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Valve clatter
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slowryder
Posted 2010-06-15 4:03 PM (#62292)
Subject: Valve clatter


Cruiser

Posts: 106
L.I., N.Y.
Got the bike back late March after $4000 mostly cosmetic replacement and handle bar and bushing from a sideswipe accident in Nov. 09. I changed the oil and decided to try the Rotella semi blend 10-30w, at 15000 miles. temps for riding varied between 30's and 60's late March Early April. Oil temp for riding stayed right around 190 to 200. in late April we had a 83 to 86 degree day. I was accelerating from a light and when I shifted to 3rd I heard the valve start clattering at around 3500 to 3800 rpms and the same in 4th. I tried it at the next couple of lights with the same acceleration, may have shifted a little earlier just to put a slight load on it. Oil temp was 230's and there was 790 miles on the oil. Same valve clatter noise I heard when I got stuck in traffic fall of 08 when my oil temps hit 280 to 300 degrees. Change the oiland as you know Victory oil is slightly more.
I change the oil at 15794 miles back to Victory's oil and sent samples to Blackstone Labs for analysis and the sample came back with the same consistents of a Victory 106cc engine with 2500 miles on it. Good news.
Question is can the valves be tighten?
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2010-06-15 4:59 PM (#62297 - in reply to #62292)
Subject: Re: Valve clatter


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
The valves can't be tightened. They are self adjusting. Are u sure its valve noise?
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Flatsix
Posted 2010-06-15 7:11 PM (#62310 - in reply to #62292)
Subject: RE: Valve clatter


Tourer

Posts: 412
Fargo, ND

 

10 - 30 could be a little thin when hot and the lifters not pumping up with it...as Victory does recomment 20 - 40 oil.

 

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varyder
Posted 2010-06-15 8:09 PM (#62311 - in reply to #62292)
Subject: Re: Valve clatter


Visionary

Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA
I had something stick around 55,000 when I started it up the kick and a rearward incline. Click, ticked, tacked for about 500 mile on the way to Augusta from NC. The next evening it just stopped and ain't heard it since. 70,400 on the meter today.
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candubrain
Posted 2010-06-15 8:26 PM (#62314 - in reply to #62292)
Subject: Re: Valve clatter


Cruiser

Posts: 235
Kincardine, Ontario, Canada
hear mine all the time, since new.
Being an X HD man, I'm use to the noise.
As long as it still pulls like a freight train, I'm not worried.
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baadawg
Posted 2010-06-15 9:00 PM (#62318 - in reply to #62292)
Subject: Re: Valve clatter


Tourer

Posts: 499
Chattanooga, TN
10w-30 might be your problem. The 30 weight stands for the shear resistance, which is the most important number. It needs to be 40 weight, according to Victory. The first number indicates thickness, and in multiviscocity oils a lower number indicates a more energy conserving oil. Generally, a thicker oil dampens engine noise which is why in old days, someone might add straight 50 weight oil to a car with a knocking rod. Recent advances in oil technology have given us 5w-30 oil, which has the thickness of 5w oil but the sheer resistance of a 30 weight oil.
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slowryder
Posted 2010-06-15 9:00 PM (#62319 - in reply to #62314)
Subject: Re: Valve clatter


Cruiser

Posts: 106
L.I., N.Y.
sounds good to me.
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varyder
Posted 2010-06-15 9:05 PM (#62321 - in reply to #62318)
Subject: Re: Valve clatter


Visionary

Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA
baadawg - 2010-06-15 10:00 PM

10w-30 might be your problem. The 30 weight stands for the shear resistance, which is the most important number. It needs to be 40 weight, according to Victory. The first number indicates thickness, and in multiviscocity oils a lower number indicates a more energy conserving oil. Generally, a thicker oil dampens engine noise which is why in old days, someone might add straight 50 weight oil to a car with a knocking rod. Recent advances in oil technology have given us 5w-30 oil, which has the thickness of 5w oil but the sheer resistance of a 30 weight oil.


I had a '65 Olds Cutlass with a 330 Rocket Engine and a 2 speed automatic, Superglide I think it was. Anyway, it had a rod knocking and it would smoke like a freight train. Went with Castro 50w racing oil, did the trick for the summer time, but I had to have a strong battery in the winter.
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2010-06-15 9:36 PM (#62325 - in reply to #62292)
Subject: Re: Valve clatter


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
yeah i would NEVER use 10w30 in a bike spec'd for W40... especially when you crack that throttle! the cushion between the metal to metal parts wouldnt be there the same way a w40-w50 would be...
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Ralph
Posted 2010-06-17 9:41 PM (#62518 - in reply to #62292)
Subject: Re: Valve clatter


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 27
I used to have valve rattle in a foreign bike and as soon as I replaced exhaust, air box and power commander it went away. Just running too lean which meant too hot. It might be the octane of your fuel? The hotter it is outside the more clatter you'll get if wrong octane. Just a thought.
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johnedoe
Posted 2010-06-20 9:26 AM (#62706 - in reply to #62292)
Subject: Re: Valve clatter


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 26
North East Oregon
Just stick with Vic Oil...............
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