|
|
Visionary
Posts: 1324
So Cal | Has anyone replaced their starter on the Vision? Manual says to remove the exhaust system & right leg fairing. Front head pipe looks like it will come loose by it self if I just remove the fairing. Sounds like a noisy bearing. Too much wet weather riding. Oh, DB electrical sells the starter for half the price of OE ,$150 |
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 1324
So Cal | Well, here's the skinny on the starter replacement. It is possible to remove the front pipe if you remove the battery and tray. But since I planned on replacing the gear indicator switch, I decided to remove the exhaust (have had the switch and exhaust seals for some time. Never got around to it.).
My fear of having a hard time with the exhaust was unwarranted. It wasn't a piece of cake but it wasnt that difficult. I loosened the 3 muffler clamps at work and rode it home thinking the it would help loosen the joints. Not sure if it helped but the mufflers and head pipes came off fairly easy the next day. WD-40 was used liberally. The right side leg fairing does not have to come off. Just remove the belly pan and bolts at the tipover and there is enough flex in the fairing to remove the front head pipe. The oil filter doesn't have to come off either, unless you plan on removing the crossover pipe completely. The whole job took about 5 hrs. mainly because I was unfamiliar with the system. Should be able to do it in about 3 now. Twisting the mufflers out of their hangers was easier than I though without the special tool the manual calls for. A lot of WD-40 and a pry bar at the rear most hanger allowed me to rotate the mufflers. The regulator doesn't have to come off either. Just the 2 bracket bolts that bolt to the starter. You will lose some oil out of the starter hole. I would also recommend a tap and die for the exhaust flange bolts and nuts. All I had at home though was anti-sieze a little time and patience with them will pay off. One nut took a good 15 min., plenty of WD-40 And working it back and forth a 1/4 turn at a time. Again, a tap and die would have made assembly quicker. After it's all back together, if the starter sounds funny, loosen the 2 starter bolts and start it a couple of times. That will center the starter in the bore. Not too loose, you'll lose your ground. What a difference the new starter made. My old one must have messed up longer than I thought. Before when I started it the battery light came on briefly and my battery would need a maint. charge once in a while. Now, it cranks like I have a new battery. The old starter must have eccessive current draw for some time. I took my old starter apart just to see. turns out 2 of the 4 brushes were almost worn out (not properly centered in the hole?) and both bearings were dry (the source of the noise?). Glad it started making noise before it gave out. Two other areas I attended to was the 2 egine grounds. One near the clutch actuator and one near the main relay. Both were removed, cleaned and given a coat of copper anti-sieze. Also, the little pin and spring behind the gear indicator switch was shined up with a scotch brite pad and given a light coat of copper anti-sieze. Not too much, may create a short and false reading. My indicator is almost perfect now. Only once in a while 1-2 bounces back and forth but the rest work perfectly now. I also had a chance to inspect my muffler mod. (2 holes punched in each muffler) Both go straight through. I think the only thing limiting the sound is the inside diameter of the mufflers and the cat. in the head pipe. It was a very productive Sat. and I'm very pleased with the results.
Edited by cjnoho 2013-05-01 9:03 PM
|
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 573
Central Illinois | cjnoho, it sounds like you really didn't need a new starter, you could have done a simple brush change and been ready to go. You would have done the same disassembly to remove the starter but after that the rebuild would have been far cheaper than a replacement.
Edited by Oldman47 2013-05-01 10:41 PM
|
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 1324
So Cal | Unfortunately no one makes repair kits for victory starters. I'm surprized I found an aftermarket supplier for the starter. Vic wants $300. I could see damage to the armature shaft. Considering the labor involved I'd rather replace the whole thing than have to do it again. |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 251
Mechanicsville, VA United States | Nice job cjnoho! |
|
| |
|
Central Wisconsin | cjnoho - 2013-05-01 8:57 PM ..........Two other areas I attended to was the 2 egine grounds. One near the clutch actuator and one near the main relay. Both were removed, cleaned and given a coat of copper anti-sieze. ............ Carl, Good information on your repair. Question; The ground " one near the clutch actuator" would that be a ground by the clutch slave cylinder?
|
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 4278
| For every one stop by hardware store buy some Liquid wrench best stuff ever for exhaust bolts.
When I had H-D's and a bad starter we would go to a auto eclectic shop and have them rebuild them for around 150 bucks. I think you could do the same with a Vic starter.
When you put exhaust back to gather use a lot of anti seize it will not hurt anything |
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | I've used liquid wrench on my exhaust. When I put them back together, I put a good coat of grease on the joints. It smells a little while, but the next time you pull the exhaust they come right apart. Keep in mind, the grease will cook, but it will not cause the pipes to stick unless they are on there a long time. I've pulled my exhause on average about every six months for one reason or another in the past 2 years. |
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 1324
So Cal | Yes, the ground near the slave cylinder. Being in the automotive field. I've seen dirty grounds do some weird stuff. I like to put star washers on them but all I had was scotch brite pad & copper anti-sieze. Should be enough for a good connection. |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 226
on the edge of Los Angeles | cjnoho - 2013-05-01 5:57 PM . I took my old starter apart just to see. turns out 2 of the 4 brushes were almost worn out (not properly centered in the hole?) and both bearings were dry (the source of the noise?). Glad it started making noise before it gave out. GOT THIS NOISE Then this is the fix
CJ, I know we got our bikes about the same time. 2008 I currently have 95k+ and this is the exact same scenario and discovery I had. Started started squaking like a dry bearing. Once I took it apart all the brush material that was not stuck to the magnets was in the tail housing around the rear bearing, The brushes were soon to be all but gone with uneven wear. Failure was soon to follow I am sure.
Real MF'r to get all the pipes off to get out the two bolts for the starter, So at 95 K I will have a new drive belt ( @ 90k) , Rear Shock 94k (Leaking fluid) and Fuel Pump. 95k (Screaming like a squirrel) now starter. Looks like I need to order from DB or whomever cause dealer wants 360+ If you could get the dealer to do this including the starter for under 500.00 I would jump all over that!
|
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 4278
| cjnoho - 2013-04-12 11:02 PM Has anyone replaced their starter on the Vision? Manual says to remove the exhaust system & right leg fairing. Front head pipe looks like it will come loose by it self if I just remove the fairing. Sounds like a noisy bearing. Too much wet weather riding. Oh, DB electrical sells the starter for half the price of OE ,$150 where you live I bet a auto electric shop could up grade it for less with better bearing |
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 1324
So Cal | When I lived in the northwest I found a good way to remove rusty bolts & nuts. First, good soak with WD40. Next, tighten them just a touch. Dosen't have to be much. It stretches the threads and they back right out. |
|
| |
Starter replacement
