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Electrical Upgrade
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Gerica
Posted 2009-01-11 4:01 PM (#26509)
Subject: Electrical Upgrade


Cruiser

Posts: 251

I am in the process of buy an 09 premium tourer. I asked about getting the upgrade to 65 amps on the electrical system, however, I was told that this is discontinued.

Does anyone know why? What would I need to do it on my own? Or if the dealer would od it?

Thanks

Gerry

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TimS
Posted 2009-01-11 6:52 PM (#26519 - in reply to #26509)
Subject: RE: Electrical Upgrade


Iron Butt

Posts: 810

I have been trying to get that part for over a year not and have been it was never made.  Since it was never made, the part still made its way into the 2009 catalog which makes me wonder what is going on.

Tim 

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KansasGuardsman
Posted 2009-01-11 9:38 PM (#26529 - in reply to #26509)
Subject: Re: Electrical Upgrade


Cruiser

Posts: 208
Wichita, Kansas
The next best thing to an upgraded alternator is to switch to LED lights all around and that will cut a lot of load. According to the service manual wiring diagram the 10 running lights (6 rear, 4 front) draw 9 watts each for a total of 90 watts, or about 7 1/2 amps. Going all LED would drop that to about 1/2 amp total. A real help, especially at low speed.
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TimS
Posted 2009-01-11 11:32 PM (#26532 - in reply to #26529)
Subject: Re: Electrical Upgrade


Iron Butt

Posts: 810

Will LEDs screw up the turn singal controllers? 

If so, you need to put on a load equalizer that puts the current draw right back to where it was.  I haven't tried it yet, so I don't know if the Vision requires the load equalizer.

Thanks,

Tim

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KansasGuardsman
Posted 2009-01-12 10:04 PM (#26570 - in reply to #26509)
Subject: Re: Electrical Upgrade


Cruiser

Posts: 208
Wichita, Kansas
Depends on your definition of "screw up." It will make them blink about twice as fast. But with LED's, that makes them more noticeable since there is no lag like with light bulbs. Putting in the resistor will negate the current savings on the turn signal, but it is not required for them to work. Everything still works. You could still save a lot by doing only the brakes and front running light and still save about 54 watts (4 1/2 amps). Personally, I like it, it reduces the load on my alternator, and I have done it on all my bikes. Personal preference maybe.
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TimS
Posted 2009-01-12 10:15 PM (#26571 - in reply to #26570)
Subject: Re: Electrical Upgrade


Iron Butt

Posts: 810

Chuck,

Thanks.  It is good to hear that you have already done this.  I have heard that some blinker controllers don't like LEDs.

4.5 amps is good a good win, enough for heated jacket.

Sincerely,

Tim

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TimS
Posted 2009-01-12 11:00 PM (#26577 - in reply to #26570)
Subject: Re: Electrical Upgrade


Iron Butt

Posts: 810

Chuck,

Have you seen or used any of these?

http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/6472883/vpcsid/0/SFV/32481#

Thanks,

Tim

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KansasGuardsman
Posted 2009-01-13 12:59 PM (#26601 - in reply to #26509)
Subject: Re: Electrical Upgrade


Cruiser

Posts: 208
Wichita, Kansas
Thanks Tim. WOW. Those are a great idea. A little pricey, since we would need 5 pairs though. But they look like the best thing since canned beer! I just used the ones on Ebay with the highest count I could find. I think they were 62 LED. Similar to the ones you show without the wings and about $16 a set.

I think these might be good as a single set placed in the middle fender bulbs to make nice bright, higher brake lights. And yes I know the middles are supposed to go out when you hit the turn signals - mine don't, since I would rather the cagers see my brakes than not notice me until my turn signal has flashed twice. They can figure out that the turn signal is flashing AFTER they see my brake lights and slow down to keep from hitting me! I put the mod on the center tail lights when I installed the LED's. (I'll post that in tech when I get time to write it up.) Right now I'm try to figure out how to use the top/turn lights as brake lights also.

