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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 12
| Tribal Knowledge - Vision Rear LED connections
Two years ago I built some LED rear lights for my Victory Vision and they work great, I get lots of comments and compliments.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPFYl3ka2cg&feature=gp-n-y&google_co...
(I?ve tweaked the firmware a bit to adjust some of the rates.) Other than considering designing a commercially manufacturable version if I ever take the time, quite a few folks have asked me questions about issues on their LED installs. I thought I?d post this to help anyone who needs it.
When installing LED lights in the Victory Vision there are two issues - turn signal flash rate and lack of cruise control.
Flash Rate -
The Vision flasher controller uses some old-school circuitry that relies on the lamp load to control the flash rate. The advantage of this is that when a turn lamp burns out the casual rider notices a fast flash and asks someone about it. When you install an LED module the appropriate load is not present therefore it flashes too fast.
To restore your flash rate you need to add a load resistor. The math -
- Incandescent flash lamp = 27w = approx. 2A current = approx. 6 to 8 ohm resistor. You can use as high as 15ohm if a faster flash rate is acceptable.
- Minimum 50w resistor rating, the power dissipation will destroy anything of lesser wattage.
- Resistor will get HOT when turn signal is on, mount it appropriately.
Connection -
I?ve found for many folks they remove a bunch of wiring when installing LEDs because they no longer need it so you may need to dig back in and locate. The flasher filament on each side is in the top lamp, the Blue/Red wire. Connect the power resistor between the Blue/Red wire and ground so when the flasher controller puts voltage on that line the resistor pulls some current. Many power resistors have mounting tabs. You?ll need two power resistors, one for each side.
Cruise Control -
The cruise control has a logic input that is weakly pulled up by the bike's logic. This is then pulled down by the low resistance of the brake lamp when the lamp is attached, not engaged, and not burned out; if it?s burned out or removed for LEDs then the resultant pull-up causes the cruise to stop working. The reason for this is it?s the ?brake-on? sensor into the cruise control that turns off the cruise when the brakes are engaged. Not sure why they didn?t use the CAN bus, but that?s an engineer?s decision.
To restore the cruise function that line needs to be pulled down with a value that?s low enough to bring the logic pull-up low. Originally I tested to determine the logic threshold level, then decreased the resistance value by a factor of five to guarantee a low level. The math -
- I used a value of 270 ohms, it can be higher. After I explained to one guy what to do, he had a 1k laying around and said it worked, I preferred lower.
- for 270ohm - Power = E(sq)/R = 225/270 = approx. 0.85w, use at least a 2 watt for heat dissipation.
- for 560ohm - Power = E(sq)/R = 225/560 = approx 0.4w, use at least a 1 watt for heat dissipation.
It will only be dissipating significant power when the brake lights are on, the rest of the time it pulls the logic low dissipating very little.
Connection -
The brake lamp is the White/Pink wire on each side. If you use a higher resistance value then one per side, if you use a resistor closer to the 270 ohm value then one will work; those lamps are paralleled. Connect the resistor between the White/Pink wire and ground.
I hope this helps the tribal knowledge, keep riding.
Hugh |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 752
Broken Arrow, OK | I might not have tackled this on my own until now. Still might never do it, but if I do, you gave us some valuable information. Thank you, Hugh. |
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Tribal Knowledge - Vision Rear LED connections
