I am working on a how-to set of instructions; I took lots of pics during my install.

In the mean-time, here is an overview of what is entailed (and, yes, I am a licensed Professional Engineer)...

It is NOT for the faint of heart - basically, you have to re-wire the signal/brakes (including adding a signal feed to the inner front sockets).

The Vision has qty10 3157 (two front and three back per side) main signal/turn bulbs, along with qty3 194 bulbs (two in the trunk and a license lamp). It is factory wired such that, for the front, only the outer bulbs are used for signalling, and, for the back, only the top bulb is used for signalling and the bottom bulb is used for braking. The middle bulb will turn off if you are signalling; otherwise, it is an additional brake lamp.

For LEDs, I purchased from eBay qty5 pair of V-LEDS HID WHITE 60 M-SMT GM DRL BULBS 3157 3156 VS, at $50/pair. These have qty60 surface mount high intensity leds, and are specifically designed to handle fluctuating and spiking voltage.

I purchased qty2 pair of V-LEDS WHITE 194 13 LED LIGHT BULBS 158 168 2825 VS, at $15/pair - one for the license lamp and two for the trunk. I added the Kuryakyn 4710 controller mod ($63), along with its included Kuryakyn 4810 load equalizer.

I added qty5 per side wide-angle red LEDs on the outer edges of my mirrors (whilst I was in that vicinity) for $12 from eBay.

I also bought an LED conversion kit for my BushTec trailer, from BushTec for $99.

For sequencing controllers, I purchased directly from www.webelectricproducts.com item STS-2S for the front (two lamp sequencing) for $49 and item STS-1M5 for the back (three lamp sequencing) for $80.

On the front, move the turn signal feed wire from the outer socket to the inner socket. The red wire of the STS-2S controller is tapped off of the turn signal wire. The black wire of the controller taps off of the ground wire. The white wire of the controller is run to the signal location of the outer socket. Repeat for other side.

The back gets more complicated. On the left side, cut the blue signal wire near the upper socket and add a diode to the signal feed. The socket side of the blue wire is connected to the blue wire of the STS-1M5 controller. Cut the white wire of the middle socket; the socket side is connected to the white wire of the controller. Cut the black/orange grounding wire of the middle socket; the socket side is connected to the ground wire of the bottom socket, along with the black wire of the controller. Splice into the white/red wire, just past the bike's diode, the blue signal wire (with its diode) and the red wire of the controller. In this manner, either the brake or the signal can feed the red wire of the controller - and each has a diode to block any backfeed. Do the same for the other side.

I now have dual sequential front turn signals (along with mirror blinkers), triple sequential (from bottom to top) rear turn signals, and three per side brake lights (as well as turn/brake/tail lights for the trunk).

Outstanding issues:
1) I need to buy another Kuryakyn 4810 load equalizer ($16) in order to slow my blinker sequencing rate some more (the LEDs have virtually no amperage draw on the bike's electrical system).

2) The triple brake light overrides the sequencing blinkers. I am going to take the diode brake feed from each side and run these back through the bike's two relays (the ones that controlled the middle lamps), in order to cancel the brake feed for a given side if its associated signal is also on. This will require separating the relay outputs and bringing an additional wire to the back of the bike - but all of the hardware is already mounted on the bike.

charbin - 2009-11-05 12:51 PM

It is NOT for the faint of heart - basically, you have to re-wire the signal/brakes (including adding a signal feed to the inner front sockets).

My heart just fainted but I knew it would be complicated.  I could almost attempt it but am totally clueless about relays.

I've read several forums about LED's and have heard that white LED's don't project light like an incandecent bulb so you have to use red LED's behind a red lense.  Doesn't make sense to me but can you tell a difference with your white LED set-up?

Charbin,

How do these sequencers handle the running light portions of the 3157 bulbs?  Do they stay on all of the time, or do they go off during the sequencing?

Did you change the trunk light lens to add more light?  I have added 2 relays to mine to turn the running lights off in the trunk lenses when the flashers or turn signals are on so instead of going dim/bright, they go off/bright.  I tied into the same 2 lines that control the center bulbs in the rear lights to turn the running lights off in the trunk during the turn signals or the flashers.

Sounds like you have a nice setup.

Thanks,

Tim

The LEDs - just like the 3157 incadescent blubs - are controlled by three wires: Gnd, Dim, Bright.

The running light feed is connected to the Dim input, and is totally independent of whatever happens on the Bright input.

The Sequencer feed (turn/brake) is connected to the Bright input.

The sequencer has four wires: Black (Gnd), Red (1st light), White (2nd light), Blue (3rd light). 

Note that one sequencer is used for each side of rear lights.

The sequencer Red wire is tapped off of the main turn/brake feed.

The sequencer interprets a pulsed feed as "turn", and sequences its output amongst the remaining two light outputs. 

The blink time is automatically adjusted such that all three lights will blink in an even sequence.

The sequencer interprets a solid feed as "brake", and simultaneously illuminates all three light outputs.

The result is that the brake lights will sequence one time and then stay on each time you apply the brakes.

This "burst" effect should help in attracting the attention of the driver behind you.

Note - via the green wire of the sequencer, this feature can be disabled.

To specifically answer your question - yes, the Dim output (running light) independently stays on for all six bulbs.

I agree that it would be more dramatic to kill the running lights on the active side during the blink sequencing.

Thanks for the quick feedback.  I was looking at their website and the depicted cars all looked like there were no running lights during the sequential flashing. 

You are only 2 relay's away from loosing the running lights during the sequencing

I am still looking for a supplier of micro relays.  My current version is using the full-size 5-pin BOSCH relays (cheap and readily available), but it would be nice to have a smaller footprint.

Sincerely,

Tim