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Cruiser
Posts: 92
Moncks Corner, SC United States | For anyone thinking of installing the adjustable timing wheel on anything. A word of warning. Do not assume the 2 smaller adjustment bolts are tight from the factory. I installed the wheel about 5 or 6 weeks ago and was amazed at the increase in performance. But due to the weather and work was only able to get out and ride a couple of times after the install. Going to work one night, I noticed a very loud engine knock. I got the bike home and let it sit for a day or two before starting it up to troubleshoot. Now it was even worse than before. I decided to pull the timing wheel back out and installing the original before taking the bike up to my local dealer for thier opinion. When I removed the cover plate I found both of the adjusment bolts had backed out about 1/4 inch and the wheel was just sloppy loose in all directions. Cleaned the threads of oil and added some locktight and retorqued. Good as new, and hopefully no long term damage done. |
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Tourer
Posts: 499
Chattanooga, TN | Good to know. Sorry to hear about the trouble though. |
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Tourer
Posts: 573
Central Illinois | I guess I can be happy that I decided not to accept the preset 4 degrees. I know darned well I tightened mine after the adjustment I made. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 19
Town creek, AL United States | are these really worth the money to replace.just curious |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | bigdf150 - 2013-12-23 6:11 PM
are these really worth the money to replace.just curious
Apparently. I've not seen a negative review of it; to date.
I believe that there's one under the Christmas tree right now for me :-) |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| bigdf150 - 2013-12-23 5:11 PM are these really worth the money to replace.just curious yes you will not believe how much it improves your bike. Make sure you get the gasket. Its the only part you can put on your bike and feel by the seat of your pants how much better your bike runs. Start at +4 and after a few 100 mile move it to plus+6 and see if you feel more power |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 19
Town creek, AL United States | do you have to do any remapping so it doesnt get to lean.and also bike is still under warranty will this affect it.
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Iron Butt
Posts: 691
Manchester, CT | no remapping required. like with any mods to the engine, the dealer has to prove that any issue that arises is directly due to the modification. |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| bigdf150 - 2013-12-23 6:37 PM do you have to do any remapping so it doesn't get to lean.and also bike is still under warranty will this affect it. yes it should get leaner on some motors. So track your mileage now and them when you put wheel in check your mileage. you get above 45mpg thats lean. Just un hook your 02's and it will richen it up by about 3 mpg. Of coarse you have to listen for pinging or motor knock. I doughty you will have any problems and if you did pull wheel and put stock one back in. |
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Tourer
Posts: 576
, IA | I read u need to run 91 gas |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Well, Ms Klaus presented a Lloydz timing wheel this a.m. along with a gasket. Now to get this thing installed; as soon as the temps arise a little. I don't ride below freezing... |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| sonicbluerider - 2013-12-25 11:32 AM I read u need to run 91 gas It all depends if your riding on flat land you can get by being cheap. If your in hill country yes 91 would be best. |
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Tourer
Posts: 573
Central Illinois | I have been using 89 octane in my bike since August and never experienced any ping or knock, not even under a heavy load. I have my timing wheel set at 3 degrees, a bit less than the preset. It woke up my engine without any impact on fuel grade required that I can see. The only reason I don't run 87 octane yet is because I wanted to make darned sure there are no issues at 89. There are 2 possible issues where a higher octane might help. The first is an early spark causing cylinder pressure to rise too fast and produce a ping. The other is detonation caused by ignition in advance of the spark, the pre-ignition condition. That one has absolutely nothing to do with spark timing since by definition it is ignition before the spark happens. It is caused by compression causing ignition at a hot spot in your cylinder much like the way a diesel runs using the hot glow plug. Octane changes can definitely affect the likelihood of that happening since octane ratings are all about how easy it is to cause rapid combustion. It is far more prevalent in high compression, 11+, engines. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | That's good info you posted above there Oldman47. Thanks! |
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New user
Posts: 2
, IL United States | Let me start by saying my dealer is the BEST.
Words to live by "Do not assume the 2 smaller adjustment bolts are tight from the factory."
Long story short.
My dealer did the install of the adjustable timing wheel. I rode about 40 miles I got a ping, then a knock last the bike died.
I could not fire it back up.
I called the dealer and the bike was towed. They pulled the cover and found the timing wheel had one loose bolt and one has fallen out. The timing had jumped.
They replaced the bolts and the bike now has had a LOUD knock. Dealer calls me with an update they ask if they can tear it down it investigate? I say YES?
