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Tough getting into neutral
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southjerseyrider
Posted 2013-06-02 5:12 PM (#139859)
Subject: Tough getting into neutral


Tourer

Posts: 302
Vineland, NJ United States
I've read previous posts about tough to get 08 Vision's in Neutral, but I've got 22,000 miles on mine and it's never been this hard to "find" Neutral.  I use Victory oil (20W-40) and I have about 1,000 miles on tihs oil change.  It feels like when I pull the clutch in it is not fully disengaging, but I see no way to adjust the clutch?  I haven't done anything to the clutch since I bought it new, fluid, bleeding, etc.  Where should I start?
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johnnyvision
Posted 2013-06-02 7:28 PM (#139862 - in reply to #139859)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Visionary

Posts: 4278
when did you change fluid in master cylinder. Fluid is only good for about 4 years.
Pull clutch lever and see how far the clutch arm travels in Ward. It should stop short of the little spring.
Lube each end of your shift linkage your owners manual will tell you wear. Even lube your clutch lever.
No luck you might need new clutch.
Changing oil has nothing to do with getting into gear no mater what any one says thats BS
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southjerseyrider
Posted 2013-06-02 7:39 PM (#139865 - in reply to #139862)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Tourer

Posts: 302
Vineland, NJ United States
Johnnyvision:  I used poor wording in my original post, I have never changed fluid nor done anything to the clutch, it's still the same as day I bought it in 2008.
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Rider44
Posted 2013-06-02 8:27 PM (#139873 - in reply to #139865)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 30
Leighton, IA
southjerseyrider - 2013-06-02 7:39 PM

Johnnyvision:? I used poor wording in my original post, I have never changed fluid nor done anything to the clutch, it's still the same as day I bought it in 2008.


If you haven't done anything to the clutch system, chances are you have built up some gunk in the slave cylinder which is then unable to fully stroke. That could cause it to be unable to completely disengage the clutch making it difficult to find neutral. There should be a bleeder valve on the slave cylinder which has a protective cap on it. Remove the cap and attach a piece of clear plastic hose to the nipple. Make sure the piece of hose is long enough to run it into a receptacle large enough to hold the old brake fluid that you will pump through the clutch system. DON'T spill ANY brake fluid on painted surfaces. It WILL DAMAGE the paint.

I'm assuming you know how to bleed a brake system so I won't go into those details. If you don't know how to accomplish this, stop right now and bring it to your dealer for a clutch system flushing and lubrication of the levers and pivots including inspection and greasing of the pull rod connector.

Also, there may be more to it than just flushing the clutch system. You could have a worn clutch or some other problems. The simplest would be to flush the system yourself if capable and top off the reservoir. If the problem is still there more digging has to be done which I prefer to leave to a capable Vic mechanic.

Hope this helps.
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varyder
Posted 2013-06-02 9:13 PM (#139875 - in reply to #139859)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Visionary

Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA
Change your clutch fluid. Yes, it does get "notchy" toward the end of life on your oil, but flush and change your clutch fluid and life should be back to normal.
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BrandonM7
Posted 2013-06-04 9:14 AM (#139936 - in reply to #139875)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Cruiser

Posts: 178
LaGrange, GA
varyder - 2013-06-02 10:13 PM

Change your clutch fluid. Yes, it does get "notchy" toward the end of life on your oil, but flush and change your clutch fluid and life should be back to normal.



Are you still on your original clutch?
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southjerseyrider
Posted 2013-06-04 9:18 AM (#139937 - in reply to #139936)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Tourer

Posts: 302
Vineland, NJ United States

yes, original clutch fluid because manual says change at 30,000 and I only have 22,000.

 Also, a Victory Mechanic told me to try switching from Vic oil to full syn and see if that makes a difference (no, I'm not trying to start an oil thread).

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rdbudd
Posted 2013-06-04 10:51 AM (#139939 - in reply to #139937)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Visionary

Posts: 1631
Jasper, MO
southjerseyrider - 2013-06-04 9:18 AM

Also, a Victory Mechanic told me to try switching from Vic oil to full syn and see if that makes a difference (no, I'm not trying to start an oil thread).



It made a marked difference on both my bikes. Be advised that not all "synthetic" oils are equal or give the same results.

It wouldn't hurt to change your clutch fluid due to the age.

Ronnie
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varyder
Posted 2013-06-04 1:12 PM (#139946 - in reply to #139936)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Visionary

Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA

BrandonM7 - 2013-06-04 10:14 AM varyder - 2013-06-02 10:13 PM Change your clutch fluid. Yes, it does get "notchy" toward the end of life on your oil, but flush and change your clutch fluid and life should be back to normal. Are you still on your original clutch?

 Yes

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southjerseyrider
Posted 2013-06-05 7:18 AM (#139976 - in reply to #139939)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Tourer

Posts: 302
Vineland, NJ United States
I drained Vic oil and replaced it with Mobil 1 Syn V-Twin 20W-50.  Then I rode about 100 miles, there is a noticeable improvement.  Also, giving a little throttle when shifting to neutral helped.   I am still going to get my clutch fluid replaced as soon as I get bike into dealer.  Thanks for all your help.
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BrandonM7
Posted 2013-06-05 9:01 AM (#139982 - in reply to #139946)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Cruiser

Posts: 178
LaGrange, GA
varyder - 2013-06-04 2:12 PM

BrandonM7 - 2013-06-04 10:14 AM varyder - 2013-06-02 10:13 PM Change your clutch fluid. Yes, it does get "notchy" toward the end of life on your oil, but flush and change your clutch fluid and life should be back to normal. Are you still on your original clutch?

