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Cruiser
Posts: 88
Lavon, TX | Finally got my bike on the dyno. What an outstanding verification of the handiwork performed by KevinX.
(bike_dyno.JPG)
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 bike_dyno.JPG (72KB - 5 downloads)
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Visionary
Posts: 3204
Memphis | I see in your signature that you have full led with sequential turn signals. Any insights on how you did that and what all was involved, including cost? |
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Cruiser
Posts: 88
Lavon, TX | I am working on a how-to set of instructions; I took lots of pics during my install.
It is NOT for the faint of heart - basically, you have to re-wire the signal/brakes (including adding a signal feed to the inner front sockets).
The Vision has qty10 3157 (two front and three back per side) main signal/turn bulbs, along with qty3 194 bulbs (two in the trunk and a license lamp). It is factory wired such that, for the front, only the outer bulbs are used for signalling, and, for the back, only the top bulb is used for signalling and the bottom bulb is used for braking. The middle bulb will turn off if you are signalling; otherwise, it is an additional brake lamp.
For LEDs, I purchased from eBay qty5 pair of V-LEDS HID WHITE 60 M-SMT GM DRL BULBS 3157 3156 VS, at $50/pair. These have qty60 surface mount high intensity leds, and are specifically designed to handle fluctuating and spiking voltage.
I purchased qty2 pair of V-LEDS WHITE 194 13 LED LIGHT BULBS 158 168 2825 VS, at $15/pair - one for the license lamp and two for the trunk. I added the Kuryakyn 4710 controller mod ($63), along with its included Kuryakyn 4810 load equalizer.
I added qty5 per side wide-angle red LEDs on the outer edges of my mirrors (whilst I was in that vicinity) for $12 from eBay.
I also bought an LED conversion kit for my BushTec trailer, from BushTec for $99.
For sequencing controllers, I purchased directly from www.webelectricproducts.com item STS-2S for the front (two lamp sequencing) for $49 and item STS-1M5 for the back (three lamp sequencing) for $80.
On the front, move the turn signal feed wire from the outer socket to the inner socket. The red wire of the STS-2S controller is tapped off of the turn signal wire. The black wire of the controller taps off of the ground wire. The white wire of the controller is run to the signal location of the outer socket. Repeat for other side.
The back gets more complicated. On the left side, cut the blue signal wire near the upper socket and add a diode to the signal feed. The socket side of the blue wire is connected to the blue wire of the STS-1M5 controller. Cut the white wire of the middle socket; the socket side is connected to the white wire of the controller. Cut the black/orange grounding wire of the middle socket; the socket side is connected to the ground wire of the bottom socket, along with the black wire of the controller. Splice into the white/red wire, just past the bike's diode, the blue signal wire (with its diode) and the red wire of the controller. In this manner, either the brake or the signal can feed the red wire of the controller - and each has a diode to block any backfeed. Do the same for the other side.
I now have dual sequential front turn signals (along with mirror blinkers), triple sequential (from bottom to top) rear turn signals, and three per side brake lights (as well as turn/brake/tail lights for the trunk).
Outstanding issues:
1) I need to buy another Kuryakyn 4810 load equalizer ($16) in order to slow my blinker sequencing rate some more (the LEDs have virtually no amperage draw on the bike's electrical system).
2) The triple brake light overrides the sequencing blinkers. I am going to take the diode brake feed from each side and run these back through the bike's two relays (the ones that controlled the middle lamps), in order to cancel the brake feed for a given side if its associated signal is also on. This will require separating the relay outputs and bringing an additional wire to the back of the bike - but all of the hardware is already mounted on the bike.
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Cruiser
Posts: 146
| Very nice Chris.....where did you have your dyno conducted?? I have been wanting to have mine done as well...just haven't had the time. I did just get back last night from a 3 day 1,500 mile motor trip to "Big Bend". Went with a bunch of wingers and they were all either in awe of the bike or in shock because they kept coming over to look - touch. Had a great time and the bike handled flawlessly. Fantastic mod KevinX!!!
PS...I may come over some time and humbly request your assistance with installing full LED lighting with sequential blinkers on my bike... |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 725
Reno County, KS | Nice consistent curve results. Looks like you got good results. How do they know what the A/F ratio is? Did they plug into the ECU when they did this? |
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Visionary
Posts: 1340
Gainesville Fl Home of the Gators | bigwill5150 - 2009-11-11 7:22 AM
Nice consistent curve results. Looks like you got good results. How do they know what the A/F ratio is? Did they plug into the ECU when they did this?
A/F is measured with a probe in the pipe |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 725
Reno County, KS | kevinx - 2009-11-11 5:28 AM
A/F is measured with a probe in the pipe
Ahhh I see. I was wondering if it was a calculated guesstimate or the real deal. I need to find a dyno and make some pulls to see what my bike is doing. |
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Dallas cam party dyno results!!