They tell me the front cylinder, cylinder wall and head has been damaged.
Later that day my dealer drops off a loaner 2013 CCT to my front door 47 miles away from his shop.
Within the next 3 weeks he rebuilds my motor and my bike runs great it's smoother than ever.
We are all happy now?
Edited by HDogg 2013-12-26 7:49 AM
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Tourer
Posts: 324
New Orleans, La, | I have read many post touting the dramatic increased performance after installing the timinig wheel on a stock motored bikes and I am intrigued. I would like to hear the impressions of owners of modified motored bikes. I currently have installed a VFC3, top filter 1st edition, Lloydz hacked ECM, 1st edition cams, and S1Ls exhaust. I look forward to the targeted owners response. Thanx. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 691
Manchester, CT | I have a very similar setup except I have the PCV and witchdoctor vooddoo exhaust. Before the timing wheel, low end torque was missing compared to 3000 rpm on up. At 3000 rpm, I compare it to a car with a 4 barrel when the additional 2 barrels kick in. I regained the torque below 3000 after installing the timing wheel. The other HUGE difference in performance came after Kyle at KMC Powersports, dyno tuned my bike. My gas mileage went down but my thrill/fun meter pinned the needle! |
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Tourer
Posts: 494
Akron Ohio area | johnnyvision - 2013-12-25 7:05 PM sonicbluerider - 2013-12-25 11:32 AM I read u need to run 91 gas It all depends if your riding on flat land you can get by being cheap. If your in hill country yes 91 would be best. Actually, the closer you are to Sea Level, the more octane you need. The next time you visit the mountains, notice that they sell 85 octane there. Vehicles that need 87 octane in most parts of our country can get by on 85 octane at higher elevations. In fact, it's hard to find 91 or higher octane once you're over 7,000 feet in elevation. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | So can I pop off the timing cover with the bike on the sidestand; or do I need to put it on the tip overs; so no oil drains out? |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| willtill - 2013-12-26 2:44 PM So can I pop off the timing cover with the bike on the sidestand; or do I need to put it on the tip overs; so no oil drains out? On side stand is just fine. Put a towel over pipes so not to scratch them and put rag in dip stick hole so nothing falls in. |
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Tourer
Posts: 430
| I had the timing wheel installed on my bike about 4 months - 2k miles ago. what a positive difference. Besides the lower end waking up I noticed about a 90% decrease in popping on decel. The product is well worth the $ - thanks Lloyd  |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Well. I installed my Lloydz timing wheel yesterday; following guidance from this board (Johnnyvision, et al.) Couple of observations during the install:
1. The timing wheel bolt was very difficult to remove from the shaft initially. There were a couple of moments where I thought the threads were "stripping out" due to the felt resistance. I ran the bolt back in periodically until I finally was able to remove it. Cause? A huge amount of factory applied threadlocker.
2. Remove the OEM timing wheel itself after the bolt was removed. The timing wheel seemingly did not want to budge off of the shaft. Started gently prying around it and realized that all you really needed to do was wiggle it from all angles repetitively and tenaciously; and eventually it started to slide off with microscopic movement detected.
3. OEM gasket did tear in two places; glad I had a replacement gasket available from Lloydz as well.
4. Did use blue Locktite on the two adjustment bolts on the Lloydz timing wheel as well; I think that should be remarked since bad things will happen if that adjustment wheel starts "self adjusting on it's own, if those bolts ever came loose.
Haven't been able to take it out yet due to all of the salt on the roads around here. But we have rain today; hopefully it'll be enough to wash the salt away; and I can see what gains in power that I have.
Edited by willtill 2014-02-03 5:57 AM
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| You have just spent your money the right way.
I have read where one guy had nothing but problem pinching the pick up wire so bad he need a new one. Of coarse he did say him and his buddy had been drinking. Another guy tried taking the timing bolt out by going the wrong way and snapped it off. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 92
Moncks Corner, SC United States | You will not be disappointed. Make a note of how fast you hit the rev limiter. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 50
Virginia Beach, VA | Timing wheel is the only mod I've done so far. Works as advertised. 1800-2800 rpm area is quick. But, as Willtill stated, be careful with the shaft bolt. I was worried that it may snap. I did the same, worked it back on and off, giving it a little break in between, to let it cool off. I've had bolts like that snap off and was very concerned with this. I used lock tite (red), just a small dab on all three bolts on the wheel and also on the floor board bolts. Torqued everything as recommended. If you don't do anything else, do this. |
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Adjustable timing wheel
