Paul-

Tons of good info in the tech section at this site http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/tech.html

And here is a paste of an email I had with Mr. Stern last Sept.......


    Ok....another confused consumer here.

    I have a 2008 Victory Vision motorcycle and I'm currently using Sylvania Silverstar H4 bulbs. Two issues....they don't really perform too much better than the stock bulbs, and they only last about six months


They don't even perform up to the level of a stock bulb. Any of the blue-glass "extra white" bulbs is a nonstarter as
far as seeing better is concerned. Sylvania Silverstar/Ultra, PIAA, Hoen,
BlueVision, CrystalVision, TruView, Nokya, Polarg, etc. -- all the same racket. They produce _less_ light than ordinary bulbs and have a very short life due to the light blocked by the blue glass. All it does is change the beam color, which doesn't help anything (except arbitrary appearance fashion/style).

For reference, here's manufacturer data for output and lifespan at 13.2v for standard-wattage H1 bulbs. The numbers here are a composite of values applicable to the products of the big three makers (Osram-Sylvania, Philips-Narva, Tungsram-GE). Each manufacturer's product in each category is slightly different but not significantly so. I picked H1-type bulbs for this comparison, and while the absolute numbers differ with different bulb types, the relative comparison patterns hold good for whatever bulb type we consider (H4, 9006, whatever). Lifespan is given as Tc, the hour figure at which 63.2 percent of the bulbs have failed.

H1 (regular normal):

1550 lumens, 650 hours

Long Life (or "HalogenPlus+"

1460 lumens, 1200 hours

Ultra Long Life (or "DayLight"

1430 lumens, 3000 hours

Plus-30 High Efficacy (CPI BrightLight, Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower, Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium):

1700 lumens, 350 hours

Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (CPI Super Bright Light, Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar):

1750 lumens, 350 hours

Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker):

1780 lumens, 340 hours

Blue coated 'extra white' (CPI Bright Light Blue, Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra, also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc):

1380 lumens, 250 hours

So that's the pattern for how lifespan and light output are related. It's worth noting that the lumen differences are not the extent of the performance differences. The filament changes required to make a long-life bulb tend to reduce the beam focus, which shortens seeing distance. And, the light color is less white and more brown. But lifespan is lengthened. The opposite filament changes are made to create the "Plus" (+30, +50, +80, +90) type bulbs: Lifespan is reduced, but the beam focus is better so seeing distance is longer. Light color is whiter and less brown. The takeaway message here is that even if all the filaments put out exactly the same amount of light — the same lumens from a long life, a +30, a +50, a regular, an ultralong-life, etc. — the headlamp performance and appearance with the long-life bulb would still be inferior compared to the same headlamp performance and appearance with a regular, or +30, or +50, or +80 bulb.

A relative has strongly recommended purchasing Narva brand bulbs. And of course he recommended to purchase them only from you. So...here I am.

A bit about my riding commute:: 80% deserted country roads and about 40% dusk/night

I'm pretty sure it appears that I want to go with the 100/90W Narva bulbs.

I bought the PIAA's for the Anti-vibration feature most of all.  (Don't just get XTreme white.  Make sure they are Anti-Vibration.)  Thicker quartz glass and a heavier duty element.  Nice, pure white color, 4000k (no blue at all).  Stock wattage.  Retail for $90/pair but can be found for under $80/pair with a search.

I was happy that the stock bulbs lasted 3 years and nearly 50,000 miles but I wanted something whiter to go along with the HID.  If these high-dollar PIAA's last three year I'll be happy.

Only white bulbs I would not recommend personally are the Sylvania SilverStars.  The look great while they last but are notorious for burning out very quickly in cars and trucks.  On a vibrating v-twin, they could easily go out in a month.

"You want me to buy the PIAA....XTreme White (in 4000K) but only with Anti-Vibration in the stock wattage."

Paul, you got it.  PIAA 70856 (This is the part # for a pair.  You can google it to find the best deal.)

My guys at FRS Powersports changed them out for me and their very first question was "Are these stock wattage?"  I showed them the package, "Yep."  Anything running hotter than stock is asking for trouble if you end up having wiring or headlight housing issues (hairline cracks) later on.

Just be careful when you order.  If you see them for around $50, it is either a single anti-vibration bulb or a dual pack of regular Xtreme white bulbs (they won't be anti-vibration).  A pair of anti-vibration bulbs will cost $75-80.  I found one place selling singles for $29.99 but when I got to their shipping costs, it added $14.95 which comes out to $90/pair.

I've had lots of comments from people that I pass coming into work and they mention how well lit up my bike is.  The PIAAs along with the Clearwaters are pretty nice.

jstbcause34 - 2011-06-06 7:44 AM I am new to the forum and to Vision ownership. Took two years to get the one I wanted. Was wondering if there would be a problem replacing the driving HS1 35/35 light bulb with a Standard or Motovision H4 55/65 since they are backward plug compatible. Just want to make sure there wont be too much electrical draw or heat in the housing.

jst'  Welcome to forum and thanks for jumping in on the conversation. I agree with the previous post that it is risky. I know folks like to get as much light as possible out there to see and especially be seen. I also know that some are getting by with these type of modifications, but for the little bit you will gain you will curse yourself all the way to the repair shop and again to the bank if you experience a catastrophic electrical failure out on the road. Remember you will void your warranty if you change to a higher wattage bulb and it causes a failure. They will work on our systems but the wires may run just hot enough to cause a slow but sure deterioration of the insulation.

At this point I have to wonder why you want to up the wattage of your headlights? They are by far one of if not the brightest motorcycle headlights available stock on a touring bike today. I almost never use my brights because frankly I never need them. I even get flashed occasionally by oncoming cars because they must think I have my brights on. When I flash'em back they get my message quickly. Do check your headlight aim, it may be that they are aimed down at the ground and you just aren't benefiting from the outstanding design of your headlights. Good luck and safe riding!