?Yes




That's seriously awesome.
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varyder
Posted 2013-06-05 2:06 PM (#140000 - in reply to #139859)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Visionary

Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA
I know it's worn, and I was using a full synthetic. I was feeling a slippage around 110,000 miles, bleed the clutch out. Still slipping. I changed back to a semi-syn and the slippage went away, for now. I'll be at 140,000 before I get home after work today. Yes, me thinks that is awesome also.
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baadawg
Posted 2013-06-05 5:15 PM (#140009 - in reply to #139859)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Tourer

Posts: 499
Chattanooga, TN
My clutch did the same thing, started having trouble shifting as well. Local dealer said my clutch was too grabby. Solution was to change it out. This has helped my 08 immensely. I used the Barnett clutch found on Lloydz website. It's like new now. But I sincerely hope you don't need to do that. If changing the clutch fluid does the trick for you, it's much cheaper! Just a thought though if it doesn't improve from other methods.
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g1nomad
Posted 2013-06-07 10:47 AM (#140080 - in reply to #139859)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Tourer

Posts: 562
SC, Bluffton
I am still on my original clutch fluid from November of 2007. I couldn't find neutral very easily then,
and I can't find it easily now. No loss in performance LOL.

My Kaw is on the original as well from December 2005. Yikes! It goes into neutral like butter, but it
is Japanese. Just the nature of the Beasts.
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dogfish73
Posted 2013-06-07 11:02 AM (#140082 - in reply to #139859)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 8
I wasn't having so much problem finding neutral as I was just shifting in general. Tried oil, that didn't help. I swapped the slave cylinder and that has made a marked improvement. I think the design of the slave cylinder in the Vics is really a weak point. Those things are pretty fragile. Would have liked to see a more integrated solution, but since the mill was designed to operate with a cable...

It could be this, or the clutch itself in my opinion. Hopefully not a tranny issue.
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wingit3611
Posted 2013-06-07 12:35 PM (#140085 - in reply to #140000)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Cruiser

Posts: 244

varyder - 2013-06-05 3:06 PM I know it's worn, and I was using a full synthetic. I was feeling a slippage around 110,000 miles, bleed the clutch out. Still slipping. I changed back to a semi-syn and the slippage went away, for now. I'll be at 140,000 before I get home after work today. Yes, me thinks that is awesome also.

Chris what brand of synthetic were you using. This slippage with synthetic happens on Burgman 650's & going back to Dino oil corrects it.

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baadawg
Posted 2013-06-07 4:38 PM (#140092 - in reply to #139859)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Tourer

Posts: 499
Chattanooga, TN
He was using Rotella full synthetic, don't know what weight though.
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varyder
Posted 2013-06-07 5:03 PM (#140094 - in reply to #139859)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Visionary

Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA
I was using Rotella, never remember if it was T5 or T6, but it was JASO MA Rated at 5w40. Not knocking the oil, but apparently it didn't go well with the way I ride.
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wingit3611
Posted 2016-02-20 10:05 AM (#178943 - in reply to #139859)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Cruiser

Posts: 244
Not sure why this showed up this morning but I will add my two cents on finding Neutral. Bring the RPM up to 15 or 18 K and it slip in to neutral like you have a neutral finder on it. Also I just changed oil to Rorella T5 15W-40 Semithinsetic & it slips in to neutral at idle just fine till the oil get over 200 degree.Also the engine is quieter, much quiter. Will see how long that last. The oil I had in there must have been really bad. Not sure what it was, need to stay away from it. Think I 'll stay with T5 15-40 Semi, it's close to Victory oil and a lot cheaper. 13.95 a Gal. on sale at O;Rileys
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IndyVision
Posted 2016-02-20 3:51 PM (#178948 - in reply to #139859)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Tourer

Posts: 400
I had problems with my 08 and traded it in for an 11.
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2016-02-21 7:23 AM (#178949 - in reply to #139976)
Subject: Re: Tough getting into neutral


Visionary

Posts: 3772
Pittsburgh, PA
southjerseyrider - 2013-06-05 7:18 AM

I drained Vic oil and replaced it with Mobil 1 Syn V-Twin 20W-50.? Then I rode about 100 miles, there is a noticeable improvement.? Also, giving a little throttle when shifting to neutral helped.?? I am still going to get my clutch fluid replaced as soon as I get bike into dealer.? Thanks for all your help.


I see where you live, there is no need to use 20w50, especially since it's spec'd for w40. It won't hurt it at all, but it surely won't provide you with any benefits either.. and actually if your a cold weather rider, I have noticed when I had my 08, that the lifters we're noises on a cold start with 20w50 than when I used 10w40 (not- 20w40 ) would take longer to quiet down.

You wanna talk buttery smooth... my god, I got as a gift 10w40 REDLINE motorcycle oil..... holy cow poop batman !!! This is super smooth! Had it in the motor for 1500 miles so far.? Would I buy it again.. doubtful... it's hard to find, and NOT CHEAP.. it's considered what they call a Boutique oil. I'll probably just go back to amsoil when it's time. I can get that at my local Napa dealer for $10 a qt and Ivery ran that Stuff in every motorcycle I have owned for many many many years...
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