and turn lights. 

 



Edited by TimS 2008-08-04 2:20 AM




(MockUp (Large).jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments MockUp (Large).jpg (46KB - 2 downloads)
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radioteacher
Posted 2008-08-04 10:19 AM (#15170 - in reply to #14982)
Subject: Re: Mounting a new fuse block


Visionary

Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX
I did a little research and the Dosy meters should work just fine.

Nice mock up! The lights look great! I want to start on my Vision ham radio and lighting projects but they will have to wait for a few months.
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