The turn signal controller on the Vision is a separate module (no car type flasher relay). When you install LED's it just goes into fast flash because it thinks it sees a burned out bulb. With LED's, it all still works but the turn signal flashes twice as fast, but it is a good, clear on/off flash that draws attention faster than the one time per second you get with a bulb. I like the faster rate - the cagers see flashing sooner.
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Arkainzeye
Posted 2009-01-13 7:49 PM (#26626 - in reply to #26509)
Subject: Re: Electrical Upgrade


Visionary

Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA
Is our charging system near the max of what it can do? And thats why its good to go to all LED lights? The reason i ask is, i "thought" but could be wrong that i read a review for the vision and they said our charging system left more than enough room for adding accessories like heated clothing.. I was just wondering if this is Not true...
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sonicbluerider
Posted 2009-01-13 7:53 PM (#26628 - in reply to #26509)
Subject: Re: Electrical Upgrade


Tourer

Posts: 576
, IA
hope so cause i use the heated gripes heated seat heated coat and heat gloves plus xm radio with garmin and nerve notice and trouble
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KansasGuardsman
Posted 2009-01-13 10:22 PM (#26636 - in reply to #26509)
Subject: Re: Electrical Upgrade


Cruiser

Posts: 208
Wichita, Kansas
When designing electrical systems for aircraft, we try not to exceed a steady state load of 75-80%. To do so begins to affect reliability. While your load depends on what you have running, on my bike, I run 2 headlights on dim (55W ea = 110 Watts), 10 running lights (90 W), 2 fog Lights (35W ea = 70W), HID light (guess at 50 W), heated grips on hi (40W). This comes to 360 watts or about 30 amps of continuous normal draw. We have 45 Amp alternators. That's almost 70% of capacity. I chose to reduce this by 7 Amps using LEDs.

Does this mean my alternator will never fail. No.
Does it mean yours will surely fail. No.
Does it mean you could be into the area of statistically reduced reliability, depending on your electrical load. Yes.
Could you ride forever and not have a problem. Certainly.

I would just rather bet on rolling a 6 than a four. Better odds, that's all. (And, as I said, I like the faster flash rate. Just personal opinion and preference.)
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rdbudd
Posted 2009-01-13 10:46 PM (#26637 - in reply to #26636)
Subject: Re: Electrical Upgrade


Visionary

Posts: 1632
Jasper, MO
Chuck, your points about not overloading any electrical system are valid, but my book says the alternator is not a 45 amp, but is a 50 amp unit, and the HID draws 35 watts instead of 50 watts. I run heated grips, heated seats, and two 100 watt heated jackets with no problem. I like your idea of changing the running lights to LEDs. When I get time, I'm planning on adding an LED strip to the rear of my trunk as a high-mounted brake light.

Ronnie
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KansasGuardsman
Posted 2009-01-14 1:44 AM (#26641 - in reply to #26509)
Subject: Re: Electrical Upgrade


Cruiser

Posts: 208
Wichita, Kansas
Done that, kinda. I got a light bar called a Stopper off Ebay for about $25 shipped. Two bolts hold it to the top of the license plate. Had to drill out the plate holder for the two bolts and one for the wires in between. Hooked it to a brake wire and the license plate ground inside the rear fender. Put a connector on the wires inside the fender since the plate bracket has to come off to get the fender off and it will just hang otherwise. Works great. Very bright. Helps wake up the cagers.
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rmclarty
Posted 2009-01-16 2:42 PM (#26831 - in reply to #26509)
Subject: Re: Electrical Upgrade


Cruiser

Posts: 261
Sugar Land, TX (Outside of Houston)
Those V-Star Modules made me chuckle. The Arms fold in so you can squeeze the bubls through the small hole in your light housing. Then they seem to spring open.

So ... Curious Me wonders how you would ever get them out of the housing should somethign happen to them?

OK - So I am bored

Edited by rmclarty 2009-01-16 2:42 PM
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